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Any special or home-made tools you use?

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  • Member since
    April 2015
  • From: Detroit, MURDER CITY
Any special or home-made tools you use?
Posted by RudyOnWheels on Thursday, April 23, 2015 11:16 AM

I have had issues clamping rounded airplane fuselages together, I haven't seen a tool out there that would do the trick, I am thinking about buying some clamps and modifying them with "curved" or rounded pieces on the clamping areas, so the fuselages would "self-center" themselves, instead of the clamp "walking" itself off of the rounded surfaces.... Do you guys have any special tricks or tools, for this job or others?

Thanks!!!   Rudy

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Thursday, April 23, 2015 12:05 PM

I just hold 'em with my hands until the glue sets.  Doesn't take too long with solvents like Tamiya Thin.

Some things you just can't clamp.  I understand your problem.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by RRA2 on Thursday, April 23, 2015 1:23 PM

Not completely home made; but I use the draw string you find on sports gear and jackets and hoods. I use old ones to hold something larger (ex; submarine halves) together that don't require a lot of pressure. The small plastic slider locks the elastic string/cord in place quite well.

RA in AZ

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Thursday, April 23, 2015 9:51 PM

I use those metal binder clips of various sizes. LOL! I swipe a few from my office.

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: St louis
Posted by Raualduke on Thursday, April 23, 2015 11:03 PM

What about good old rubber bands?

  • Member since
    March 2015
Posted by Peaches on Friday, April 24, 2015 1:14 AM

What I do is go from the opposite way.  For instance if I am glueing the top, I put the clamps from bottom, especially the spring clamps HF because the pads actually have a little bit of movement and it helps create a tighter clamp.  One of the things I do for wings is I have a scrap piece of wood with a 45 V groove in it for putting in a set of C clamps.  

WIP:
Academy F-18 (1/72)

On Deck 

MH-60G 1:48 (Minicraft)

C-17 1/144

KC-135R 1/144

Academy F-18(1/72)

Ting Ting Ting, WTF is that....

  • Member since
    August 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Friday, April 24, 2015 8:14 AM

I use "self sticking " Ace bandage for fuselage clamps and other usage.  

Being old I have regular blood tests done and the nurse always attaches the cotton ball at the needle site with this stuff clear around my arm.  I took it off my arm and tried wraping around the fs I was working on and voila, it worked like a charm and I get it free.  you can wrap it around the fs as tight as you want and it stays there and conforms to any shape...much easier to put on and off than rubber bands.

When I need to use metal binder clips for wing edges etc. they don't seem to stay ,put popping off the model.  I solved that problem by sliting a clear surgical tube longways and sliding it over the clyindrical clamping edge of the binder clip..  They stay put anywhere. You can also put the surgical tubing over the ends of spring clothes pins for the same reason.

My local flea market has a vendor who sells lots of dental tools for cheap.  Where she gets them IDK.  I bought an L shaped  dental pick from her, carefully sharpened it up and it turned out to be the best scriber I ever used for panel lines.

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    August 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Friday, April 24, 2015 8:17 AM

look for my reader tip in the May issue of FSM as well for PE

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, April 24, 2015 9:16 AM

I have two homemade tools for rigging (biplanes and ships).  One is a fork, the other a hook.  Both are made from knitting needles by cutting away a different portion of the eye.

I make clamps from wooden clothespins, by cutting away the fishmouth area so it grips right at the end.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2015
  • From: Detroit, MURDER CITY
Posted by RudyOnWheels on Friday, April 24, 2015 11:14 AM

Is that the one about using the dowels for metal PE, and annealing it? I have yet to get a set of PE or a set that has it. But I am gonna try it soon!

  • Member since
    April 2015
  • From: Detroit, MURDER CITY
Posted by RudyOnWheels on Friday, April 24, 2015 11:27 AM

Thanks guys! I keep tying out a response, but this damn page keeps auto-updating or reloading and losing it! All great tips, I will try them all. I think I will buy some quick-clamps and have our machinist at work put some radii in some pieces of UHMW that I can attach to the clamping surfaces as well. Cant hurt to try!

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Friday, April 24, 2015 8:36 PM

I use strong, thick rubber bands to hold two big parts together.  For relatively small parts, I use regular clothespins.  For tiny parts, I use mini clothespins that I bought at W-Mart.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, April 25, 2015 10:22 AM

Recently I bought two aftermarket resin Wasp Jr. engines for a project.  The engines did not include the pushrod tubes- those were for the purchaser to sratch.  It took eighteen per engine!  I sanded a board down to a thickness equal to the length I needed, and drilled two small holes in it.  I then stuck stainless steel pins in the holes (cut points off first) and cut at top surface of wood.  Got my pushrod tubes pretty fast, two at a time.  Cut the pins with small dikes.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Sunday, April 26, 2015 7:45 AM

Love this thread.    I admire the clever ways you modelers figure out how to solve the many problems we have without having to resort to buying thousands of dollars worth of specialized tools that are on the market.    Keep em coming guys .

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Cornebarrieu (near Blagnac), France
Posted by Torio on Friday, May 8, 2015 11:05 PM

I usually use car acrylic putty on finishing as it is half paste half liquid (not intended to plug big holes I mean) that comes from an auto repair shop. To spread it on the model, I use a shaper (shaper are brushes with no hair but with shape blocks of rubber instead) they come in three grades of stiffness, white for soft, grey for medium and black for strong stiffness. I found them on ebay for a dime; I use a white set, be aware that there are several sizes but I think the smaller the better. By the way, when you have finished with putty, cleaning the shaper is very easy as putty does not stick on it

Thank you all for coming José

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Cornebarrieu (near Blagnac), France
Posted by Torio on Friday, May 8, 2015 11:08 PM

By the way, Berna clamps can be a bit puzzling but they work wonderfully on round object as soon as you align both arms (if they make an angle, you can't set them as they  "escape"

Thank you all for coming José

  • Member since
    March 2015
Posted by Peaches on Sunday, May 17, 2015 9:31 PM

Another couple of things I just did, is I took a 1/2x1/2 block of wood cut it in half threw it into a vise and drilled into the center of the wood.  This gives me the exact size jig I need for round parts such as missles and what not.  I set them in there, throw a piece of polystyrene dowel/rod in there and it allows me to clamp it down much easier that previously.

