SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

1st time weathering

5853 views
16 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    September 2012
  • From: Indianapolis
1st time weathering
Posted by Squatch88 on Saturday, September 8, 2012 10:12 PM

I built a B-17. Bomb bay open like its about to drop them. Going to hang it from somewhere, but I don't want it to look factory fresh like it is now. I've never weathered and was hoping for some easy tips to make it look good! I ruined a P-51 recently weathering and don't want to make the last few weeks pointless. thanks in advance!

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: NW Washington
Posted by dirkpitt77 on Sunday, September 9, 2012 12:48 AM

Hey Squatch,

   There are so many different weathing techniques everyone uses, it's really subjective. Also, since your build is complete your options may be a bit more limited. Maybe pick up a couple of the Tamiya weathering packs that include various smoke, soot, and oil stain colors. You can also gain a lot by a little drybrushing with the appropriate color in places where paint would be worn off (door edges or handles, step areas) or by using a silver pencil to simulate paint chipping near hinges or on the leading edge of propeller blades, etc.

   You seem newish on board here, so most of all I would advise you to study the threads on FSM here, as well as maybe to Google "how to weather models" or similar. Also try YouTube, where you can often find video tutorials on modeling subjects like this.

  I'm no pro, but that's my .02.

 P.S. hey, what does your name mean?

   Chris

    "Some say the alien didn't die in the crash.  It survived and drank whiskey and played poker with the locals 'til the Texas Rangers caught wind of it and shot it dead."

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, September 9, 2012 10:55 AM

I find washes about the easiest weathering technique.  Dry brushing, pastels, etc.  are a bit harder.

You didn't mention whether you have an airbrush.  There are some airbrush weathering techniques also (weathering your model with an airbrush- not weathering your airbrush).

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September 2012
  • From: Indianapolis
Posted by Squatch88 on Monday, September 10, 2012 9:57 PM

I have an airbrush but my skill is somewhat limited. I am new on here and I know there are probably threads on weathering but most seemed so specific to that particular model. The name is a nickname of a nickname ha. I'm the tallest in my family by about 5 inches, so my brother called me Patsquatch (first name Patrick) kinda like sasquatch, cut out the Pat and you've got Squatch!

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Monday, September 10, 2012 10:47 PM

There are probably hundreds of different ways to weather an aircraft. Some are best done during the painting process (pre-shading, color depth, blending filters), or after decals go on, or at the end of a build. A few I'm a fan of:

I'm not really using it any more as I've become a big fan of shading in multiple colors and building up the final coat in thin layers, but for several builds I used a three-layer blend technique that imparts a sense of wear and adds depth to the paint - you can find the technique here under Painting.

For the already painted and decaled model, you can use salt fading. Make sure you've got a good, water-proof clear coat in place, soak the thing with warm water from a spray bottle, then grind salt onto it:

Mix up a very thin (more or less transparent) mix of a light shade paint -  a light, slightly brownish gray works well - and spray it very lightly over the salt. Then rinse the salt off, reapply, and go with a darker "grime" mix. Rinse that off. Oh, and don't use Tamiya paints with the salt since they stain out for some reason. Final result is a nice, randomly worn paint finish:

You can also use washes, as suggested, HOWEVER if you're talking B-17 I'm going to assume it's a 1/48 Revellogram, which means raised panel lines, that in my experience don't play nice with washes. You can always do some post-shading work, but that's a scary thing if you're not confident with the airbrush.

You could do some post-filtering. Mix up (again, very) thin renditions of the main color, but with a drop of gray or dark green or what have you, and go back very gently over certain panels and areas with them. Make sure the control surfaces are lighter than the metal wings as the doped fabric tended to fade out faster. A very light mist of your base color over decals can reduce their contrast and make the entire thing seem more worn, as well.

There's also chipping along the wing leading edges, major panel lines that could catch in the slipstream or that saw a lot of maintenance work. As well as the prop blades. Lots of ways to do this, mainly drybrushing silver paint. But my preferred method is "dotting" with a prismacolor silver pencil. Just tap-tap-tap it against the surface to build up miniscule "chips" that can be built up and up to represent worn areas.

