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New to photo etched how to use?

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  • Member since
    March, 2018
  • From: Houston tx
New to photo etched how to use?
Posted by Lyle hinton on Sunday, March 11, 2018 6:11 PM

Hello all

I'm new to using photo etched parts I'm building a trumpeter t38 that had a few but I'm unsure how to attach and what to use to attach  any help would be very appricited..

Thanks lyle

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Monday, March 12, 2018 9:45 AM

Some folks use CA glue, super glue but I use this stuff:

VMS Flexy 5K CA Glue for Photo-Etched

https://www.michtoy.com/item-VMS-CM01-PE-FLEXY_5K_CA_Glue_for_Photo_Etched_25ml.html

This stuff works far better than the others. Watch the video link and decide for yourself.

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, March 12, 2018 10:04 AM

I use CA and a pair of fine nosed pliers. Don't feel you have to use it all, often the kit parts are more sutable for some pieces.

''I am a Norfolk man, and i glory in being so''

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Phantom FG.1

  • Member since
    March, 2018
  • From: Houston tx
Posted by Lyle hinton on Monday, March 12, 2018 11:10 AM

Thanks soo much for the link it really answered a lot of ???. Can u use a toothpick as an applicator noticed he was using wire? I'm going to order some 5k ca glue for myself .. Thanks for the help

Lyle

  • Member since
    March, 2018
  • From: Houston tx
Posted by Lyle hinton on Monday, March 12, 2018 11:10 AM

Appreciate the help

Thanks lyle

  • Member since
    August, 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Monday, March 12, 2018 3:09 PM

Yes toothpick is good, fine wire as well.

 

Some will take regular sewing needles, in various sizes, and cut off about half the eye, drill a small hole in the end of a 1/4 or 3/8 piece of wood dowel, stick the pointy end of the needle in the dowel and use that.  Cheap and easy, one of the better toolsl I've used for CA.

  • Member since
    March, 2018
  • From: Houston tx
Posted by Lyle hinton on Monday, March 12, 2018 4:17 PM

That's a great idea with the needle I'm going to try that... Thanks for the help

Lyle

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Monday, March 12, 2018 5:27 PM

Crying Go back before it’s too late. 

  • Member since
    August, 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Monday, March 12, 2018 5:33 PM

You can also forget the fancy PE bending machines.  i simply use two wood chisels ,one to hold the part down at the bend and one to bend the part.

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    March, 2018
  • From: Houston tx
Posted by Lyle hinton on Monday, March 12, 2018 5:47 PM

Go back before what's too late????   Thanks on the bending tip 

  • Member since
    December, 2013
  • From: Orlando Florida
Posted by route62 on Monday, March 12, 2018 6:06 PM

Depending on the size of the PE part, where and what it will be glued to, you will want to have several types of glues on hand.  Along with CA glue, both thick and thin, slow and fast setting, have CA accelerator on hand as well.

I also will use epoxies, white and clear glues, caulk, silicone, clear gloss enamels right from the bottle and tacky glues.  I have even used future.  You will find with PE that no one glue does it all.

Glue is not the only way to affix PE.  I have made holding tabs with styrene to hold PE parts.  I have also cut groves and slots to hold PE.

Not all PE parts are better then the plastic part it may be replacing so check both options to see which you like better.  I have also used the PE part or the fret it was cut out of as a template to make a better part with styrene.  

You can scan your PE sheet into your computer and print paper templates to cut parts from styrene.  You can also use the scan to print on clear plastic sheet to make parts.  Have fun with it and think outside the box.

Don't throw away left over parts or the fret.  You can use the parts for other builds and you can cut the fret with scissors to make straps, seat belts, tie downs and more.

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Monday, March 12, 2018 6:06 PM

Lyle hinton

Go back before what's too late????   Thanks on the bending tip 

 

 

sorry,just joking about how frustrating PE can be,especially those microscopic pieces,they aren’t made for my fingers.My hats off to anyone who can deal with some of that stuff.I confine myself to fenders,schurzen,vent sceeens,maybe some railings.you got some good advice here,good luck and have fun,but don’t let it drain the life out of you.

