Anyone Up for a Star trek Group build?

Woody wrote:

Heat is your enemy! I would also support the underside of the part, directly under where you are cutting with the Dremel. If the part isn't solidly supported you will get a wavy. uneven surface.

Woody, I am also having the problem of unlamination.  I tried two things.  two layers I tried Testors Liquid Cement and for the others I tried epoxy.  Both layer are starting to delaminate.  Any suggestions on adhesive for laminating sizes of the circles from 3-3/4" to 1-5/16" in diameter?  I was thinking of trying Weld -On #3.

Archangel wrote:

I have a kitbash of a Klingon ship that would fit right in here. I built two years ago for Wonderfest 2006. It didn't win anything but I did get a few compliments on it. I also have the in progress shots still from when I posted it on www.Starshipmodeler.com while building it. If it fits the rules here I'd like to enter it in the group build.

So it's already done?  Isn't the idea behind a group build to actually build something & not just "enter" what's already on your shelf?

Prince of Styrene II wrote:

Archangel wrote: I have a kitbash of a Klingon ship that would fit right in here. I built two years ago for Wonderfest 2006. It didn't win anything but I did get a few compliments on it. I also have the in progress shots still from when I posted it on www.Starshipmodeler.com while building it. If it fits the rules here I'd like to enter it in the group build. So it's already done?  Isn't the idea behind a group build to actually build something & not just "enter" what's already on your shelf?

I read it as if Archangel had another klingon ship he had started.  If it is not complete i do not mind him jumping in as long as other agree.  As far as an already done one well that does not fit our category. 

Archangel can you be a little more specific on your build?

Woody wrote:

I mostly use CA but I have used epoxy as well.

I would try CA but the strength properties for CA are not very good in the shearing direction.  If you have not had any problems with it I will give it a shot.  What do you think about taking either balsa or basswood sheets, cutting out the circle sizes, laminate, sand and then make resin parts?  There was also a system someone showed on the scratchbuild forum where he used Bondo resin with stacked styrene discs and make a tool to smooth out the resin.  It seems a little too messy to me but it might be something I need to think about trying.  I would like to get the saucer done before school starts in two weeks.  It is going rather slowly.

-Scott Lindsay

SNOOPY wrote:

I read it as if Archangel had another klingon ship he had started.  If it is not complete i do not mind him jumping in as long as other agree.  As far as an already done one well that does not fit our category.

Yes, I agree with this idea.  Maybe I misread it.  Calrification would be helpful.

SNOOPY wrote:

I would try CA but the strength properties for CA are not very good in the shearing direction.  If you have not had any problems with it I will give it a shot.  What do you think about taking either balsa or basswood sheets, cutting out the circle sizes, laminate, sand and then make resin parts?  There was also a system someone showed on the scratchbuild forum where he used Bondo resin with stacked styrene discs and make a tool to smooth out the resin.  It seems a little too messy to me but it might be something I need to think about trying.  I would like to get the saucer done before school starts in two weeks.  It is going rather slowly. -Scott Lindsay

I haven't had a problem using CA laminated styrene but regardless of which glue you use I'd use plenty of clamps. Air spaces will cause de-lamination. My goal in making the blank is no air and fully cured cement/glue.

By the way did you get my PM?

sumpter250 wrote:

Just a thought, how about "rings" instead of circles. It might be touchy aligning the rings, but the  bonded surface area would be smaller, and the liquid styrene cement could set more quickly, with less "gas out" problems.

It probably be a quicker cure time for the adhesives but like you said I think alignment would be rough.

Woody, When you used CA, what did you use to spread the CA?  Did you just clob it on and spread with a putty knife or did you put dabs of CA every 1/2" or so then let the pressure squeeze it out from there?  I was just thinking what about 3M 77 spray?  I am not sure if it has the holding strength when being sanded.  Time to experiment?  I wish I still worked at this filter making laboratory.  To bond plastics together we would put them in special made jig that would heat both surfaces to be bonded but the opposite sides were cooled with CO2 or nitrogen and then each piece pressed together until cooled.  Presto one solid plastic piece.  Well, that was the past. 

