True Grit

If I'm looking for super-smooth finishes, I've got a set of sanding pads (foam centres with grit on each side) that run from 2,400 to 12,000 (I think!). The higher the number, the more "individual grits per inch" you get. You generally start with a lower number & work your way up to the higher numbers. Sometimes you get lucky with a really smooth finish & just go right to one of the higher numbers right away. The higher numbers you can hardly feel with your fingers, more like a buffer than sandpaper.

Like all things in this hobby, try it a few times & you'll get the hang of it.

I use 600 to 2000 grit, european grade. And always wet sand for a snooth finish:

http://www.mibnet.se/home-improvement/sandpaper-grit-size-comparison-between-european-and-us-standards.html

If between coats- i.e., there will be another coat on top, I use 600.  If I am pretty much done except for a polish I will use a finer grit, say 2400.

I usually start with 320 grit, then 600 and most of the time that's good enough.  Sometimes I finish up with 1600 depending on the model.  Cars, for example, really need a glass-like finish and that's where I would go up into the thousands range, and finish with polishing systems, such as Novus makes.  But only use polishes after you're done painting, they may leave a waxy coating that will prevent paint from sticking.

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If you are looking for a super smooth finish dust will be a major enemy.

After sanding do a final dust removal with a tack cloth.

Unless I plan on painting immediately I place the model in a sealed container or inside a plastic bag to keep dust from the atmosphere from settling on it.

You will also sand between coats.

Check some of the model car forums forr tips and techniques if you are looking for that showroom looking finish.

What is a tack cloth? Not something we get in the UK. Can you describe it.

Fill your hands, you son of a *******!

DogTailRed2

What is a tack cloth? Not something we get in the UK. Can you describe it.

Seems like something that should be available in the UK. Maybe it goes by a different name.

Tack cloth is a lint free cotton gauze that has a sticky substance on it. It does a great job of removing fine dust particles. The sticky substance does not transfer to the model. It can be reused a few times but should be considered a consumable that will need to be replaced.

It is used extensively in the furniture finishing and auto body painting industries. Any place that sells supplies for these should carry it.

I've seen it with the stains and varnishes in hardware stores.

I've also seen it in the auto body repair supplies section of auto parts stores.

I'm pretty sure I've even seen Testors selling a sheet of it.

About $2 for a 18x36 inch pad of cloth. Its very thin.

Using this has become part of my pre paint routine.

All good advice, but...

Before you get too excited about sanding paint, do the most basic thing. Don't handle your model without latex gloves, or super clean hands. Hand cleaning means no snacks, soap and water and dry with a towel.

Rub down the model with paper towel all the time, at least once every hour in a session. Keep the model in a box or under a towel between painting sessions, and do a clean and rub down before painting.

mitsdude

If you are looking for a super smooth finish dust will be a major enemy.

After sanding do a final dust removal with a tack cloth.

Unless I plan on painting immediately I place the model in a sealed container or inside a plastic bag to keep dust from the atmosphere from settling on it.

You will also sand between coats.

Check some of the model car forums forr tips and techniques if you are looking for that showroom looking finish.

 

 

Hay Don.  Some say they use sander/buffers at a few thousands orbits ---- how and not remove hinges, handles, and etc..  If you buff between every spray I wonder - how.  Without leveling some things that you want to keep its detail.   I'm missing something I think!   (No it's still on my shoulders)     Bud

All of the sanding everyone is talking about is being done by hand, no power tools involved. I've never heard of using any type of buffer other than good old elbow grease.

BBAT222

Hay Don.  Some say they use sander/buffers at a few thousands orbits ---- how and not remove hinges, handles, and etc..  If you buff between every spray I wonder - how.  Without leveling some things that you want to keep its detail.   I'm missing something I think!   (No it's still on my shoulders)     Bud

No power sanding once primer is on.  And power sanding with my dremel along seams is only if no detail close by.  All else is hand work.

One other thing, someone recommends wiping model down frequently with paper towels.  Be careful, some brands of PT will scratch.   To be sure, when wiping down final coats I keep Kleenex near bench.  Very gentle, not likely to scratch.

Don Stauffer

 

 I have a couple of friends who spray a fine mist of water in their shop before they paint.  They claim this settles dust from the air, but I am afraid of getting things wet so I have not tried that myself.

 

It's a good technique. A lot of paint shops use what is called a wet wall to keep the dust down. That is pretty much just  a waterfall along one wall to catch the dust from painting. I guess you don't need one if you have a fancy downdraft paint booth. Depending on where you paint simulating the benefits of a wet wall might be difficult to do without making a mess.

Tack cloth is a lint free cotton gauze that has a sticky substance on it. It does a great job of removing fine dust particles. The sticky substance does not transfer to the model.

The sticky substance is bees-wax...

I have a couple of friends who spray a fine mist of water in their shop before they paint.  They claim this settles dust from the air, but I am afraid of getting things wet so I have not tried that myself.

It might help them psychologically,  but no.. You can't spray enough water in a fine enough mist to knock down the dust in a room with water without dampening the area...  Done enough asbestos abatement to know..

  If your room is carpeted, fergit it... Unless you dampen the carpet as well...

Best bet is a box-fan in an opposing window (turned around to exhaust and on "High") to keep the airborne dust moving away from you....