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New to Resin

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  • Member since
    January 2010
Posted by CrashTestDummy on Tuesday, November 19, 2013 1:50 PM

And don't forget about a dust mask when your sawing/dremeling/filing!!  The dust from that stuff is hazardous.  

Gene Beaird,

Pearland, Texas

G. Beaird,

Pearland, Texas

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, October 30, 2013 9:27 AM

I would think the kit designers should be aware that if the skin is thicker than scale, they would have to narrow the cockpit width by a like amount.  Also, the kits never actually mount the pieces of the cockpit in a scale manner anyways.  The bosses that are in some kits are not in the prototypes, and cockpit parts were virtually never glued to fuselage skins.  There is, of course, a tolerance issue, but I believe the kit mfgs should tolerance on the loose side. It is easier to use a gap filling glue than to shave off just the right amount of plastic in just the right places.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, October 29, 2013 10:19 AM

I am not so sure they are actually to wide. The metal skin of an aircraft is not really that thick and I think most plastic models are out of scale in that department, at least I would say that's the case for 72nd kits. Add to this the restrictions on how thin they can get the side walls of a resin pit, if the inside dimensions of the pit are correct then I think its a given that we have to thin both plastic and resin.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, October 29, 2013 9:13 AM

It is not just resin cockpits that are too wide!  I have had about half the cockpits of styrene kits be too wide too, so I have to shave them a bit to get a good fitting fuselage seam.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, October 29, 2013 2:57 AM

Once you start adding any AM, things do take a bit longer. I have spent whole evening just making up and attaching a few PE parts. Buts it can be really worth it in the end.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    September 2013
Posted by Vince on Monday, October 28, 2013 7:48 PM

Thanks everyone for your feedback. I had not expected the extra amount of time I have to commit to the model but I'm sure it will be worth the effort.

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by Bick on Monday, October 28, 2013 5:18 PM

Yes, as others said, there are large  molding attachments to the part you want. To remove them, definitely use a razor saw - I use one of THESE JLC saws. CMK also make one, A rotary tool to finish to size is great.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, October 28, 2013 9:49 AM

The larger part of excess resin, I use a saw to get as close as I can then remove the rest either with my mini drill with sander bit or a needle file, depending on the size of the part.

Plastic cement won't work but CA will.

One other thing, make sure you test fit. Its my experience with Aires resin cockpit that you need to thin both the outside of the resin pit and the inside of the fuselage for it to fit. Otherwise you won't be able to close the fuselage. So make sure you do plenty of test fits.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, October 28, 2013 8:40 AM

Yes, I find the majority of resin parts come with a large attachment hunk.  I also use a razor saw to cut it away, and then either the dremel or a needle file to clean up the cut area.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Monday, October 28, 2013 8:34 AM

Don't use a clippers! Get a razor saw or dremel. At the least, take a new exacto blade and score along the separation line multiple times til the part comes off the stub, then wet sand the rest.

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Monday, October 28, 2013 8:06 AM

I bought a small Dremel Tool to clean off resin parts.You can also use a small saw and file,but the Dremel was an answer to my prayers for bigger parts.I use super glus to attach resin parts

  • Member since
    September 2013
New to Resin
Posted by Vince on Monday, October 28, 2013 7:37 AM

I decided to expand my skills and finally spend the money on a aftermarket cockpit for the A-4M I'm building. I went with Aires for the RES and PE. Considering this was my first time in dealing with resin I was surprised to see that the resin parts especially the cockpit and ejection seat has a lot of material left on it. I attempted to remove it and found it was very brittle. These aftermarket parts cost has much as the kit so I want to proceed cautiously.

Is it normal for the resin parts to have so much material still left on it?

What methods are used to remove the extra material. I was afraid of damaging the part when I used the clippers.

What type of glue was used to mount the parts, CA, Epoxy, plastic cement?

Thanks,

 

Vince

 

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