Is my GB entry ok?

SNOOPY wrote:

Woody, When you used CA, what did you use to spread the CA?  Did you just clob it on and spread with a putty knife or did you put dabs of CA every 1/2" or so then let the pressure squeeze it out from there?  I was just thinking what about 3M 77 spray?  I am not sure if it has the holding strength when being sanded.  Time to experiment?  I wish I still worked at this filter making laboratory.  To bond plastics together we would put them in special made jig that would heat both surfaces to be bonded but the opposite sides were cooled with CO2 or nitrogen and then each piece pressed together until cooled.  Presto one solid plastic piece.  Well, that was the past.

I use the thin CA and makes concentric rings about 1/4-1/2 inch apart. I don't place the first ring right on the edge but about 1/2 inch back. You just have to eyeball it. After the parts are placed together the glue should go all the way to the visable seam. Too much and you have a mess.

Woody wrote:

Is my GB entry ok?  SNOOPY wrote: Woody, When you used CA, what did you use to spread the CA?  Did you just clob it on and spread with a putty knife or did you put dabs of CA every 1/2" or so then let the pressure squeeze it out from there?  I was just thinking what about 3M 77 spray?  I am not sure if it has the holding strength when being sanded.  Time to experiment?  I wish I still worked at this filter making laboratory.  To bond plastics together we would put them in special made jig that would heat both surfaces to be bonded but the opposite sides were cooled with CO2 or nitrogen and then each piece pressed together until cooled.  Presto one solid plastic piece.  Well, that was the past.  I use the thin CA and makes concentric rings about 1/4-1/2 inch apart. I don't place the first ring right on the edge but about 1/2 inch back. You just have to eyeball it. After the parts are placed together the glue should go all the way to the visable seam. Too much and you have a mess.

Woody, I got your PM and your entry is good.  I need to update the first page.  How do you make the concentric rings.  I have been using the step method where I cut out a circle the best I can by and then putting it into the drill press and file it down to size.  After getting the sizes I need that is when I laminate together.  This weekend will be the next attempt at getting the shape I need.

Archangel wrote:

It is already completed. That is why I asked before entering the build .The good thing is i can start a new build though on something else easy enough. I have a Romulan Warbird from the 3 Pc adversary kit that needs to be kitbashed

Archangel, unfortuneately this is a building site and if it is finished then no you cannot use it as an entry.  You can post pics of if.  I am sure we would be interested in seeing it but if you want to do the Romulan warbird that is okay as long as you ar scratchbuilding or kitbashing the model.  When you do any type of scratchbuilding or kitbashing of pieces post those and tell us how you did it.  Let me know your intensions.

Got some more done.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/strut_finished.jpg

I made the main nacelle strut by laminating three sheets. The middle sheet was grooved, slightly smaller in width and also has a tab to insert into the secondary hull's already present slot. The smaller width creates a trench around the outer edge. I'm also proud of the angle leading down to the grooves.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/struts_on.jpg

Both main struts are inserted. I also filled the aft with weights to counter all the CDs in the saucer.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff5/Prince_of_Styrene_II/USS%20Taegu/impulse1.jpg

I shaved off a bit of the underside "flair" just aft of the saucer which will house the impulse engines.  I think I'll also end up blending the flain into the underside of the saucer.

That's all for now!

Boba Fett wrote:

Question Snoopy, are you gonna post this in GB's? You might get more people that way... Just a thought. If so, when?

I would and probably should but the last time I suggested a scratchbuild there I did not get any takers.  I figured anyone interested in Sci-Fi things come here so for now I will stay here.  I may at the very least post a notification of this group build. 

I sure will do that. I haven't started yet But I have an idea of turning the Warbird into a Romulan Transporter or a three engined variant to the Warbird. I know it's not a new idea but with what I have on hand its about all I can do. Here are some pictures of the model I was talking about before that is already built. I bashed a nX-wing and a D-7 together. After i had finnsihed it I had realized the nose was a bit too long . It had parts from the TOS Enterprise, The Hasagawa Wepons sets and a ceneter gear shift from a car model for detail and a part from a Monogram snap tite space shuttle.

