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1966 Ford Fairlane GTA

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  • Member since
    February, 2003
  • From: East Bethel, MN
Posted by midnightprowler on Thursday, December 21, 2017 6:32 AM

No pics here either, whether on the desktop, phone or tablet.

Hi, I am Lee, I am a plastiholic.

Co. A, 682 Engineers, Ltchfield, MN, 1980-1986

1 Thessalonians 4:13-18 1 Corinthians 15:51-54

Ask me about Speedway Decals

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Thursday, December 21, 2017 7:43 PM

I'll keep trying. I'm using Google Photo to load the pictures since Image Shack was behaving badly.

I have reached the point where the body painting needs to be done. Lacquer is a no-no indoors and it's not good for outside painting now. I did some odds and ends today. Got the battery wired up, finished the door jambs, painted the wheels and taillights, and blacked out all the grills and trim that had black lines in them.

I cobbled some battery connectors out of wine bottle foil. They're a bit crude and oversized, but they convey the feeling. The leads are 28 gauge black iron wire painted red for the positive lead going over to the molded on started relay. I also did some more detail painting in the engine compartment.

So now the engine is completely finished.

I sanded off the excess filler on the door jambs and they're ready for paint. I also found and removed some mold lines on the body. This is ready for paint.

I removed the vinyl wheel centers and built the four wheels. The chrome steel wheels had open spokes and blacked out areas between. I painted the blacked out areas flat black. I actually enjoy doing detail painting. I find it calming.

To black out the open areas of the grill and on some of the trim, I simply used some thinned Tamiya flat black which I let run down the grooves and used a cotton bud to remove the excess from the chrome. If I had some Tamiya panel line color in black I would have used that. I have that product in brown and it wouldn't work.

The last thing I did was use the Liquid Chrome pen to detail the backup light section of the red taillight lenses. The chrome pen was the perfect tool to add some real bright effects to these tiny parts.

So, if I can't figure out how to effectively do the exterior color in the winter, I might put this aside until Spring. I have another kit to build, a Trumpeter 1:350 scale USS Essex. I have some Photoetched leftover from the Missouri project and may be able to detail the Essex without having to buy more. Most of the color for the Essex will be water-based and can be applied in the basement. I'm lobbying the CEO to get a spray booth which would be a wonderful addition to the shop.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Thursday, January 11, 2018 12:22 PM

With the weather not cooperating and me not having a spray booth (yet... still working on it), I'm starting a new project on a new thread; the 2002 Trumpeter issue of the USS Essex. See you there. When I can spray outside (lacquer-based paint) I'll get back to the GTA.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Friday, January 19, 2018 4:30 PM

Well... the weather may actually be mild enough in the next couple days to enable me to spray some GTA parts. So to get ahead of this eventuality, I did a few minutes work on the model masking the engine compartment and the inner door panel so I could spray the primer and light yellow outside. It's all predicated on the temps hitting 60 degrees or more. The fender panels actually wrap over that flange in the engine compartment and it's painted body color which accounts for all that masking to expose such a little bit of paint area.

Incidentally, I've switched picture sharing sites and have settled on PostImage which is free, solid, and has no annoying ads (hear that Photobucket!).

Until next time, meanwhile keep tracking my Essex build on the Ships category on this forum.

  • Member since
    June, 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Friday, January 19, 2018 4:47 PM

Uh Oh ! 

 I don't see a tanker offloading .What scale are you running . I have at least two that need a home .They are H.O. Nice job on both the R/R LAYOUT and the engine . 

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Friday, April 13, 2018 7:07 PM

Hi gang! Winter's almost over here in Louisville so I can get back to work finishing the Ford.

Weather was lovely today... a bit windy, but i worked around it and finally got the primer coat onto the Ford GTA. First I needed to make a body clamp to hold it for painting. I know there are commercially available ones, but it's so simple to make one in house. I used a scrap piece of 2X4, and some old coat hangers. After cutting the hangers apart and bending them to a useful shape, I stuck them into the body and got a spacing measurement. I cut some notches in the chop saw and fastened the hanger clamps into the grooves with some self-drilling, star headed wood screws. Those clamps are not going anywhere.

A closeup slowing the clamping method.

It didn't have to be pretty, just functional. And it works great!

I sprayed the body, the separate door, the hood and the little masked area around the fender wells.

I then sprayed some of the Ford light yellow on the fender wells just to test the paint and see how it looks. The color is terrific, very close to my car's color in 1966. The Testor paint is a lacquer (supposedly), but did take several hours to dry. I will have to protect the body from dust during this drying cycle and it means an extended time to do two coats, plus clear coat with sanding/polishing steps in between. It's okay since I'm working on two other projects at the same time.

I'll sand the primer and see if I need a second coat and get ready for the first color coat, but the weather's going to change tomorrow with rain and colder so color will have to wait for a while.

  • Member since
    April, 2005
  • From: Roanoke, Virginia
Posted by BigJim on Monday, April 16, 2018 6:55 PM

I don't know what is going on with your photos, but, the ones above do show up. Most everything before this, back to Dec. 5, shows a minus sign.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Monday, April 16, 2018 7:37 PM

I don't know either since they're stable on the WW2 aircraft website where I also post the same thread. There's something funny with Kalmbach's site. I had trouble loading the site tonight. Could be related.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Wednesday, April 18, 2018 5:07 PM

It was warm (80) today and the winds hadn't started up again, so I was able to get the first color coats onto the Ford. I'm not so good with spray can lacquers. I did some light coats on and noted on the instructions on the can that you should wait a couple of minutes to do additional coats. So I hit it again and got a nice color coverage.

