Glue Help Please!

You could give the "Touch-N-Flow" a try.

I've tried using Pro-Weld with a brush & had little luck, unless the brush is overloaded (making the glue go all over the place), it's pretty much evaporated before I get it to the joint.

The "Touch-N-Flow" lets me get the adhesive into the joint in a far more controlled manner & works best when you have the part more or less assembled - with fuselage halves for example, hold them together loosely, so there almost touching  & run the "Touch-N-Flow" along the joint & capillary action will draw your adhesive into the joint. In addition, the angle the "Touch-N-Flow" is held at has an effect on the speed which your adhesive comes out at, low angle = slow, high angle = fast.

You can get them from many model shops / sites or direct here; http://www.flex-i-file.com/

PontiacRich

Hi All, 

It's been a while since I've posted here, so I'm not scene if this is the right for this question but here goes: I'm trying to get the hang of using liquid glue (Amberoid Pro weld).  the problem I'm having is that when I try to apply it (even Sparingly), it goes allover the Place.  I went out and bought some 2oz. containers with hypordermic ends (0.010"). Unfortunately, the glue is still going everywhere.

So here's the question: How do I control the thin glue? Would a smaller hypodermic work? If so, how small do I need?

thanks!

Tried the hypodermic route using 1cc insulin syringes w/ 28 ga needles (the larger the number the smaller the bore).   Totally unsatisfactory,  glue still ran uncontrollably.

My tool choice for thin liquid glues is a Loew & Cornell #801 White Nylon liner paintbrush - Double 0 size.  It has a thin pointed tip and carries a sufficient amount of glue to the joint, but not too much as to run 

Gonna have to ditto the Touch-N-Flow recommendation.

If you're having trouble with a paintbrush, try one of those microbrushes you can get at Hobby Lobby and the like. I use them with my Tenax on joins I can access from the inside (gun bay doors before wings get closed, armor builds before the hull gets joined up, etc) and they work great. For some reason much better than a typical paintbrush.

For years I've had great luck using an old-time drafting inking pen (see below) with ProWeld and Tenax type solvent cements. It's adjustable to allow the amount of solvent you need, and allows quite precise control.

Fairly inexpensive versions are available at drafting and most art supply stores, though I'm guessing not craft or hobby outlets.

Greg

Since I tried Tamiya Ultra Thin over a year ago, I never looked back to Tenax and Ambroid. I used the same T&F Doogs showed and works like magic on fuselages. A drop of Ultra Thin can run a good 4 to 6'' with no mess. It is so nice, I even use it for clear canopies. The only other glue I use is CA for landing gear and/or PE parts.

Definitely, Touch-N- Flow is a great tool.  I don't know how I ever got along without it.  My models are much cleaner looking since I learned about it.  You can usually find them in the model section at Hobby Lobby.

Touch N Flow ordered!

Thanks all!!!

In the mean time, I'll have to see Amy old drafting Set is Still around. -Thanks for all the responses!

Good Choice...you will love your touch n flow.

May I impose for one more question?

I'm working on Tamiya's V-1 Buzz Bomb (1:48) and when the glue ran it made a mess. I have sanded until I can just see a very faint shine where the glue was and sanded out my fingerprints - from the glue disaster.

The question is: Will the faint shine, or faint streaks still visible, affect paint adhesion? Do I have to Sand off all the detail on the model to fix this?

I think if you would spray a thin coat of primer, and then the final color coat, you will be ok.