The start.  a broken X-wing and the rear half of a D-7 kit

http://img466.imageshack.us/img466/2083/0054mr.jpg

The engines

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/3308

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9936/0098hh.jpg

The boom and aft sections mated and some details added.

 http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/8663/0019hv.jpg

Here are the rest.

Here I cut out the Torpedo launch tubes and used plactic straws for them so they would look more realistic. I added a tank Turret to the top of R-2 to make it lok more like a Klingon bridge . You can see the center console for a gear shift from a car kit on the top of the nose.

http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/9927/0032zp.jpg

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9518/0048zp.jpg

The aft section

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/3686/0075ot.jpg

The Finnished Product. I painted it in  Tamiya Primer Grey and used a heavy wash of black.

http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/1388/scan0003b1dp.jpg

Here is a close up of the top of the nose. You;ll see part of a plastic twizzle stick and some plastic strip added to either side of it to make the cloaking device generators.

 http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/2842/vtadsc00466ef8.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums

http://img.photobucket.com/albums

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/Archangel51534/S6300116.jpg

Woody wrote:

I use a cordless drill to turn the part and a Dremel with a coarse tooth to sculpt the part. Turn the part your cutting slowly and use the dremel on as high as speed as you can that doesn't cause melting.  If the part isn't solidly supported you will get a wavy. uneven surface. I clamp the drill to the workbench, support the back side of the piece with my finger tips(put talc powder on your finger tips), and hold the dremel with my right hand.

Woody, when you use the dremel/moto tool, 1) Which attached do you use a sanding stone or one of the drum sanders? and 2) Which direction do you use the Dremel tool?  I mean is the tool turning counter the drill's rotation or perpendicular to the drills rotation.

I made to new discs to be made into a saucer.  The discs turned out pretty good.  I think they are pretty solid laminated.  I used Super Glue this time and allow 48 hours cure time.  I made the discs by putting them into my drill press, first filing them with a course file, then using a sanding block with medium sandpaper, and then one of those 3M fine sanding sponges.  Can out looking pretty good.  I made sure that things did not get over heated this time.  Tonight I will attempt to make the saucer section.

I finally got the Jackill drawings redrawn in scale, for the USS Kodiak NCC 6000 secondary hull.

  Scratchbuilding the secondary hull, Warp nacelles, hull and nacelle pylons, will be the first part of this project. Modifying the Reliant kit to represent the Kodiak's primary hull will be part two. I have to figure out exactly what construction method I want to use. the hull will be styrene, at least on the outside, I may opt for micro plywood for the forms, and a secure base to anchor the primary hull to. The complete drawing is in Jackill's Starfleet Reference Manual ships of the fleet Volume II, along with the specs of the class. 

Woody wrote:

Lucky me the National Guard has issued a curfew and a state of emergency. I haven't been able to join the forum because we are without power, water, and heat, due to a very bad icestorm that has crippled us here in Missouri. I'm on a run for food and a doctor for my sick 3 year old daughter, about a hundred miles from home and found a Wi-Fi signal at a hotel that still has power. It's amazing how quickly the thin coating of civilization rubs away to bring us back to a state of anarchy. They have had fights break out over gas and food. I'm sleeping with my AR-15 and a 9mm pistol. I hope our food holds out. Pray for us and I'll be back online when the world starts back up.

Sounds like you need those prayers.  It is said that in this country where our government is suppose to help us they never seem to actually go through with it.  The National Guard should be bring in suppplies continuosly.  I served in the military and we did some pretty amazing stuff in other countries why can't we do the same here.  We know where and when storms will hit why not get mobolized ahead of time.  Woody, all my prayers to you friends and family.  I love this country and want to see good things happen.  I hope you never have use those weapons.  Godspeed!