I also have discovered the electric toothbrush sander (3.97 at Wally World)

WIP:
Academy F-18 (1/72)

On Deck 

MH-60G 1:48 (Minicraft)

C-17 1/144

KC-135R 1/144

Academy F-18(1/72)

Ting Ting Ting, WTF is that....

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: St louis
Posted by Raualduke on Monday, May 18, 2015 7:31 AM

Electric toothbrush? That's actually a great idea. Farewell and adieu to my fair Spanish ladies, etc,etc

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, May 18, 2015 8:34 AM

I keep particle board on hand (it is cheap) and frequently make jigs by drilling various holes in it.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2015
  • From: Detroit, MURDER CITY
Posted by RudyOnWheels on Monday, May 18, 2015 12:19 PM

I will look for some of the shapers. I have recently started using the "perfect plastic putty" by deluxe materials, and LOVE it. Any excess sands off very easily, and I found spreading it or finishing it off with a wet finger works wonders. I also picked up two small "quick clamps" (similar to ones made for wood working by Erwin) I also picked up a few adjustable Velcro straps at the hobby shop for 69 cents each. They were in the radio-controlled aircraft section, and had many different sizes.

Rudy

  • Member since
    March 2015
Posted by Peaches on Monday, May 18, 2015 11:51 PM

www.walmart.com/.../14264848

I would recommend getting some of the Arm and hammer heads so you can put different grits on there.  For example, you need 1000 grit, just take off the 500 grit head and throw the 1000 grit head on there.

www.youtube.com/watch  

I use the circular ones myself for the velcro my self from HL.

WIP:
Academy F-18 (1/72)

On Deck 

MH-60G 1:48 (Minicraft)

C-17 1/144

KC-135R 1/144

Academy F-18(1/72)

Ting Ting Ting, WTF is that....

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Sunday, June 21, 2015 10:24 AM

I think this one is different .

I use ship blocks and cradles made from LEGO parts . That and large coils ( soft springs ) stapled to a board .Set the ship hull down in it and work on above deck items for hours without a wobble or roll . Now here's where both interact . Basic stands for and aft - LEGO , midship -Tighter coils to raise the hull slightly for finishing .

  • Member since
    January 2014
  • From: Nampa, Idaho
Posted by jelliott523 on Wednesday, June 24, 2015 12:47 PM

BlackSheepTwoOneFour
LOL! I swipe a few from my office

Someone stole my stapler....

On the Bench:  Lots of unfinished projects!  Smile

  • Member since
    August 2008
Posted by tankerbuilder on Friday, July 10, 2015 1:33 PM

Aww ;

Was that yours? Sorry -LOL.

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by USAFASME7 on Thursday, August 6, 2015 10:20 AM

Cheap tweezers with prongs bent inward. Great for holding wheels for airbrushing!

--Rob

Glue Sniffer since 1977

  • Member since
    April 2015
Posted by LrdSatyr8 on Thursday, December 17, 2015 7:57 AM

I do alot of epoxy putty work and instead of spending a load of cash on specialized tools, I create my own using coat hanger wire.  I cut a length of wire (maybe 4-5 inches) and then take it outside and pound one end flat with a hammer on concrete.  I do several wire pieces  this way.  Then I use a Dremel to shape and grind the pounded end to a desired shape.  I take two of the wires that I fabricated and roll some epoxie putty into a handle and stick two wires in both ends and smooth it out and let it dry.  Makes a great tool that I can use over and over again for just about any purpose.  One tool I use all the time has a small elongated spoon wit ha sharp edge that is great for smoothing out putty.  The other end is a flat drowel with a sharp tip for doing detail work.  I've also used this method to make scribers, holders, glue loops, and various other tiny tools for working with and all are custom made for what *I* need them to do.  And all for the price of an old wire hanger in the closet and a bit of epoxy putty! :)

Things to think about... What would happen if you put a werewolf on the moon?  h is just a little chair and the human brain named itself!

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Thursday, December 17, 2015 1:34 PM

Often times I find fuselage halves have enough warp, that there is not a natural flush contact area completely around. If it's minor I use rubber bands, if a major fit issue I use properly sized radiator hose clamps from the auto parts store. 

To avoid either rubber bands or hose clamps touching the area to be cemented and causing a mess, I use small basswood square stock placed under the clamps, on either side of the joining line and close to it.

That keeps the cemented area clear of contact with the clamps, and also places pressure downward and inward on the surfaces to be joined. I find that makes for a tighter surface fit, less open area with no need for filler at the seam, then usually only primer with sanding to prepare for paint.

Sounds sorta Rube Goldberg, but it works for me. I hate filler.

Patrick 

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Earth
Posted by DiscoStu on Thursday, December 17, 2015 2:25 PM

Not necessarily a home-made tool, but my wife is a musician and I stumbled across a bottle of valve lubricant called Blue Juice that she uses on her French horn.  That stuff is THE best lubricant I have ever used on an airbrush.  I simply spray some through at the end of a painting session after cleaning and the airbrush operations stay silky-smooth.  I think a bottle is $4.99 and lasts forever!

"Ahh the Luftwaffe. The Washington Generals of the History Channel" -Homer Simpson

  

 

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