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"Greenhouse" masking question

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  • Member since
    September, 2003
  • From: Chesapeake VA
"Greenhouse" masking question
Posted by out04 on Tuesday, August 15, 2017 12:24 PM

I've completed two kits recently, one canopy masked with BMF (foil), the other with Tamiya tape.  Both materials took some of the frame paint away when they were removed.  Acrylic paint was used for both, canopies washed but not futured.

Is it mandatory to trace around the masks with a blade before removal?

Does the problem go away if enamels are used?

I've got a Dauntless and a P-38 in the pipeline so.....

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, August 15, 2017 2:02 PM

I get the same issue with enamels, thats whether i am useing Tamiya tape or Euard masks.

''I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Trumpeter 1/35th AS90   

  • Member since
    December, 2013
  • From: Orlando Florida
Posted by route62 on Tuesday, August 15, 2017 2:16 PM

I always give a light trace with a sharp razor prior to peeling the mask since there are usually several layers of paint and clear coats.  

  • Member since
    August, 2012
Posted by JMorgan on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 1:38 AM

It is a good idea, once the frames are painted, to immediately remove the mask. This prevents chipping, especially for glosses.

  • Member since
    September, 2003
  • From: Chesapeake VA
Posted by out04 on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 8:29 AM

Can't pull it immediately when I have to layer two colors and weather to match the airframe.

  • Member since
    July, 2010
Posted by roony on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 10:29 AM

route62

I always give a light trace with a sharp razor prior to peeling the mask since there are usually several layers of paint and clear coats.  

 

I agree with route62.  It will be tiring on a SBD.

  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Winter Park, FL
Posted by fotofrank on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 12:22 PM

I'm finishing up an LT-6 at the moment. It took half a day to mask the canopy. I'd sure hate to screw up a paint job trying to peel off the masking. I also have an A-24 getting ready for paint. Haven't masked the canopy yet.

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, August 16, 2017 6:56 PM

out04

Can't pull it immediately when I have to layer two colors and weather to match the airframe.

 

Exactly. I usually paint with the canopies in place, even if I plan to have it open on the finished build. The masked closed canopy protects the cockpit. So it's dip in Future, allow to dry, mask canopy, glue/tack glue in place, paint, gloss, flat, and finally remove mask and open up canopy. I have literally had canopies masked for years on some shelf queens.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September, 2016
Posted by Retired In Kalifornia on Thursday, August 24, 2017 11:26 PM

out04

I've completed two kits recently, one canopy masked with BMF (foil), the other with Tamiya tape.  Both materials took some of the frame paint away when they were removed.  Acrylic paint was used for both, canopies washed but not futured.

Is it mandatory to trace around the masks with a blade before removal?

Does the problem go away if enamels are used?

I've got a Dauntless and a P-38 in the pipeline so.....

 

If there is substantial paint build-up around the masking edges use a new Xacto No.11 to trim around them. I mostly use fresh Scotch Magic Mending Tape or equivalent for clear part masking, sometimes must use Tamiya or equivalent tapes for added ridgity around curves. Biggest issue always for me is removing masks without excessive paint splintering, some enamels splinter more than others, splinters electrically charged stick to everything! 

  • Member since
    January, 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Friday, August 25, 2017 8:38 PM

I haven't had a problem, using enamels.

I use Tamiya tape...unless it's an Eduard kit, that comes with masks. Even after the masking has been in place for weeks, I still haven't had any issues with it peeling up more than it should.

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Saturday, August 26, 2017 2:54 PM

The only way I see that happening is if too much paint was sprayed. For dark colors I spray a light coat of black first. This thin translucent black coat will cut down on the final paint color coats eliminating paint buildup. For light colors I shoot a light or medium grey first.

It's  a good idea to remove the masking asap but sometimes due to certain situations, the masking will remain in place for weeks at a time. So far, I've  had no issues in doing so.

  • Member since
    December, 2017
Posted by WWII_AC on Sunday, December 03, 2017 8:02 PM

I just got through masking a Tamiya F4U-1A canopy and front windscreen. Tamiya was kind enough to supply the masking tape. Smile

But, the whole time I was applying the mask I kept wondering why do manufacturers still mold the canopy glass and the canopy frame as a one piece clear part anyway? Given the improvements and advancements in the manufacturing process over the last 4 decades you would think they (someone) would have found a way to mold the clear glass separate from the frame - using a recess to allow the glass to sit flush with the frame once glass is applied. This whole masking tape thing just feels so...1970's!

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, December 06, 2017 6:00 PM

WWII_AC

I just got through masking a Tamiya F4U-1A canopy and front windscreen. Tamiya was kind enough to supply the masking tape. Smile

But, the whole time I was applying the mask I kept wondering why do manufacturers still mold the canopy glass and the canopy frame as a one piece clear part anyway? Given the improvements and advancements in the manufacturing process over the last 4 decades you would think they (someone) would have found a way to mold the clear glass separate from the frame - using a recess to allow the glass to sit flush with the frame once glass is applied. This whole masking tape thing just feels so...1970's!

 

Sounds good in theory but try assembling a complex greenhouse like a Val, Judy, etc. will be quite a project. I rather use commercially made paint masks when available to make it an easier task.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, December 07, 2017 8:49 AM

Whether I need to use hobby knife to outline tape or mask edges depends on how many coats of paint I put on.  For just a coat or two, I usually don't.  However, if some problems occur that require more coats than that on airframe, then I find I must use the knife.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March, 2015
Posted by JohnnyK on Thursday, December 07, 2017 4:17 PM

I use Eduards masks and Tamyia Silver Plate. I have never had a problem. I also mask the back side of the greehouse with blue tape. This is the greenhouse for a 1/48 B-29. Masking this by hand would not work for me.

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