Three Revell Constitutions on hand to build.

It is more than reasonable to install the gun tackle only on the big guns that are visible through the opening between the catwalks on the weather deck. The rest, running the breech rope in continuous fashion from one to the other is fine.

It wasn't so long ago that state of the art plastic warship models had the lower gun deck barrels stuck into sockets in recesses in otherwise solid gun ports.

GMorrison

It is more than reasonable to install the gun tackle only on the big guns that are visible through the opening between the catwalks on the weather deck. The rest, running the breech rope in continuous fashion from one to the other is fine.

It wasn't so long ago that state of the art plastic warship models had the lower gun deck barrels stuck into sockets in recesses in otherwise solid gun ports.

 

 

Gun port lids on, ready for the guns. Sanded the wheels for more adhesive area. 

Ok, would it be best to mount the guns first in your opinion or do gun deck work first, such as bitts, shot racks, capstan, messenger,etc?

I am planning on rigging some if not all of the guns in.

Were the water and grog barrels mounted right on the deck or on platforms?

It looks like the galley was raised on platforms. I would assume with a layer of stone or brick under. I also assume the Constitution had the Brodie stove, but in 1810 Lamb came out with an improved version ot the Brodie. So there might be a possibility that she had the Lamb version...which I doubt. The pic that is shown during the recent restoration is of the Lamb version.

I will have to build the stove if I want a full galley on the gun deck.

I came upon a pic of the Constitutions 24 pdrs. They showed the guns breached to what looked like iron railroad spikes for want of a better description that were not eyebolts in the bulkheads but mounted to the deck. They were heavily cast.

There was no date or period given.

I had never seen that before.

 It was a photograph and not a drawing or painting.

It was supposedly of the Constitution.

I had been too far along to thicken the bulwarks as I wanted on this build, access is not adequate. I have started the second hull, while working on the first one.  The second hull halves are painted but not joined yet as I plan to increase the bulkhead as you and Bill Morrison, and Bob  have done, before joining the halves together.  I may just clamp the hulls together with the gun deck in to be sure they are in the proper shape before gluing to the bulkheads.

The first hull is done to the gun deck, guns are in place and ready to rig.

I have leds from Evans design and had planned to light the gun deck on this first one but my little grand daughter got into it and pulled out the leds. I was able to solder 20 of them but lost six. So those will go into the second hull. 

I have been trying to turn the spars and upper masts on my lathe using the plastic ones as guides, but they are so flimsy that the results are unsatisfactory. I turned the water barrrel and will turn the grog scuttle this afternoon.

Bob, I started the second hull while working on the first one. My hull is mounted on an oak base using two brass pedestals.

I had run wiring for my led chips (3 amp) in through one of the pedestals, at the bow, planning to run from bow to stern, mounting them under the spar deck and running down to the Captian's quarters. But my little grand daughter got her hands on the Constitution and yanked some of the wiring out through the base, destroying six of them. I had to take the rest out and will use them on the second hull. (I'm just glad I had not glued in and rigged in the gun port covers!) She must have tugged awfully hard.

I am making my messenger bitts from sprue..They are in primer right now, but will be dark brown. Photo is on fotki. The gun deck capstan is ready for the messenger cable.

I have 20  3v chips for lighting and those will now go on the second hull.

Using cat5 to make eyebolts. Thanks for that tip. And you can tailor them to what you are using them for. I have chiseled all those little plastic bumps off the starboard side and will be using these eyebolts to breech the guns. If that works out well, I'll do the same for the port side.

I made up the messenger cable bits but will put them in place after the guns are done. I found a drawing done by a crew mmember of the Constitution around 1815 and he shows the messenger bits as square posts. Since I used sprue, mine will be round.

I'll also put the gun deck capstan in after breeching and rigging is done.

When under way, were the capstand posts for turning left in place or stored? How about when in port?

You can see on the images of the Constitution from the museum that the capstan arms were stored overhead between the beams when not in use.  Similarly they stowed hatch covers there as well.  Left mine out on the gun deck.  Very unlikely they would have been left in during battle, as they block flow from one side of the deck to the other.  Really just used to haul heavy stuff, like dropping boats below decks, hauling anchors, etc.

Glad the Cat5 idea worked for you. 

Bob

There are actually two sets on each side.  I assume the second set is for the Spar deck.

