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Paint overspray/fumes vs dust

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Paint overspray/fumes vs dust
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, October 5, 2011 9:47 AM

It seems that when we paint with either rattlecans or airbrush, we want to control two conditions: the amount of overspray and fumes from the paint, and the amount of dust that gets on the freshly painted model surface. 

I have been analysing a lot lately the design of my spray booth (home built).  I have seen a number of discussions in these forums about the direction the air should flow in a spray booth- down, up, towards the back, etc.  My current booth sucks towards the back.  I have a light in the center of the top, so an updraft is out.  Maybe it is a false rationale, but a downdraft flow seems to invite dust and dry overspray onto model.

But, then I remember back ages ago when a few times I worked with a laminar flow bench in a cleanroom.  In that case the air was filtered by the booth and exhausted out the front!  Nice for eliminating dust, but for painting it would do absolutely nothing to control overspray and fumes :-(  Are paint overspray elimination and dust control conflicting objectives, or is there some magic design that will eliminate both?  My current thinking is heading towards the conclusion that they are incompatible, and thinking of a seperate drying facility to supplement my booth.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Fort Worth, TX
Posted by RESlusher on Wednesday, October 5, 2011 10:05 AM

Don,

Here's what I do.  Keep in mind that I paint in my garage using a simple plywood box that I built myself.

After backing my wife's CRV out (she freaks as soon as she here's the compressor fire up!), I turn on the oscillating fan (one of those standing, floor models) that pushes the air out of the garage.  I've also got a cut-out in the rear of the top of my booth where I originally was planning to mount a flourescent light.  These two things combine to give me air flow that moves from the front to the rear then up and out.

As far as the dust issue, I use an old acrylic display case.  I only do 1/35 armor so the hull and a most of the smaller sub-assemblies fit under the "protective dome" of the display case.   Something else I've done in the past is use a beach towel and a couple thumb tacks to make a "curtain" to put over the front of the booth.

I'm sure there are better alternatives; but this is a low cost one that works well for me. 

Richard S.

On the bench:  AFV Club M730A1 Chaparral

On deck:  Tamiya Marder 1A2

In the hole:  Who knows what's next!

 

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Wednesday, October 5, 2011 10:09 AM

A conundrum...

Gunze Sangyo (GSI Creos, Mr Hobby, Mr Color....) seem to be thinking along the same lines & now have a drying cabinet as well as a "booth";

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Fort Worth, TX
Posted by RESlusher on Wednesday, October 5, 2011 10:17 AM

Milairjunkie

A conundrum...

Gunze Sangyo (GSI Creos, Mr Hobby, Mr Color....) seem to be thinking along the same lines & now have a drying cabinet as well as a "booth";

http://www.mr-hobby.com/itemlist/_src/sc820/GT04.jpg

 

Now that's slick!!  How much does that go for?

 

Richard S.

On the bench:  AFV Club M730A1 Chaparral

On deck:  Tamiya Marder 1A2

In the hole:  Who knows what's next!

 

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Wednesday, October 5, 2011 2:28 PM

I think it will work out at about $175>$200, pricey but nice - it's 100V DC......

I see that GSI are also now doing compressors with linear compressor pumps as are used in some of the new LG refrigeration units - now that sounds seriously interesting!!

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