SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Styrene cement drying time

283 views
5 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    September, 2010
  • From: California
Styrene cement drying time
Posted by mikeymize on Friday, September 01, 2017 1:52 PM

  Hello All. I'm using Dragon's Magic Tracks for the first time on their King Tiger kit (6840). I'm interested in knowing what the best cement would be ; i.e, allow me sufficient cure time to mold the tracks properly. Any and all suggestions are welcomed.

"Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time".


  • Member since
    April, 2013
Posted by KnightTemplar5150 on Friday, September 01, 2017 4:58 PM

The "Magic Tracks" in that kit were designed to snap together, but they won't hold together long using that method. I remember forming short lengths of track to curve around the idler wheel and drive sprockets using Tamiya extra thin cement to bond things together, but with the long runs on the top and bottom, I used standard Testor's liquid cement. Allow it to sit for around 15 minutes to firm up, but remain flexible enough to form properly over the road wheels. With particularly stubborn links, just a touch of cement can be used to re-soften the bond to allow you to reposition the link a bit.

  • Member since
    May, 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Friday, September 01, 2017 5:18 PM

Hello!

I think lacquer thinner should be just fine for you. Not all of them are the same, though, so it's worth it to make some test before the first serious use. Such thinner evaporates and dries more slowly than pure acetone or MEK, because there are some cheaper components mixed in and most of the time it makes it perfect for glueing plastic parts. Hope it helps, have a nice day

PaweĊ‚

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    September, 2010
  • From: California
Posted by mikeymize on Friday, September 01, 2017 7:36 PM

KnightTemplar5150

The "Magic Tracks" in that kit were designed to snap together, but they won't hold together long using that method. I remember forming short lengths of track to curve around the idler wheel and drive sprockets using Tamiya extra thin cement to bond things together, but with the long runs on the top and bottom, I used standard Testor's liquid cement. Allow it to sit for around 15 minutes to firm up, but remain flexible enough to form properly over the road wheels. With particularly stubborn links, just a touch of cement can be used to re-soften the bond to allow you to reposition the link a bit.

 

   Your suggestion sounds reasonable enough. My particular concern is being able to get the tracks in the shape required and then painting, weathering, etc. I plan on doing this by building up two separate track lengths per side. In this cas an upper and lower. This would allow me to avoid trying to mask off idler wheels et al. , with the tracks installed. 

"Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time".


  • Member since
    September, 2010
  • From: California
Posted by mikeymize on Friday, September 01, 2017 7:37 PM
I never would've thought about your idea. Sounds like a wonderful creative solution. Thanks so much!

"Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time".


  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Northern New Jersey
Posted by Tojo72 on Wednesday, September 13, 2017 3:10 PM
I use Tamiya Extra Thin,I assemble the whole side minus a couple of links,apply the glue,wait 30 minutes,then flex the entire run around the roadwheels,sprockets,and idlers,work in the sag if any,then I allow to dry overnight.The next day I carefully remove the run,paint,weather and put back on the tank,if it needs a link or two I will add them and close the loop. Here is an example

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS

SUBSCRIBER-ONLY CONTENT
FREE NEWSLETTER