SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

700 Scale Portholes

2342 views
3 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    August 2013
700 Scale Portholes
Posted by jsabrown on Monday, October 7, 2013 10:30 PM

There I was, merrily working on Hasegawa's 1:700 Three-Deck Akagi model and the kit's molded portholes were driving me batty.  Too much variance in size and depth.  I can't stand it.  

So I bought some Eduard IJN Ship Windows:

http://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/Photo-etched-parts/IJN-ship-windows-1-700-1-700.html?cur=2

They seem to fit the bill, but I'm having a devil of a time manipulating the little buggers.  My established PE trick of putting a tiny bit of tacky-tack on the end of a toothpick fails utterly.  The PE part is so small that the thin CA gets tangled up w/ the tacky-tack, no matter how small a piece of tacky-tack I use.  

I've seen some success in using the point of the toothpick by itself with a little spit, but the danged toothpick is still too big to readily orient the porthole! 

Suggestions?   

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, October 9, 2013 9:32 AM

For both 1:700 and 1:350 I use a cheap and easy method for portholes. I drill them out with a small drill and pinvise, then dip a toothpick into MicroGlaze or some similar transparent glue, and daub it into the resulting hole.  However, I drill the holes before any painting, and do the glazing after all painting is finished. I do the portholes on the deckhouses the same way.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Thursday, November 7, 2013 12:51 PM

Since you state that you intend to use PE porthole rims and brows ...

Instead of using CA to cement the PE in place, use something like Future floor polish (Plege with Future Shine or other trade names) or Gator Glue.    Future is good for holding small flat PE which doesn't have structural attachment needs.   Gator Glue is a PVA/white glue with quick grab, yet allows time to reposiiton the part.    Another PVA option may be Aleenes Tacky Glue (a craft store item).    

Future/Gator/Aleene's  all harden slower than CA (even slow gel CA) and allow time to work

Lay a small puddle of Future where the part goes using a toothpick or fine point brush.   Place the part using your toothpick & tack material into the puddle.  Position and allow to dry -- you may need two toothpicks or needles to manipulate the PE.   You can wick away excess Future with a corner of paper towel.   Another small touch of future when dry will seal the part in.  .  

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, November 8, 2013 8:57 AM

I have used homemade decals for portholes on a 1:500 ship. I laid out a series of black dots in the proper pattern for each area of the deckhouses and hull.  Only problem is that if you use a flat overcoat to coat the decals the portholes are not glossy, but it still did not work half bad.  Should work even better for 1:700.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.