Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Plastic workable tracks with molded in pins - tips

10 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    December, 2017
Plastic workable tracks with molded in pins - tips
Posted by KyleBragger on Wednesday, September 19, 2018 2:18 PM

Anyone have any useful tips on assembling plastic workable tracks with molded in pins (e.g. like some MiniArt varieties:


The pins in these types of tracks seem long enough where it doesn't seem like you can flex the tracks to connect two links without crushing one or both pins... 

  • Member since
    May, 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Wednesday, September 19, 2018 3:57 PM

Hello Kyle!

I don't think I have much experience here, also because after I complete two lengths of complicated tracks I try to avoid tracks altogether for a long time...

But I have seen stuff like this, and so I say you might go the easy way or the hard way... The easy way might be filing the pins down a little, to make them shorter and less prone to crushing. The track might get pretty fragile after something like that.

OR you might drill the holes out and use catual pins made of wire. I know, a lot of holes to drill, it's a chore... But tank modellers sometimes HAVE to do that.

Anyhow, good luck with your build and have a nice day


All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

  • Member since
    November, 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Wednesday, September 19, 2018 4:25 PM

My experience with them is a lot of work and pain wit hthe pins pinging everywhere and breaking.

Yes... I am an experienced builder and when I see these or the rubber band tracks in kits I immediatly go lookiing around Ebay for Friul tracks. Easier to put together, hang realistically and is a much less stressful way to spend an evening or two!

For my RFM Panther G build I have used Master Club tracks for the first time and they are metal tracks (very soft metal... you can dent and bend them out of shape with a fingernail and not much pressure) and resin pins that break easily. I will be speaking with them about my experience at IPMS show at Telford!

you might think it is an extra expense, and it is, but it is so worth it!



  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, September 19, 2018 4:30 PM

Depending on how snug the fit is between pieces, if they don't go together well you could probably snip the pins off and glue the pieces together.

I built my Tiran 5 with Friul tracks and they are great.

  • Member since
    November, 2013
Posted by Davja on Wednesday, September 19, 2018 6:09 PM

Those look to be about as much fun as jabbing forks in my eyes.


  • Member since
    August, 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Wednesday, September 19, 2018 8:46 PM
If you can afford it I would also go with the friul tracks. I tried using a set of plastic workable tracks on my Bison II build they look better than rubber band tracks but are a bigger headache to deal with. After I had them all built and painted the pins started coming out while I was weathering them creating alot more work and paint touch ups.


  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, September 19, 2018 10:17 PM

Friuls on the Tamiya Tiran 5.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, September 20, 2018 7:48 AM

On a HobbyBoss tank I built a few years ago with them I just stuck in the ones you could see and cemented the whole track length together. If I'd tried to use all of them and make the track 'workable' I'm sure it would have either ended up back in the box or slam-dunked into the trash.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen


  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Valrico, FL
Posted by HeavyArty on Thursday, September 20, 2018 9:49 AM

I always glue indi-link tracks.  I don't see the point in making them "workable" unless you intend to roll them around the floor making vroom, vroom noises.  I will usually make an upper and a lower run, split at the front and rear, then join them when I attach them to the vehicle.  If there are side skirts, like an Abrams or a Bradley, I will only build what can be viewed when the vehicle is sitting under normal conditions.  This usually means no track above the drive sprocket and idler wheel, which is usually anything up inside/behind the skirts.  When glued and properly sagged (or not), well molded indi-link tracks look just as good as Fruils in my opinion, and are much cheaper.

Gino P. Quintiliani - Field Artillery - The KING of BATTLE!!!

Check out my Gallery: http://smg.photobuck...v231/HeavyArty/?

"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." -- George Orwell

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, September 20, 2018 10:32 AM

There's a way to glue up plastic indie link tracks. Set up a pair of wood or whatever strips on the bench the width of the track. Put down as many links as you'll need. Flow Tamiya Thin into the joins. Let it sit about fifteen minutes. Apply it to the vehicle while still pliable.

  • Member since
    December, 2017
Posted by KyleBragger on Thursday, September 20, 2018 1:42 PM

Thanks for the quick & plentiful replies! I do like the Friul tracks and have a number of them as well, but it gets a bit much to drop $50+ per kit :-)

I might try the tip of sanding down the pins a bit. I don't need them to be workable per se, so in that sense the pins are more of an assembly helper.


Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.


By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.