mikepowers wrote: |
I'm not sure if your going to plate it or fill it but it looks like it will work. I can see some resin casting being involved somewhere. Good luck. Mike |
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Looks good Dan. You're on the right track.
Gentlemen, what you are looking at is the heart of the method that many resin ship model masters are formed. If you look closely at the hull of the next resin model you purchase you may see the slight impression of the ribs and keel.
From the point which Dan is at he can either skin the model with sheets of Evergreen or cover it with masking tape and fill the voids with poured resin. Once the resin is hard - remove the tape and sand the resin back to the ribs.
Prime the resin sand and look for bubbles. There will be some. Fill, sand, and repeat. You may also want to use CA as a filler and polish the resin well. Then add applique details such as rub rails and bilge keels.
Decks are simple, even cambered decks. Laminate your deck plans to a piece of Evergreen scribed stryrene and cut it out (perhaps just a bit oversize). Align it fore-to-aft and cement in place. Thin styrene bends easily to conform to the camber of the ribs. Trim to fit.
Building superstructure parts is easy too, but youy need a bench mounted disc sander. Get some sheet plexiglas of the desired thickness (height) and laminate the superstructure plans to it. Use the disc sander to sand away the stock to the line. The disc sander allows for a square-vertical surface. You may need to piece together inside and outside angle cuts. Again you will apply applique details. Hatches, fire hoses and the like are most usually PE, such as from Gold Medal Models. Drill shallow holes for portholes. Be sure that your portholes are on a straight line and evenly spaced.