not protecting base color when wiping off oil wash

I have never used Future for other thing than clear parts. Judging from the folks here, it should have worked for you. My wild guess is that the Mineral Spirit you used might have something to do with your problem. I use Acryl Clear Gloss and Alclad 2 Aqua Gloss and knock on wood.

Are you letting the paint sit for at least a day so it cures? The Future should sit for a day or so before any other thing goes on it.

I think the problem has been not letting the gloss coat cure long enough.  I have found that I can scrub pretty hard over MM gloss clear coat if I let it cure for 3 days.  Next I will try the same experiment with Future.

Thanks for the reply.

Wow! Yeah but still I've let future cure for 12-18 hours then oil washed with no problems. What are you using to wipe off the oil wash? I've used turpenoid in the blue label only, and also humbrol enamel thinners, both very mild and won't take off any paint.

Yeah, ya definitely gotta give it at least 24 hours...48 would be better!

Tomorrow I hope to paint up an old CD case, and then give it a good coat of Future.  Then I will experiment on different sides with different cure times.

I had the same problem, went through alot of experiment with primers (tamiya spray, auto spray, mr surfacer, tamiya liquid) and different clear coats (future/ tamiya gloss/gunze gloss/humbrol satin) none worked for me so I switched to artists water colours and everything is cruising so far.

I wish you luck with whatever happens

Depending on the mineral spirits you're using they could be harsh enough to snarl through the various layers. You may want to try Mona Lisa Odorless Thinner or similar - I believe it's turpenoid, but a very mild mix that I've used over cured enamel without problem. If that can take it, acrylics should be able to.

I did a little experiment.

Used an old CD case, primed it with rattle-can gray, then airbrushed with tube artists acrylic thinned with Windex.  Then AB half with Future and half with Model Master clear gloss.  I thinned the MM with Windex, but did not thin the Future at all.  I only put on 1 coat, and it was 1 heavy coat.

After approximately 32 hours, both were pretty tough.  I could not break through either with a Q-tip and Windex.  I was able to break through with mineral spirits, but I really scrubbed it down, far more than would ever be required when taking off a wash.  So it would appear that either top coat will work if I give it enough time to cure.

I do not have a lot of experience, but I thought the MM was easier to use, and it had a smoother feel.  I also think it is easier to clean up.  Maybe the Future would have been smoother if I had thinned it and put on multiple coats.

I have not attempted to do any math, but certainly even thinned, the MM is way more expensive.  Still, overall a small part of the cost of building a kit.

Did you prime the surface before spraying your acrylics on???  this has alot to do with the paint bonding properly.....  acrylics just dont bond to plastic..... and you have to primer with a solvent based primer first....then you give the acrylic a decent surface to bond to..... especially true with Tamiya acrylics....      Akan acrylics have a purple solvent that is an excellent primer......   or I tend to use lacquer based primers.... like Alclad2 primer/ microfiller (in gray/black/gloss black or white)..... or I use Mr Surfacer 1000  thinned with Mr leveling thinner.... for exterior finishes....   depending on the surface....     that alclad is great for preserving minute detail because it is really thin....