Automotive Paint

You need to use a auto type primer, spray it in light coats to avoid crazing the plastic.

not too hard as long as you use a good sealer so the paint doesn't eat the plastic.

check out my latest build;

cs.finescale.com/.../1796827.aspx

correct. it needs a suitable primer. newer automotive paints are matt+clear coat, so you may need to clear coat your model to gloss it up.

In addition to auto body primers such as Dupli-color, I find Krylon primer works fine under auto paints, and may be easier to find.  BTW, I find most auto paints now are acrylics, not the old solvent lacquers which are now somewhat rare.

Plenty of solvent based auto paint out there.

TCP Global is a good source.

As far as using them on plastic, you are looking for a sealer more so than a primer.

The sealer is used to create a barrier between the solvents in the auto paint and the plastic.

most "primers" are porous, thus they will not adequately protect the plastic from the "hot" solvents used in most auto paint.

It is a good practice to use a "sealer" even if you are using rattle cans such as Krylon, because it too will eat into some plastic model car bodies.

I have been using auto paint for over 36 years and have learned from many mistakes over time.

In the long run, just use caution and start with a good foundation on your kit.  It will save you a lot of money, grief and mental anguish, especially at the price of model kits these days.

If you are interested, here is a link to my photobucket site, there you can see more of my past builds.

s251.photobucket.com/.../library

PANZERJAGER

Even when using real solvent lacquers I have never had a problem with the paint bleeding through either Krylon nor Duplicolor primer.

Your lucky I guess.  All I am saying is you can go at it "fast & loose" or play it safe.

What works for you works for you.  I'm not saying your wrong, I'm just trying to give good well founded advice.

Flo-quill Barrier works well as does a coat of Testors lacquer for plastic models.  

I would think Mr.Surfacer 1200 or 1500  would do nicely too.  Lacquer based but not so hot is messes with the plastic. Gets a real good bite on it though so it's a tough finish.

delete

There's a lot of good tips here, Tanker.  Here are mine -

I've used automotive acrylics for years, with excellent results.  They are "hot", and although they CAN craze plastic (or warp thin section car bodies if applied too thickly), I've never had that happen.

I use spray cans (there are a million different touch-up colors out there), using a short section of a drinking straw to spray into my airbrush paint jar.  Wait for the paint to de-gas (5 minutes should do it), and then I usually add about 50% laquer thinner.

It bites the styrene and adheres very well.....but the trick is.....don't apply too much at once.  Slowly-slowly is the rule of thumb.  You should be able to get excellent coverage easily.

It dries very quickly, and dries hard, so sanding and polishing is easy - just like a full size car.  It takes waxes and polishes well (I use Meguiar's).

Remember....if you want to paint yellows, reds or blues, you might find it better to use a white primer - easier to get full color without having to apply a gazillion coats of color to hide the primer color.

Good luck!

Like PanzerJager said, TCP Global /HOK paints has any color you could imagine, any finish like pearls and Kandys, in about any type from lacquers, urethanes. enamels, and acrylics. However, avoid urethanes due to the cost and the reducers being so aggressive on styrenes.  The only caution is to not use generic clear coats as I've had some less then acceptable results due to wrinkling of the colors, even lacquer on lacquers. Most good primers (like Krylon, and most auto primers) work very well.

Good tips all!