And exhaust stains of course...pastels or pigments work well here. You'll probably want more of a grimy gray/brown than straight up black, which is more common on Luftwaffe or Soviet VVS machines.

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Hatfield
Posted by Misty on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 1:16 PM

Excellent web site Doogs, now in my favourites list.

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 2:16 PM

Weathering is really an art, no right or wrong way.  My advice is to go slow and easy, a little at a time.  Keep it subtle.  I have used "Doc Evan's Weathering Powders" from Micro-Mark for years, and have had good results.  You can apply it just a little bit at a time with a small brush, and add more if necessary.

Good luck- and if you do not feel you have artistic talents, well, maybe leave it alone!  

 

Wink

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 2:35 PM

Cadet Chuck

Good luck- and if you do not feel you have artistic talents, well, maybe leave it alone!  

Where's the fun in that? Modeling has an extremely low failure cost compared to almost anything else. If you totally bungle a kit, at worst you're out the cost of the kit, and even then you can use it as an experimentation mule. And besides, if you never stretch, you never learn.

Whenever I get freaked out or nervous or "oh, I can't risk it", I pull up this picture...

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 2:58 PM

You have a good point there!  I retract my last line.....

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    September 2012
  • From: Indianapolis
Posted by Squatch88 on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 9:44 PM

Ya I totally have no problem ruining a kit, I've done it before and I'm sure I'll do it again. This is my first build after about 8 years out of it, so just want a good one, I'll upload what I have. I used some charcoal I found in my arsenal for the oil stains. I don't know if its historically accurate but I like the way it looks and look forward to doing more (on this model and future ones)

  • Member since
    September 2012
  • From: Indianapolis
Posted by Squatch88 on Wednesday, September 12, 2012 8:46 PM

  • Member since
    September 2012
  • From: Indianapolis
Posted by Squatch88 on Wednesday, September 12, 2012 8:48 PM

Realize its not the best model ever built, but it was fun to get back into the hobby. Hindsight is 20/20 and I can see a few mistakes now, but I think its looking good

  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by mitsdude on Thursday, September 13, 2012 1:55 AM

Just an FYI from my own bungled experiences.

Whichever technique you select I strongly suggest you first practice on something other than the bomber in question. Maybe the ruined Mustang you mentioned? Even a scrape piece of paper would be better than the bomber itself.

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Guam
Posted by sub revolution on Thursday, September 13, 2012 3:43 AM

Looks pretty good! As long as you are not looking for a really badly beaten bird, I would say add some silver chipping as Doog suggested, and call it good. The method I use for it, which he didn't mention, is take a fairly wide brush, and cut the bristles down really short. Then dip it in silver paint and dab it a few times on a paper towel to get excess off. Once you get it to where there is very little paint on it, gently stab it on the plane to get random patterns of small silver chips.

NEW SIG

  • Member since
    September 2012
  • From: Indianapolis
Posted by Squatch88 on Thursday, September 13, 2012 8:03 PM

Ya I am going to use the mustang in question to practice for sure. Looking back at the pictures I also realize I need to work on filling seems and masking. But hey each one is a learning experience and now that I have found this site there is a ton of info and techniques on it. Sure I'll get better. Thanks for the help and advice, I'll try and post pics once its all done

  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by mitsdude on Friday, September 14, 2012 1:49 AM

I feel your pain!

I don't know how many times I thought I had caught all the seams on a finished model only to have someone point out "hey, you missed a spot"!!!! Grrrrrrrrrr

  • Member since
    November 2012
  • From: Central Ohio
Posted by kenposan on Friday, November 30, 2012 10:49 PM

I know I'm coming way late to this thread but I'm new here and catching up.Big Smile

Anyway, I found this website a while back. I know it pertains specifically to armor but I think it could apply to anything. And it's a really simple technique. I tried it on my first build in 20 years and was pretty impressed with my results.

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/stuff_eng_tech_afv_weathering.htm

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.