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Tool for cutting? Dremel maybe?

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  • Member since
    May 2013
Tool for cutting? Dremel maybe?
Posted by Josh Ryder on Sunday, August 7, 2022 2:58 PM

I'm looking for a tool to make long cuts in stryene, perhaps a dremel attachment? I'm kitbashing a few different aircraft together to make the XR-17 from the new Lightyear movie. It's basically a jet frame with the wings lowered a few degrees.

What would be the best tool for the job?

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Sunday, August 7, 2022 5:28 PM

JOSH!,HI!

       Go To Micro-Mark,  Try them because they have a great plastic cutter. I use it for 24" to 30"  sheets. Or, now here's how I did it for years. Are you Familiar with the X-Acto blade that has a step in it? I forget what number blade it is, But it fits the small handle .That blade is stiff enough and Angled the right way that you get perfect long cuts by dragging the point backwards in the plastic. GENTLY.,The cuts will always be smooth with just a wee ridge where the blade passed. You can remove that with the side of any Blade.

       Most Power related tools are just too fast. Even with the lowest R.P.M.On a treadle switch an old style Dremel is to fast. What happens mostly with Power and Plastic is you get "Blobbing" on both the blade and the plastic, Cracking too! That's why even for sanding I use hand tools that do not have any from of power except my Arm and Hand!

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Monday, August 8, 2022 11:24 AM

Josh Ryder

I'm looking for a tool to make long cuts in stryene, perhaps a dremel attachment? I'm kitbashing a few different aircraft together to make the XR-17 from the new Lightyear movie. It's basically a jet frame with the wings lowered a few degrees.

What would be the best tool for the job? 

What kind of styrene, that is, do you mean cutting through molded parts, like fuselages, or wings?  Do you mean cutting styrene sheet? Other kinds of styrene stock, like strip, rod, or tube stock?

Personally, I avoid using my Dremel for any cutting on kit parts, unless absolutely necessary, because it's easier to slip and damage the part more severly with motor power behind the cutting action, than if I use a knife and a straight edge or template to score the material till I can separate the parts.  That's my preference, and my advice.

As an aside, you can cut styrene with thread, too.  Here is a YouTube video demonstrating this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XDFoKaRAhc&list=PL0B7CF79F83F95D2C&index=1

I have not tried it, but it looks interesting.

The only other advice I can offer comes from the world of woodworking, and that is, measure twice, cut once.

Hope this helps!

Best regards,

Brad

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Monday, August 8, 2022 11:37 AM

Brad!

      I didn't think anyone knew about that anymore! I have used that when It was an unusual shape that had to be cut very carefully. I also use it rather than a scroll saw when doing my Humming-Bird wings. Remember I mentioned, I carve Life size Humming-Birds as gifts for friends and Family! Why do Humming-Birds Hum? The same way Bees Buzz. It's the sound of those little wings beating so fast!

       I have also used Guitar strings and Violin strings as saws!

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Monday, August 8, 2022 11:42 AM

I use either a razor saw or a jewelers saw with a fine spiral blade in it.  Definitely don't use a Dremel for anything requiring a clean, precise edge.  They run way too fast and generate too much heat.  A Dremel is more of a tool for "stone axe" kinds of jobs.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, August 8, 2022 12:52 PM

As a general rule, when I make a major cut like turning a 1/350 aircraft carrier into a waterline model, I do the following.

Mark the cut line. Apply mask tape to the "keeper side of the cut. Spray the excess on the "lose" side with a contrasting paint color to the plastic. Make the cut with a thin abrasive disk in the Dremel, at least 1/16" into the "lose" side.

Remove the tape and carefully saw/ cut/ sand down until there are no remnants of the paint.

Bill

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Towson MD
Posted by gregbale on Monday, August 8, 2022 4:02 PM

I'm with Eaglecash: razor saw of the appropriate size for long cuts, or an Xacto saw blade (like a mini keyhole saw for the #11 or larger handles) for more petite, detail or close-quarter cuts.

Of course, where appropriate, the old stand-by of scoring with a blade and then snapping along that cut line works a treat.

Greg

George Lewis:

"Every time you correct me on my grammar I love you a little fewer."
 
  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Monday, August 8, 2022 4:31 PM

Hi Bill!

       I have used this method in the past. I only do it now if the hull is supported well internally. It's to easy to get complacent. You know that as well as I.

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