Should I change out the stash?

it depends on how good you are at 1/700 scale mongoose . I'm afraid they are too small and fiddly for me . but from what I have seen of your builds , it would be a piece of cake for you mate .

steve5

Disclaimier, I'm a 1/700 person. Because there are more choices, and waterline models are easy to display.

But IMO cost of a model should not be a consideration for choosing a scale. A 1/350 model is 8x the size of a 1/700 and easily 4x the effort to build one. So in a way, building one 1/350 takes 4x as long as one 1/700 for a similar level of detail per unit of dimension. Given the relative cost of 1/700 vs 1/350 kits, you are getting a better deal per $ for entainment in the larger scales. 

Key is the subject must interest you, so that the end result can be held in good esteem.  That's where 1/700 reigns over 1/350, and generally better kits (given a particular subject) due to the volume of recent releases. If you know where to buy things, for the cost of one 1/350 (not the really old ones) you can also get many 1/700 kits (be it resin or plastic) that comes with very comprehensive aftermarket sets that you don't need to fork out extra for. 

Tamiya is hardly a significant brand for 1/700 anymore, with no recent releases and many in its catalogue superceded by various competitors be it Fujimi/Pit Road/Trumpeter/Flyhawk. Only advantage is Tamiya kits are not expensive because they are old, and widely available. Trumpeter is the main stay of newer 1/700 kits of non-Japanese subjects, with Fujimi/Hasegawa/Aoshima/Pitroad specialising in IJN subjects, Flyhawk in RN subjects.

Potchip nailed it. I am not strictly 1/700, nor do I think potchip might be either.

But the first point is a great one. The rule of cubes gives a volume of 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 in a scale half the original, or 1/8 the volume of the original.

And I convert the ones I build to full hull. At 1/700 the draft of a ship is usually somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2". I just cut a piece of basswood over thick, trace the outline of the hull at waterline, and shape it following whatever information I have.

Rudders and shafts are easy; all kinds of props can be found in 3D print word. Left hand, right hand, four blade, five blade and on.

Plastic kit availability isn't really much more than in 1/350 I think, but in resin there is so much. I have three different classes of CL cruisers from the USN in World War Two. Two are plastic; Dragon releases of older Pitroad/ Skywave, and one is resin.

About the only negative I see is that aircraft are fussy, and decal app is a real lesson in exercising the zen mind. Sometimes I'll just do the bigger ones. 

I second the recommendation.

Bill

I had two reasons for moving to 1:700.  First is the display problem.  Second, my fingers have developed a shake.  I am a firm believer in use it or lose it, so figured concentrating on smaller scales would at least help to retain what I have.

I have learned a few tricks on finicky tweezer work that I discussed in the tools forum (about shakey fingers).  Also, a few days ago I was standing in the checkout line at a Dollar Tree.  There was a pair of 31/2 diopter glasses there (had never seen that high at my local one).  I had heard that too high a magnification with cheaters doesn't work because there is no convergence ground into them, but for a buck I figured it is worth the risk.  I tried them the other day and they work fine.  I suspect they would cause a headache if I wore them the whole time I was at the bench, but I kept my old 2 1/4 and use those regularly, have the new pair now for really close work.

Really hard for me to try and answer.Its your personal decision,really have no idea whats best for you and your situation.

This is an interesting question for me because I wrestled with it for over a month.  When Trumpeter began providing their 1/700 kits with full hull options, Aoshima and Hasegawa followed suit, and 1/700 became an attractive option.  I much prefer full hull models, and I feel cheated by waterline kits because I feel like I am getting half a model.

But, Trumpeter has unfortunately stopped producing the option for full hull in their 1/700 kits.  Although they are doing great work in their recent kits, they do not fit into my collection anymore.  I had purchased their California and Colorado class battleships, their Texas and New York just don't fit.  I haven't purchased a 1/700 kit since.

Bill

I work in both. I will usually get what I really want in 350 as long as it's avaliable and the rest that intrests me in 700. I get 350 for the detail and I can really get in there and add extra. I can do that with 700 but not as easily. I pretty much have all the ones I want in 350 except for the Repulse, Kaga, an Essex class, a Lexington class and a Udaloy....maybe the Pytot Velikiy. Everything else is in 700, most waterline, which doesn't bother me at all because I add a little bit if the hull with some polystyrene and place them in a seabase anyway.

Yes, the room is an issue but after a few years, I donate them to museums or veterans homes anyway. My kids will just throw them away after I go so I might as well decide their fate before that.

For me, 700 PE is no more or less difficult than 350.

It's a personal decision.

I would have to go with 1/350th if for no other reason than my weird eye problen.  My focus is constantly changing even with glasses.  This makes 350th the obvious choice.  I have some 700th scale ships that I most likely will never be able to build, like my Wolverine carries.A great kit but like the others, it just sits in the drawer.

The 1/700th scale is very popular in Japan and Okinawa, has been for many decades, because of their size and more recently the amount of detail that can be added.

This is really diverse feedback with some new points and thought processes to consider. Keep the opinions coming guys. 

Don's comment on keeping the finger dexterity up was a thought provoking one. MC I've given away 2 builds to family and friend and each one was a struggle, although the 2nd one wasn't as traumatic as the 1st. Maybe it gets easier. Have wondered on occasion what will happen to them once I'm gone and i think you hit it right

I'm contemplating buying a BB in 1/700 that I don't have in 1/350 and seeing what I think. Under the premise that if I don't end up sticking with that scale then I don't end up with a duplicate. 

Glad to help choose if you want. One thing about 1/700 is that it's really, um, incestuous.

Seems like everyone reboxed everyone else's model.

Today I saw a 1/700 cruiser on ebay for $ 90 and the same kit at HobbyLinkJapan for $ 14 plus shipping. One Dragon and one Pitroad.

The first 1/700 I built in the last century was a 1/700 Dragon LHS, the Tarawa. That was a terrific kit.

I absolutely agree that if you are comfortable with your abilities with 1/700 It is a great choice.  1) Variety  2) cost  3) space.
Even with the many new 1/350 kits being offered today, I don't think it will ever match the huge range of kits available in 1/700, both plastic and resin. 
And for resin, the cost difference is stunning.  The best 1/350 resin kits can cost three times the price of the best 1/700 resin offerings.
Space is a huge factor for me.  I put my waterling ships on water bases, and even with the rectangle footprint, I get ten models into a cabinet that would hold two 1/350 kits on nice bases.

Good luck making your own decision,
Rick

Just as an example, I have 13 x 1/350 and 21 x 1/700s. I like the 700s, some of the old Tamiya molds really can look good with some AM help. I don't know about the Trumpy 700s though.