Enter keywords or a search phrase below:
I have the 1/200 scale Imai USCGC Eagle kit in the stash, that I’m thinking about building...
From my review on ”Rajen’s Ship List”: ”Also, the hull has no plating detail at all. Eagle is made from overlapped, riveted steel plates- the lines and rivets are prominent features of the real ship's hull.”
I’m thinking about ways to address this. I thought about maybe gluing very thin pieces of styrene sheet to the hull in places, but that seems like it could be problematic on a hull with lots of compound curved surfaces. I also am thinking about maybe masking rows of “plates” and the adding a layer or two of primer to create the effect.
Here’s a shot of the ship in dry dock, to give an idea of what the real one looks like:
https://goo.gl/images/ZWsBNU
Any thoughts or experiences to share?
-Bill
Webmaster, Marine Modelers Club of New England
www.marinemodelers.org
Paul Budzik, in his Scale Model Workshop youtube series, demostrates a technique where he uses masking tape as a straight edge and protective layer to scrape a slight bevel into a coat of heavy auto primer. Results in a slight ridge in the paint making a shadow line
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xXbmPilmBWA&feature=youtu.be
Both methods will work. The tape and heavy primer is certainly easier with any hull. The difficulty with the styrene stock depends on the lines of the hull. I generally use that on lakers (great lakes freighters) that have simpler, fuller lines, so it is not as much challenge there. I have also done a composite- styrene above waterline where hull has fewer compound curves, masking tape/primer below waterline.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
I'm not sure I can see that detail in the photo. At 1/200 a plate that's 1/16" or so is going to be so thin that it's a small fraction of a mil. Also, any overlay means replacing all of the other detail such as port hole frames.
What I do see is a lot of "oil canning" between the frames. While there are various ways to achieve that, again it will affect a lot of other detail that Imai included.
That Imai kit is the one really accurate model available, and as it's no longer easy to find, if it ever was, I'd work with it as is.
Here's a great thread from days past, in which you and I participated.
http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/117041.aspx
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
I seen a video of a guy using the tape for finger nails women use to decorate their nails. The tape is very thin and after painting it look quite convincing as hull plates.
Marcus
rcboater I have the 1/200 scale Imai USCGC Eagle kit in the stash, that I’m thinking about building... Any thoughts or experiences to share? -Bill
At 1/200, I'm not sure I'd bother.
But, this is not about me, it's about solutions.
To that end, perhaps squares/rectangles of decal film or bare metal foil, and then priner over those? That would give a teeny little edge to weather/dry brush against.
Alternately, a person with a decent art program (like gimp) could make a bunch of black rectangles with "spattered" edges, and print those on to decal film. Laying those over a white hull would give a black hull with mottled white edges.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.