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In addition to the Alfa, I also was able to put down coats of Future and apply decals to several other SSN kits that I am working on. Revell Germany's decals on the old Skipjack kit, no problems Airfix decals on HMS Torbay, very nice , Alanger's decals (by Begemont) on K-267 Dragon, Akula Class SSN, a couple minor issues, , But Dragon decals on USS Dallas... The camouflage ones that were supposed to go around the periscopes, snorkel,and other antennas did not work well, so I will have to paint those. Ah well...
USS Skipjack
USS Dallas HMS Torbay K-267 Dragon
USS Dallas
HMS Torbay K-267 Dragon
HMS Torbay
K-267 Dragon
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
Ahh, is that the infamous Dallas that was able to miraculously track the silent and deadly Red October thanks to a witty sonar operator named Jonesy??
Nice work on the subs stik, now get back to that Graf Spee!!!
Eric
Jester75 Ahh, is that the infamous Dallas that was able to miraculously track the silent and deadly Red October thanks to a witty sonar operator named Jonesy?? Nice work on the subs stik, now get back to that Graf Spee!!!
The same How often do you see a sonarman becoming a Hollywood hero?
And I actually did do some work on Graf Spee today. Painted a couple steel decks so next they can be masked, the surrounding bulkheads painted, then they can be attached to the superstructure.
Awesome, looking forward to seeing that one done. Not to kick your thread off track but I received the Premium Spee today and it took several hours to scrap my jaw off the floor. What you get in this kit for a C-note is nothing short of amazing!!!!!!!! I can't quit pulling all the stuff out of the box and looking over it!!!
I really like how Academy does the "basic" ship kit at a very reasonable price (under $40 for this one IIRC) and a high end kit with bells and whistles for the price that the other Far Eastern companies dont seem to want to try to match.(and with the Chinese price control capabilities,I wonder why)
A couple more shots of Dallas and Torbay. This morning I applied some pro modeler wash to the recessed details (except for the non slip area on Dallas- gonna use a balck was there)
Torbay
and Dallas I have to work the next couple of days, but will have days off in the middle of the week, so more progress pics then.
and Dallas
I have to work the next couple of days, but will have days off in the middle of the week, so more progress pics then.
I am loving this. So your going to have to take a picture of all these subs with there bases. Did you figure out yet how your going to display them? I need some Ideas on this one.
"Mark VI, and we've got it by the ass."
Well thankfully each sub has a little base stand. So I will display them on a ledge/shelf I have in my model room as they come off teh production line. And yes, I do want to get a photo of all of them together as that happens as well. At least the 1/350 ones. I have that odd box scale Skipjack as well.
What color did you use for the hull black on the Dallas? And are you going to use brass metallizer on the props?
On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6
The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15 http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/
I used Polly Scale "Scale Black" on all these subs. I am using different brands of brass on the screws and not too keen on any of them. I need to get me some Metalizer for my next round of subs. The are my "learning" kits.
Would NATO Black also work as a faded black for the hull color?
A very dark, flat/satin, (like a dark gunship gray) gray is probably the best finish for US submarine hulls when freshly painted. If you want them to look like the real thing prior to cleaning, a matte tan coat to simulate dead sea growth would be appropriate. I know what I am talking about, I've seen quite a few subs in drydock over the past thirty odd years.
I'm from the government and I'm here to help.
I would imagine Tamiya NATO black would not be bad as it is more of a very dark gray with a bluish hue than a black. I may have to try that on the USS Chicago, USS Maryland, Oscar II or November I have in the stash.
Subfixer do you have any pics you can post of subs, before and after stuff? Of course not showing anything classified or what not. Your mention of a matte tan coat sounds intriguing to attempt...
All painting and parts are attached on the USS Dallas and HMS Torbay. Tomorrow a final flat coat and pics...
USS Dallas and HMS Torbay are now complete:
Dallas and Torbay together
And my 1/350 Sub fleet on display, NATO vs Warsaw Pact
Stikko those boats are building up into an impressive collection.
You two each- what's your fav sub movie?
I really like Run Silent, Run Deep and Das Boot, but I think that the mini series War and Rememberance had some of the best sub sequences done as well. Red October could have been great, and while they did keep fairly true to the novel there were just a tad too many changes.
I am working on the USS Chicago right now and used model master Gunship Gray though I think Model Master Schwartzgrau would have worked too as they look alike. And I am also going to work on a 1/700 USS Los Angeles as well. Also I am guessing the camo on the mast was painted on by you right? I am going to do the same thing though I am going to be doing the masts a bit differently.
stikpusher USS Dallas and HMS Torbay are now complete: HMS Torbay USS Dallas Dallas and Torbay together And my 1/350 Sub fleet on display, NATO vs Warsaw Pact
Yes the kit decals for the periscopes and masts did not want to work so I pulled them off and used them as a guide for hand painting the camo. I used light gray 36495 and dark gray 36081.
I am going to do the same thing with my masts. The ones you did look nice but the upper section of the masts with the exception of that large triangular shaped one in the back should have a hull colored section on it help blend it in with the hull when retracted same goes with the periscopes too.
Thanks for the tip. On the next sub I build I will do that. I could not find any good close up shots of the periscopes when I did an image search at the time I was painting.
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