Bob

Rick Sr

I found a drawing done by a crew mmember of the Constitution around 1815 and he shows the messenger bits as square posts. Since I used sprue, mine will be round.

Bill, you really learn things from these models. For instance, if you are trying to make your own eyebolts, it's best to relax with a tea instead of a Guiness or two if you expect any degree of success!

So true.  I'm not a fan of the old whip out the old cc and stock up on AM stuff either.

And I don't much like PE eyebolts. Quite a while back I found a source, I think Jotika, that sold bags of nice ones made out of round copper wire.

Well, I made one eyebolt, then tried to run the breeching line through it...too small. glad I only did one and dry fitted it!

The second one fits. the nice thing is since one size doesn' fit all, they can be custom sized.

The trick is to get them all to be the same siz efor the breech. this will take a little pracice.

I am loading them onto the breeching line as I make them to be sure they fit. I seem to be getting about 60% to fit. I'm sure the other 40% can be used somewhere.

My better half says she can hear me talking to myself, as I make these eyebolts. 

I've been wrapping these little wires around small nails, so there are two tails, then twisting the tails tight with my small needle nose pliers. That gives me a tight eyebolt, and is easier to do. I marked the nails for placing the wire around them with a black magic marker and am getting more consistency that way. Then I add a spot of glue. 

Unlike the smooth shafts you get from commercial eyebolts, like from Model Expo, these twisted shafts seem to hold better in plastic when glued in place.

After I finish mounting the guns on the gun deck, I think I'll try making some "s" fasteners and strops.

When I want consistency, I wrap a piece of masking tape around the nail, pin or jeweler's pliers a couple of times. Make your loop, slide down to the tape, twist it tight, repeat.  Works a bit better than a line drawn with a marker.  And you can peel off the tape and reuse the nail, pin or pliers.  Just my 2 cents.

Bob

Rick, if you don't have it...there's a nice little book called "The Neophyte Shipmodeller's Jackstay"., by Geo. Campbell.  Model Shipways published it and cheap copies are easy to come across.

Campbell can draw like Pavarotti could sing, and it's full of really neat little drawings of all sorts of details. Recommended.

If interested, a Brodie galley stove is available in 1/96 scale.  It may save you some work.

Just click on the link at bottom to see it in the catalog, and more for Revell's Constitution.

Thanks. What is the link?

Thanks Bill, looking for it now. As a die in the wool landlubber, I'm surprised I even know what port and starboard are!

Thanks, that is one item I may purchase. They have a lot of things for the Constitution. It's looking like about 3-4 more months to finish this one. Doing two now, using what's learned on this one to do the second.

After these two are done I'm going after that 1/200 Titantic! 

Thanks, I was wondering what those were.

While doing the eyebolts, I diversified a little for relief, and have assembled the lower three masts and painted them british yellow, same as the gun stripe. The sprit too.

Cross trees later, after the blocks are on them before attaching to the mast.

Thanks, that sounds good. 

The wire in the cat 5 seems to be 20 or 24 gauge copper. Would brass be better? Is that good enough for wiring the guns into the gun deck?

I had some cat 5 on hand from wiring the upstairs for pcs. Some was stranded, not good for the Constitution and some was solid wire.

I am going to use wire for the footropes on the spars too.

Just ordered a copy from Model Expo.

Guns are in, pinned and glued to the deck. What a nuisance that was!

Got it!!!

Started hull #3, # 2 being used for spare parts, while working hull #1. Breeching lines going slow on #1.

#3 hull painted but not joined.

I had planned to light #1with 3w led chips untill my little grand daughter pulled the wiring out from under the hull. Since I drilled through the mounting pedestals to install the wiring into the hull, can not figure how to reinstall the darn wiring. So I will put most effort into the spar deck, and put the lighting into #3. Oh, and now I lock the door to my shop!

Can you attach a wire to each end of each pedestal? LED system is DC, right? So you can make the pedestals plus/ minus terminals. 

That's right! Never thought of that! Thanks.

Before you glue the hull halves together on the new one, tie a knot in the wiring harness or wires running into the hull, leaving enough slack so that if the wires are ever tugged or pulled, they won't come out. Knot should be inside the hull and large enough so that it can't get out the hole drilled for the wires.  I do this on all my wired builds.  Never know when you will accidentally pull on them.  I also use a plug at the base instead of directly soldering the leads from the model.  Again, the plug will come undone and not all your hard work.

Bob