Use a slow setting liquid cement like Testors. The hotter stuff like Mr. Cement S will likely fuse the link joints spoiling the looks. You should do the flat bottom runs first, let them dry, then do the ones going up to the sprockets and idlers. Do the ones that go round the sprockets in at least two assemblies so you can get them off to paint. The upper runs are done last, all in one go so you can set the sag to your satisfaction. You get them all together, then “drape” them between the already assembled links at the sprocket and idler. Use tape along the entire length of the upper run to help hold it in place while the glue sets up. Link by link is nutty business, but just be patient and don’t try to rush.
The odd numbered tracks are due to the nature of torsion bar suspensions - they are staggered so that each bar can run across the bottom of the hull, so left and right sides won’t match each other.
And take heart - there are track sets that can comprise 5 to 6 pieces PER LINK, and multiply that by 80-90 links per side times two, and if you are unlucky the manufacturer will provide two recessed ejector pin marks for you to fill on every single inner pad!
HTH and good luck!