The metal tracks do have an advantange, you can chemically blacken them (or brown them) whic hcan be an outstanding finishing effect.

However there is merit in the resin ones for being the half the price (unless you want the sag of non-live links).  Similar merit in the styrene, especially at almost half the price of resin (again, with the weight limitation). 

In the end, it's the skill of the modeler that shows through.

CapnMac82

The metal tracks do have an advantange, you can chemically blacken them (or brown them) which can be an outstanding finishing effect.

https://www.vms-supplies.com/vms-black-track-pro

Harold

Glad those antenna's are working out for you Harold. I got a new pack last month and they came in the same pack you got instead of one long piece. She is looking good with the tracks on, nice way of working with those.

Bish

Glad those antenna's are working out for you Harold. I got a new pack last month and they came in the same pack you got instead of one long piece. She is looking good with the tracks on, nice way of working with those.

 

Harold

I've read about it bt never used it. I prefer to paint my metal tracks then use washes and pigments. Will look forwrad to seeing how yours turn out.

Sergeant

Thank you CapnMac82 for mentioning this, I had never heard of chemically blackening metal tracks

Entirely welcome.  We in the ship community (of an age) picked up on blackening and browninf of both pewter and brass.  And we owe some good portion of that knowledge to our brothers in the Railroading community. 

Imagine having to paint endless bits of metal rail in its suitable reddish-brown hue (especially on layouts with a few thousand feet of track).  Or how using chemical blackening is far easier than painting a brass steam locomotive model.

There are some chemical solutions for creating verdigris on brass, too.  And at least one compound which will "silver" wood to give it age, too.

One of the coolest parts of modeling fora is in how you can venture into "other" parts of the hobby shop a person might not go to.

She's coming along great Sarge! Please keep the updates coming!

Gamera977

She's coming along great Sarge! Please keep the updates coming!

 

Harold

GreySnake

Great work Sarge! Can’t wait to see more.

 

I have since extended the objective to include selected aftermarket products. So far, I added Friulmodel metal tracks that will be chemically blackened with VMS Black Track Pro, an Accurate Armor Carbon Fiber antenna, DEF Model metal barrel and tonight I added a Eureka ER-3503 metal towing cable.

The one challenge I have been avoiding is camouflage paint and weathering. No skill building project in Armor would be complete without attempting one or both very popular modeling trends. So that will be the next step to locate camouflage used during the Battle of the Bulge in late 1944 Belgium.

Harold

Sergeant

 

 

GreySnake

Great work Sarge! Can’t wait to see more.

 

 

 

 

Thank you G.S. My original objective in this build was to improve my assembly and painting skills. It was the first time I use an Iwata Miniature Spray Gun and I learned how to chemically clean and solder 26-gauge copper wire using jeweler's paste to make periscope guards.

 

I have since extended the objective to include selected aftermarket products. So far, I added Friulmodel metal tracks that will be chemically blackened with VMS Black Track Pro, an Accurate Armor Carbon Fiber antenna, DEF Model metal barrel and tonight I added a Eureka ER-3503 metal towing cable.

The one challenge I have been avoiding is camouflage paint and weathering. No skill building project in Armor would be complete without attempting one or both very popular modeling trends. So that will be the next step to locate camouflage used during the Battle of the Bulge in late 1944 Belgium.

Harold

 

Just about ready for warpaint!