How thick should Squadron White Putty be?

Mike,
Sounds like the tube you are using may be old, and the ingredients have separated. You may only be applying the solvent vehicle. Try sticking a toothpick or other long, narrow object down the mouth of the tube and stir/agitate as vigorously as possible. Putty should have the consistency of --er--putty... much thicker, but pliable...not like the maple syrup you refer to. If stirring/agitation doesn't produce better results, it may be time to get another tube.
Gip Winecoff

styrene is absolutly correct. I had an old tube laying around for a couple of years and that's what happened. The tube was probably laying around in the store or wherehouse for a while. Extreme tempurature fluctuations could also make that happen. So if your tube was in a garage for a few years...etc. Bite the bullet and by a new tube.

I my travels, I've found that Squadron putty is really inconsistent as for as consistency. Mine comes out of the tube almost dried and is really difficult to work with. Instead, I use Bondo spot glazing putty.

QUOTE: Originally posted by thevinman styrene is absolutly correct. I had an old tube laying around for a couple of years and that's what happened. The tube was probably laying around in the store or wherehouse for a while. Extreme tempurature fluctuations could also make that happen. So if your tube was in a garage for a few years...etc. Bite the bullet and by a new tube.

Vinny,

I just bought this tube at the hobby store about a week ago.

Mike

QUOTE: Originally posted by styrene If stirring/agitation doesn't produce better results, it may be time to get another tube.

Thanks Gip.

I put a long piece of small diameter rod down the tube and stirred it around the best I could. Now it is about the consistancy of thick pancake batter or even a bit thicker. Is that about right or should I get another tube?
I should have left the price tag on it as I would take it back to the LHS and ask for another tube.

Mike

MikeV,
If you are able to get a thick pancake batter consistency, then you should be ok. Your tube could have been in the hobby shop or sitting in a where house for a while. You can also use acetone nail polish remover to thin the putty if it dries to fast. You can also use CA to thin it. But be careful because sometimes the thinned putty will eat plastic a little if you leave it on a spot (your not intending to fill or sand) for too long. Some light sanding takes care of the extent of thinned putty damage, but its best to try and avoid it in the first place. Also, if you use the cement to thin, you should not wait too long to sand because the CA/putty will dry harder than the plastic and it will be a pain to sand.

Thanks Vinny.

I put some on last night in that real thin state and it looks like thick, shiny paint now.
I hope it sands off and smooths out allright.

Mike

wow ive had a tube of Squadron White Putty for about 5 years, ive just got it from an old kit box and its like toothpaste. i was going to use it for Zimeret on a tank.

Do you think it would be ok to use, i hope its not like water halfway down the tube

Jon,
If toothpast is the consistency you're experiencing, I'd say the stuff is about the right thickness. Usually, the heavier components will settle on the bottom, or wherever the lowest spot of the tube was. If the ingredients have separated, you should get the solvent portion first. If you're still concerned, try doing what I suggested for Mike in the above posts, and you should be OK.

QUOTE: I just bought this tube at the hobby store about a week ago

Mike,
Just because you bought the tube a week ago doesn't mean it hasn't been sitting on the retailer's shelf, or maybe even the wholesaler's shelf for weeks, months, or even a year or two. Most retailers outside of the grocery business don't realize that expendables like paint, putties, super glues, etc. all have some sort of shelf life, and will, over time, go bad. I don't exactly know what the solution is except to encourage your retailer and his wholesaler to rotate their stocks on some sort of regular basis to ensure you are getting the freshest stuff he has. Only trouble is that if the material doesn't move, then you (we) get stuck with what they sell us. Most of the time it's not a problem, but occasionally you'll buy that one tube of putty....

Gip Winecoff

QUOTE: Originally posted by styrene Mike, Just because you bought the tube a week ago doesn't mean it hasn't been sitting on the retailer's shelf, or maybe even the wholesaler's shelf for weeks, months, or even a year or two.

That is probably the truth as this HobbyTown USA seems to cater more to the R/C crowd and games, etc. Next time I buy another tube I will open and squeeze each one out in the store to make sure it is good.

Mike

Mike you might want to check out Swanny's fencing method for filling seams. It's saved me a lot of hassle time and sanding.

Squadron shrinks over time(can even after it dries) it also contains toluene which is harmfull to styrene in large amounts so the best thing to do is layer it on....as far as the right consistency....well Ive never had a problem with seperation and I still have a tube of green and 2 of white which are 7 yrs old.....

Thanks Chris.

I did use Swanny's method. I took a strip of masking tape and attached one end to my scribing tool to get it through to the opposite end of the intake and then pulled it off and stuck it down. It worked good even though the putty was too thin.

