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cheers mongoose , will let you know how it goes .
some vents and capstans ready for paint . also gor the depth charger racks made , can anyone please tell me what colour the drums were .
epoxied the bolts for the pedestals
the wood decks painted
steve5 the wood decks painted
Show us a close up!
In the pattern: Scale Shipyard's 1/48 Balao Class Sub! leaning out the list...NOT! Ha, added to it again - Viper MkVii, 1/32 THUD & F-15J plus a weekend madness build!
hear you go mongoose , I use MM wood , with a burnt amber oil wash , and a dot filter using yellow , blue , grey , dk brown . I have only just tried the dot filter technique , still learning. the super structure hasn't been dot filtered yet .
Oh i can definitely see the color variations. Thanks for sharing your technique. I'm going to try that out.
I forgot to add ,that I put a layer of something like future between each coat mongoose .
we can't get future in aust , so I use LONGLIFE FLOOR POLISH , you don't get a real good shine , but as a cover coat it's really good .
I modified one of the planes , to make it look like it's coming out of the hanger . I just have to try and unglue one of the hanger door's now
Hey Steve, just found your new project. Looks like nice work going on here, as usual. Wish the subscribe feature worked. I will follow along when I remember to check.
no worries steve , nice to hear from you . I didn't realise the subscribe feature had stopped !!
got some more PE work done ,
steve5 no worries steve , nice to hear from you . I didn't realise the subscribe feature had stopped !!
Hey Steve, the subscribe feature has not worked for me nearing a year now. FSM does not consider it important enough to fix it. Consider yourself lucky that it works for you.
Keep up the good work sir. I like what you are doing.
cheers steve , maybe they will read this and reconsider mate .
the paravanes are done , added a stripe for effect .
Hi;
Dot Filters.They are not as hard as they seem.You must first realize if you are going to use it for decks it's definitely tricky. What I do is put clear semi Gloss over the deck first. Then with plank sizes being what they are,I put two tiny dots on each staggered row of planks toward the deckhouse. Then, You use acrylics. You don't want them to even start drying. So do a little area first. Use a test deck to get the feel.
On a deck your deck Dot filters would be two or three shades different from your deck color. Then drag, In the direction of the planks with a Water or Alcohol moist Fan brush till they start dissappearing leaving a shaded streaked look. That's why I reccommend a test deck or surface.
Once you get the hang of it, even a hull with Camo will not be an issue. You will be surprised how much character it can give a model. Also remember this, NEVER paint a ship Model( Warship) one shade of what they choose to call grey. Especially the callouts they give. The paint can and will either make the ship harder to admire or look too dark to draw the eye.
Ask me I know. I didn't think when I did the 1/350 U.S.S. Butler. She was all over shades of Navy Blue grey. Well,Blue. She's Blue alright! I can't even see the stokes stretchers (P.E.) hanging on the bulkhead without a real bright L.E.D. Flashlight. See? I make mistakes too.( I still love the little model though) Funny Though, She has turned out to be my best model in that scale!
I have to ask;
Is that canopy clear plastic? If it's P.E. You can add glass with Testors Window Maker! Please excuse the bouncing around. I like the cleanliness of your P.E. work!
thank's for the tutorial and kind words TB , testors window maker is too dear in australia mate , I think it's $50 just for the postage , but I have got some micro kristal klear , which i will try on the canopy .
I got the wing bridges done , used a bit of the kit [plastic] and pontos PE .
got a heap more PE done today .
Looking good! Enjoying the updates on this end :-)
thanks mongoose , this came the other day , my cigar lighter , coupled with solder paste , all the pieces I have to solder have become a lot easier .
Steve5 you have to post a vid Of that
this is the guy who showed me how to do it , ignore the beginning , he can be a bit out there mate , but it is a good tutorial .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QeG2rlI2NHU
finally got the main mast done , the lower crows nest I totally stuffed up , had to make one out of styrene . I used both soldering and CA . now for the fore mast .
mongoose was that tutorial by will pattinsen any help .
fore mast as far as I can go , not looking forward to the next step
some more fiddly stuff done , hatch covers , anchors etc .
steve5 finally got the main mast done , the lower crows nest I totally stuffed up , had to make one out of styrene . I used both soldering and CA . now for the fore mast . mongoose was that tutorial by will pattinsen any help .
just got thru it today. I found everything for it on Amazon andplan to give it a go. The cigar lighter i think is going to be the big win. I have a small butane torch but it put out so much flow that even larger parts move or it blows the solder off the part before it can melt. That's where i think the paste will help.overall this looks like a superb method!
Steve,
Love the work you're doing on this ship!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Mike
Hector Berlioz
mongoose , the paste is good , as it can act like a glue to hold bits in place .
nice to see you are watching mike .
merry x-mas and a happy new year to everyone .
added the windows , they came out pretty good TB .
Definately following your build, and looking thru older builds as well, for when I start on my own fleet of 1/200's.
"Do it as well as your experience and skill allow. Practice and persistence increase skill"
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