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Color suggestions for wooden decks

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Color suggestions for wooden decks
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 6, 2004 6:15 PM
Can anyone give me some advise on colors i can use to simulate wooden decks? I dont have an airbrush, and would like to use a spray can,im doing the hms Rodeny,Tamiya.The kit suggest yellow and buff. I really dont want to use a brush,not very good at it,yet!! Any suggestions and help would be appreciated.

thanks
eli
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by Jeff Herne on Monday, September 6, 2004 8:43 PM
Eli,

If you have access to Vallejo paints, they have a three color that are perfect for teak, depending on whether you want fresh teak, slightly weathered, or heavily weathered. Use Vallejo 847 Dark Sand for new teak, 976 Buff for medium weathering, or 987 Medium Gray for really weathered teak. I've never used a paint that brushes as well as this does, provided you keep it on the thin side. I did a two coat application of thinned beige brown (for IJN Lino) on bare plastic, and you can't see a brush mark.

Jeff Herne
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, September 7, 2004 6:36 PM
Jeff
Nice talking with you again,thanks for all the advice,i checked out Vallejo paints online,.like the dark sand,thats about the color im looking for,like i said im pretty new to modeling,especilly painting and weathering. im sort of reluctant to use a brush on the deck unless you can give me advise on like brush size and technique to use. I would like to mask and use a spray can any suggestions on the spraycan route?
many thanks
Eli
  • Member since
    January 2003
Posted by Jeff Herne on Tuesday, September 7, 2004 8:53 PM
Either way, unless you really good at masking, you're going to have to brush something...either the superstructure in gray or the decks in tan.

Tamiya Spray paints are very nice, just be sure to warm the can first...I typically fill a pitcher with hot tap water (do not boil, microwave or heat with a blow torch, flame thrower, candle) and let the can sit in it for awhile, adding more hot water to the pitcher every few minutes to keep the temp up. Once the can is warm, there's more pressure in the can, and it atomizes better.

If you mask, you need low-tack masking tape...I generally use the 3M blue stuff. Be sure you allow your first sprayed color to dry and cure before you start masking, otherwise, you pull the paint up with the tape.

I also use Glad Press-N-Seal, it's an adhesive backed plastic wrap. I've never had problems with it, but some folks have complained its left residue on their models.

Jeff
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