Mike

Sorry for bumping an old post...but I recently got Squadron white (this is my first time using putty) and its pretty thick and clumpy. Is it supposed to be smoother and more liquidy? It was kind of hard to use...it was almost like clay!

Your problem is just the opposite,  the some of the solvent part of the putty has evaporated, leaving it hard & clumpy.   This too may be due to the tube being not sealed tightly as it sat on the retailer/wholesaler's shelves for who knows how long.  As posted above, putty should be a toothpaste consistency as it comes out of the tube.

My prefered solvent-based putty is Bondo Spot Glazing putty from the auto parts store.  The jumbo-economy sized tube costs much less than Squadron's small tube with a model manufacturer's logo.   It is red,  so it might need an extra shot of primer to cover the color against light plastic.  However, it dries quickly,  sands smooth,  feathers well, and shows minimal shrinkage.

Some have had some measure of success in mixing thick putty with a solvent such as glue to thin it for easier application. 

Well, I just sanded it last night...everything turned out OK...thank god!

Ok... You guys sparked me to offer my 

Spot / glazzing putty should have the consistency of thick toothpaste or a bit thicker.
It is best applied in "thin" layers. Multiple layers are fine for building up to the needed fill level sanding between layers of course.

To apply the putties it is best to use a semi-flexible applicator. I use such things as old credit cards (those junk mail pre-approved ones are best as they are thinner [my favorite applicator for modeling]), the automotive light blue applicators meant for Bondo, the black rubber auto applicators (meant for putty), artist paint spatula's, etc... I cut the applicators down to size to fit my needs.

If the compound & solvent separated and you notice either a liquid substance or a solid substance (depending on how the tube was stored) coming from the tube. You can screw the cap back on and start mushing, squishing, and rolling the tube between your fingers in hopes of mixing the ingredients back together. If they don't mix together very well and the consistency is not brought back to it's original state, it's time for a new tube. You can end up with adhesion problems, drying problems or cracking problems.

Should a person use "model" putty or "automotive" glazing/putty?
It's a personal choice as they are pretty much the same thing.
Personally, I use the much cheaper auto putties.
Try different brands and colors, I'll bet you will find one that you like working with.

I've worked with body filler, lead, fiberglass, and putties for years in the 1:1 automotive field. What and how I learned working with the products there I carried over to my car model building hobby. I don't tape off for putties, I don't use nail polish remover to smooth it out, I just slightly and quickly wet sand it. I might have an extra step or two in priming, but no big deal as my primer is also cheap and fast drying.

Ok... I'm done ranting.

Hope something is of use to someone.

jhande wrote:

Ok... You guys sparked me to offer my  Spot / glazzing putty should have the consistency of thick toothpaste or a bit thicker. It is best applied in "thin" layers. Multiple layers are fine for building up to the needed fill level sanding between layers of course. To apply the putties it is best to use a semi-flexible applicator. I use such things as old credit cards (those junk mail pre-approved ones are best as they are thinner [my favorite applicator for modeling]), the automotive light blue applicators meant for Bondo, the black rubber auto applicators (meant for putty), artist paint spatula's, etc... I cut the applicators down to size to fit my needs. If the compound & solvent separated and you notice either a liquid substance or a solid substance (depending on how the tube was stored) coming from the tube. You can screw the cap back on and start mushing, squishing, and rolling the tube between your fingers in hopes of mixing the ingredients back together. If they don't mix together very well and the consistency is not brought back to it's original state, it's time for a new tube. You can end up with adhesion problems, drying problems or cracking problems. Should a person use "model" putty or "automotive" glazing/putty? It's a personal choice as they are pretty much the same thing. Personally, I use the much cheaper auto putties. Try different brands and colors, I'll bet you will find one that you like working with. I've worked with body filler, lead, fiberglass, and putties for years in the 1:1 automotive field. What and how I learned working with the products there I carried over to my car model building hobby. I don't tape off for putties, I don't use nail polish remover to smooth it out, I just slightly and quickly wet sand it. I might have an extra step or two in priming, but no big deal as my primer is also cheap and fast drying. Ok... I'm done ranting. Hope something is of use to someone.

I use the glazing stuff also, but I do tape off small details(e.g.= rivets, panel lines, body logos, window trim and door handles.etc.) just to avoid gooberin, them up. Acetone/nail polish remv. works well to thin the putty to a point you can even brush it on in very small amounts and in hard to sand areas.

a little denser than toothpaste.

My putty was really thick. I squeezed a bunch into a paint bottle and added some acetone. I mixed it up and now it's like pancake batter. I use a toothpick to mix and apply it.