Working with Putty

Try mixing it with some testors liquid glue...then you can use a brush to apply it.

One of the best tips for putty application is masking the area around the seam that you're filling with tape.  This aids in not applying the putty to areas, such as panel lines, that you don't want it to fill.  When sanding the seam, the tape protects raised detail that might otherwise be sanded away. 

Along with testors cement for thinning the squadron putty, try nail polish remover.  A little goes a long way, but will thin the stuff to allow for a smoother and easier application.  As for tools to do the job, I personally, use a ceap dental pick (and carving) set mainly, but you could aways use one of the #10 General purpose blades, the trusty #11 blade, or a #18 Chisel blade.  I've used all in the past to apply this stuff.  It may take a little longer working a little at a time but it pays off with less sanding time in the end. 

Try squadron sanding sticks.  Flexi-File makes a similar set (I think) and I had found a similar set from Steven's International that I like but haven't been able to find them again.  Hope it helps!

I would say try not using Squadron Putty...  I'm not a big fan of it, its expensive and there are problems with it- it doesnt thin well and tends to dry with air bubbles inside.  Try using an auto glazing putty, I have tried several and settle on a 3M product called Acry-Blue.  You can get a massive tube of it for $20 online- I bought a tube 2 years ago and have not even put a dent in it yet.

The Acryl-Blue thins with rubbing alcohol to any consistency you wish, just add more alcohol.  If you use tape along the edges of the seams and use a thin mix of the Acry-Blue you can use a pin to apply it.  the one catch is that if the mix is too thin it will take more than 1 application to fill the seam- depending on how deep it is.

For your other question- sanding small spaces.  It is really trial and error.  Try cutting a small piece of 600 grit sandpaper and wrap it on the end of a toothpic.  You can also cut pieces of popsicle stick to the size you want and glue sandpaper onto it.

Finally, the best tool for cleaning out panel lines I would say is a good panel scribing tool- the best I have found is the UMM Scribing Tool 01.

Good luck!

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Seams.html

This is a seam-filling tutorial on Swanny's site. I haven't tried it but I will be as soon as I get to the assembly of my spitfire within the next week or so.

Seams... Most modellers regard this as one of the most unwanted side effects of the hobby. With a bit of practice one can make work of this quickly and with good results.

I can tell you how i do it and hope some of my "tactics" may be helpful to you.

1. First prep the seams. Usually you can level the seam a bit by sanding and/ or scraping with a hobby knife. Especially fuselage halves have a tendency to not sit level at the seam so by performing this step you have less work later. Level the seam as much as possible.

2. Using the masking tape closely along the seam edge is a very invaluable tip. I wholeheartedly support it!

3. squirt a blob of your filler on a piece of laminated cardboard or plastic cup... whatever is at hand that is disposable and wont soak up the thinning agaent inside the putty.

4. Now i get a fresh, pointy toothpick and stir the putty a bit. A little blob should stay behind on your stick.

5. twisting it evenly between my fingers i apply a line of putty on the seam. After this is done i smear it inbetween the masking tape with my fingers. One smooth go provides better results as opposed to multiple in order not to remove what you just put on. Sometimes multiple coats are required to fill the seam.

(No need to tell you that step 4 and 5 need to be done rather swiftly as putty usually dries very quickly)

6. After say five to ten minutes remove the masking tape in a straight angle away from the seam. Made the mistake once of letting it sit too long.... It was nasty.... Too soon however and you might tear the putty off as well.

7. Let it cure. It will feel dry very very quickly but you really want it to sit overnight as the inside must cure as well.

8. Sand the seam. I love using nail stuff for this. Got a sponge like block of foam at rite aid once as well as some nail bussing sticks. They really work great. Use this kind of stuff for the rough sanding. You will be left with scratch marks though... Use some fine modelling sandpaper to buff that out.

9 After assessing the seam you may need to do the whole filling layer thing again if the seam was bigger. Sucks but the result will be a smooth seam and a nice non-plastic looking model

10. Pat yourself on the shoulder and have a beer while you admire your work! Lots of admiration calls for more beers.... Goes without saying

Hope my ten steps to putty heaven will be helpful...

Richard

I usually apply putty with an artist's pallet knife I got cheap at a craft store. It has a very nicely polished stainless steel blade that cleans off very well.  And by keeping it clean I find it smooths nicely. For very small daubs I do use end of toothpick, as in filling holes for attachments I do not use, etc.  But for seams and larger areas I use the pallet knife.

The Acryl-Blue stuff is great, very easy to sand. You can actually sand off to much if you are not careful.

But WOW it does dry FAST!!!!   Have some rubbing alcohol at the ready.

It develops a thin "skin" on it almost as soon as you squeeze out a blob of it.

I seem to remember somewhere it has been replaced by a new product.

2nd that, it dries fast- thats why you have to thin it with the alcohol.

As for a different name, I'm not sure about that.  What I can tell you is that I bought a tube about a year ago.  Also, 3M makes severla products- Acryl Blue, Acryl Green, Acry Black which are not all the same.  They vary in sandability.  Make sure to get the blue if you go with it.

Acryl Blue thread

/forums/t/137972.aspx

I use Testors contour putty, and thin it a little with rubbing alcohol.  As others have said, tape around where you don't want to get the putty.  The one thing that has helped me more than anything is going over the area I puttied with a q-tip dipped in alcohol.  I can often get it smooth enough that I do not have to sand.

However, it is difficult to get into tight spaces with a big q-tip end.  I haven't come up with any ideas on how to get into the very tight spots.  I am currently working on a 1/48 scale A-10, and it is plenty challenging for me.  My hats off to all you that work in 1/72 scale!

I no longer use putty anymore because it is inferior to super glue for filling imo.  I do at times used stretched sprue for filling as well.

I usually just get liquid or gel super glue (I just get 12 packs, brand doesn't really matter) and put a few drops into a lid from a plastic bottle (ie 20 oz coke bottle etc).  Then I dip a toothpick in and apply it to where I need it. Then I can either wait or use accelerator and sand it either immediately or within minutes.  For sanding I use either a sanding stick or 400 to 600 grit sandpaper.  I fold the sandpaper so I can get into really tight areas.

Now if I am doing really heavy duty filling, I will go with a mixture of talcum powder and future floor polish.