Non brass PE

I have recently used two different sets that were not brass. Both appeared to be the same, but, one of them acted just like brass, easy to cut and shape. The other, I'm guessing was stainless steel, it was an absolute nightmare to work with, tough to cut and a bit(h to bend. I guess the only way to tell, is when you cut it. If it cuts off the sprue easily, like brass, it aint so bad. If it's hard to cut, you're gonna be cursing!!!

Capnjohn

I see my new PE sets from Eduard are not Brass. I think they must be thin steel? My question is are they to be annealed as you would the brass type?

         Thanks for the help

The Eduard sets are coming in nickel-plated brass.

 I find it very nice to work with though some modelers prefer to sand the contact points a bit to ensure a good bond

Annealing  and soldering & glueing is no different, but---

Annealing  is a plus for some parts and not for others-And more needed on some sheets than others-Some bends are easier with stiff material, some not

If you sand the edges, you will find out it's plain old brass with a coating....Why they do this is a big Question to me, but hey....who am I??

When sanded, you're able to solder it just like the other brands using brass only PE. Annealing works the same as brass PE....

Good luck, John.

Stainless steel is a popular PE material.  The PE sets I have used that were SS were not Eduard, so don't know for sure what material theirs are.  The Micro Mark do-it-yourself PE set includes both brass and SS stock.

I ordinarily do not anneal either brass or SS for simple right angle bends, but rolling into tubes as for WW1 machine guns does require annealing for the brass. I have not worked with SS machine gun tubes, however, but if it is stiff, rolling into tubes likely would require annealing.