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dot filters?

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  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: clinton twp,mi
dot filters?
Posted by humper491 on Tuesday, April 24, 2012 11:47 PM

 looking for help on how to aproach dot filters, want to make an attempt. gots a JAGDPANTHER primed in red-oxide with the tri-color 'tiger-striping"(not sure if that's the correct term), but  put my scratches in the camo, and like to learn how the dot filters work.

so far, all paints are model master enamel. i normally use acrylics for weathering past this point. another ? is, is it neccessary to use oil-based with the dot filtering? i have never used them...  thanks

Humper Beam

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 7:16 AM

I was going to post a link,but there are so many of them.

Use the Search Our Community,feature toward the bottom of the forum page.There are many,many posts on the subject.Enter Oil Dot Filters.

You will find some good tutorials

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by Gigatron on Tuesday, May 1, 2012 8:43 AM

Tojo72

I was going to post a link,but there are so many of them.

Use the Search Our Community,feature toward the bottom of the forum page.There are many,many posts on the subject.Enter Oil Dot Filters.

You will find some good tutorials

 

For all the typing, you could have just as easily told him how to do the weathering.

 

Oils are probably best because they give you the longest working time and blend the easiest.  The most important part of this, which I found out the hard way, is to have the correct thinning agent.  You need the turpenoid in the white bottle with the blue lettering.  The stuff in the white bottle with red lettering, just turns your stuff to mud.

Pick up a few colors of oils, staying away from dark colors (browns and blacks).  Blue, red, yellow, white and green give the best results.  Pre-wet the surface with clean turpenoid.  Add little dots (smaller than a pin head) at various places on the surface.  Dip the brush in clean turpenoid and pull down (or in the direction that gravity would pull water).  Repeat the pulling process until the individual colors are no longer visible.  Clean the brush every few wipes, to keep everything from becoming a uniform brown.

-Fred

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Tuesday, May 1, 2012 9:02 AM

Gigatron

 Tojo72:

I was going to post a link,but there are so many of them.

Use the Search Our Community,feature toward the bottom of the forum page.There are many,many posts on the subject.Enter Oil Dot Filters.

You will find some good tutorials

 

 

For all the typing, you could have just as easily told him how to do the weathering.

 

Oils are probably best because they give you the longest working time and blend the easiest.  The most important part of this, which I found out the hard way, is to have the correct thinning agent.  You need the turpenoid in the white bottle with the blue lettering.  The stuff in the white bottle with red lettering, just turns your stuff to mud.

Pick up a few colors of oils, staying away from dark colors (browns and blacks).  Blue, red, yellow, white and green give the best results.  Pre-wet the surface with clean turpenoid.  Add little dots (smaller than a pin head) at various places on the surface.  Dip the brush in clean turpenoid and pull down (or in the direction that gravity would pull water).  Repeat the pulling process until the individual colors are no longer visible.  Clean the brush every few wipes, to keep everything from becoming a uniform brown.

-Fred

 

Give me a break chief Huh? the guy was relatively new to the forums,I acquainted him with search feature so that he could find topics on his own.The articles on dot filtering by Bill Plunk and The Doog are far more expansive then anything I could have typed in there.So if you want to offer help,great,your short paragraph is good,but no need to comment on my advice.

Thank-you

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