I brought it inside to dry and got a good look at it. Coverage is good, but there's some orange peel which I'll sand out. It will then need additional color. According to the Revell Car Finishing Kit that I bought, you should wait one week before sanding the paint. It will remove some color and may require additional coats. I can use some guidance here since this is not one of the things I know a lot about. The last car kits I spray painted was when I was at Michigan State in 1964 and spray painted Revell's Orange Crate candy orange 2-part lacquer in the incinerator room at Bryan Hall. Yes... I actually built some models while in college and thoroughly enjoyed it. I rediscovered them one day when cruising a local hobby shop. I hadn't built anything from when I turned 16 (Cars, girls and guitars). No dust got into the finish. It's a pretty good color match to my 66 GTA.

Is there anything I need to worry about when recoating after the paint is completely cured?

I also sprayed the hood and door in the basement since it took very little paint and didn't smell up the house too badly. They too will need sanding.

I'm going to try and use the Molotow Chrome Pen to chrome the various raised lettering and the wipers. I'm having good luck with this tool and look forward to using it again.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Monday, April 23, 2018 6:40 PM

It's been a week so I decided to start fine sanding the paint while some paint on the Essex was drying. It was going well with the 2000 grit starting media and then the driver's side roof pillar separated at the lower corner next to the body. This is the side that was drastically cut away when I opened the driver's door. I initially glued it with solvent cement and then some med. CA, but realized that probably wouldn't hold up through the rest of the sanding and polishing steps to come, so I epoxied a small piece of music wire (guitar B string) and will let that set before messing with it again. It might be visible, but it will be strong and I can't chance that it breaks again further in the finishing phase. After this sanding, which did move all the minor orange peel and any included dust, I will have to re-shoot another color coat since it's quite thin at the creases and edges.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Tuesday, May 08, 2018 5:06 PM

Hey gang... just got back from an 11 day trip to Philly and State College, PA and Spring has really arrived in Louisville, so the first thing I did today in the shop was to finish fine sanding the first coat and put on a second coat of light yellow. This time I was able to get pretty good flow outside (very light breeze, perfect temp) and it dried with little distortion. I'll let it cure another week and then sand it again, this time using the finer grits and getting ready for the clear coat. 

The epoxied broken windshield pillar is not very evident. It may impinge on the door closing, so I won't pose it with the closed door. That joint with the piano wire reinforcement is stronger than the rest of the car.

The door and hood also came out decently and will require little polishing.

In a week I'll report again on how well it's coming out. I don't want to sand to much since I did sand into the primer layer on the first coat. Each spray layer introduces more chance for orange peel and runs.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Monday, May 14, 2018 5:16 PM

Another week, another coat of yellow, only this was a coat that maybe shouldn't have been done. It was a comedy of errors and the results are very troubling. I polished the last coat with 4000 grit wet or dry Revell abrasive material, and it looked great, but I went through to primer in some high spots and needed to do another coat.

Again, I shot it outside. The can was getting empty and the nitrile glove tip of my right index finger was a bit loose and got into the spray stream resulting in big drops hitting the model, not a nice spray. Then the model popped out of the holding fixture and landed upside down (of course) on the lid of one of our big plastic trash container (my outside work stand), and then when I touched it to pick it back up again did further damage. Then to make matters worse, the paint picked up pollen. That's right, POLLEN!

The result is a mess that needs to be significantly sanded to bring it back to where it was. I needed to find a way of not getting too deep on the ridges since I can see problems occuring over and over. I need a spray booth. It should come back... if not, I'll have to buy more paint.

  • Member since
    April, 2005
  • From: Roanoke, Virginia
Posted by BigJim on Wednesday, May 16, 2018 8:43 PM

I've been there baby, up and down both sides of that street! This is the point where I strip the model and start all over again.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Wednesday, May 16, 2018 9:33 PM

I kind of thought that someone would suggest that. Just how do you go about stripping it?

I really need a spray booth... I mean I REALLY need a spray booth.

  • Member since
    April, 2005
  • From: Roanoke, Virginia
Posted by BigJim on Thursday, May 17, 2018 8:00 PM

Personally, I like DOT 3 brake fluid. I've tried other methods and found them less than useful.
If you need to remove chrome plating, soak parts in chorine bleach.

I am repainting an AMC Javelin that I had previously done back in maybe 1969. Cleaned up well.

  • Member since
    March, 2012
  • From: Louisville, KY
Posted by Builder 2010 on Saturday, May 19, 2018 11:06 PM

well... on one of those rare Saturday sessions I was able to save the GTA paint job. The 3rd coat was thick enough that I could sand the heck out of the roof and reduce all the embedded crap to a smooth surface. There were still small pieces in place that wouldn't sand further without removing all the paint, but the surface was smooth. So I masked the rest of the model and just sprayed the roof again. This time in the basement with no pollen and very little orange peel. Results: we're back in business. I also wet sanded the rest only this time I did it without the sanding block and was very careful around raised edges and didn't expose any primer. Now I'm ready to finish sanding polishing and get ready to finish up this job. I also bought the clear coat, but frankly I'm a little squeamish in applying it. If the paint polishes well enough I'm going to leave it off.

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