  • Member since
    August, 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Monday, March 12, 2018 6:08 PM

On bending, you can also use a couple of single edge razor blades the same way.  If you keep using it, get a set of small flat nose pliers with the nylon inserts on the jaws.  At times easier than anything else.  Available at craft stores like Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc. I got a nice set of 4 jewelry pliers at Hobby Lobby for under $20. Included a pair of scissors and a pair of tweezers. 

You'll probably want a couple of sets of tweezers in straight and bent nose as well.  Handy for placing the darn stuff.

 

Before it's too late, for me referred to a whole new set of language skills, even for an old mil spec vet, and a whole new set of frustrations.  But I didn't learn, keep aquiring PEfor various kits.

  • Member since
    February, 2012
Posted by Liegghio on Monday, March 12, 2018 7:41 PM

All great advice here. Another trick I taught myself recently: some tiny PE parts are meant to be installed standing up, but they easily get pulled over by surface tension from the glue, and also will have weak glue joints. When you are removing these parts from the sheet try to cut them with a nub or spike on the mounting end. That way they can be glued into drilled holes in the model. That worked for a set of minuscule lifting eyes I added to some 1/72 bombs.

 

  • Member since
    March, 2018
  • From: Houston tx
Posted by Lyle hinton on Tuesday, March 13, 2018 6:47 AM

I thank everyone for all the great advice... I knew this was the plan e to get the answers I needed .. you guys rock

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, March 13, 2018 7:06 AM

I built one of those fancy bending machines, and never use it.  I use a small straightedge rule to hold part at bend line, an Xacto blade to slip under the section to be bent, and raise the blade to bend.

I use the cutoff needle tool to apply glue.  I use either thinned white glue or CA for glue.  For long pieces like a ship railing, I use the CA to tack it in place several places, then come along with the white glue along the entire seam.  A really strong bond is not needed- the parts weigh so little that inertial forces will not pop them off- only direct bumping.  That is why white glue works so well.

Painting parts can be a bit of a problem.  A good metal primer is needed for larger parts. I paint most parts on the sprue on kits where most parts will be a common color.  Clean the sheet very well.  The metal is immune to most solvents, so you can use pretty strong stuff to clean.

A good pair of tweezers is important when applying PE.  If the tweezers can get the points misaligned, they can launch PE into the twilight zone.  I use ones that are broad in one direction, thin in the other so points do not misalign.

 

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August, 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Tuesday, March 13, 2018 7:47 AM
I use a sewing needle with half the eye cut off held in a pinvice for CA. Fly tying scissors for cutting PE from the fret. Also a good dip in vinegar will help etch the metal making it easier to get paint to stick

Clint

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Tuesday, March 13, 2018 11:09 AM

When I was where you are some years ago, I did some searching online and found many good step by step articles. Spent a few days reading if I recall. The pics really helped and lots of the mystery went away.

It is pretty daunting to look at that PE fret for the first time.

-Greg

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Tuesday, March 13, 2018 11:10 AM

Rambo
a good dip in vinegar will help etch the metal making it easier to get paint to stick

Now there's a good idea. Thanks!

-Greg

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, March 14, 2018 9:24 AM

Greg

 

 
Rambo
a good dip in vinegar will help etch the metal making it easier to get paint to stick

 

Now there's a good idea. Thanks!

 

Use pure, white vinager, however.  Some spiced vinegars have spices and stuff in them that can leave residue.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Wednesday, March 14, 2018 11:02 AM

Don Stauffer

 

 
Greg

 

 
Rambo
a good dip in vinegar will help etch the metal making it easier to get paint to stick

 

Now there's a good idea. Thanks!

 

 

 

Use pure, white vinager, however.  Some spiced vinegars have spices and stuff in them that can leave residue.

 

Don Stauffer

 

 
Greg

 

 
Rambo
a good dip in vinegar will help etch the metal making it easier to get paint to stick

 

Now there's a good idea. Thanks!

 

 

 

Use pure, white vinager, however.  Some spiced vinegars have spices and stuff in them that can leave residue.

 

Thank you, Don. I'll make note of that.

I look forward to trying it.

-Greg

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