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Proper glue technique

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  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Monday, December 30, 2013 7:24 AM

Everyone has their own way of doing things. In regards to cockpits, I glue everything I can and paint later, with pe belts added last. Since discovering Plast I Weld and the Touch n Flow applicator, it has become my go to gluing arsenal. For pe I use thick ca or Aleen's fast grab tacky glue and for clear parts clear parts cement. Any residue that manages to show up will be dulled over with a light dusting of clear flat from my AB or small brush.

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Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: Phoenix, AZ
Posted by Fly-n-hi on Thursday, December 26, 2013 2:54 PM

I use Micro Krystal clear to glue painted parts on.  It has very good adhesion although not as good as CA or styrene cement.  Its good for clear parts, too!  I glued a canopy on with Krystal clear that I later had to remove.  I was very surprised at the amount of effort it took to pull it off.

I've also used Abtielung liquid mask to attach parts.  Its just like rubber cement but a little thinner.  And whats great about it is that if you mess it up you just pull the part off and peel off the mask.  Easy as pie.

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Thursday, December 26, 2013 11:44 AM

For me, it depends.  If possible, I'll attach things before painting, but that typically is what I do for larger assemblies.  For a cockpit, I'll reverse that and paint pieces, then assemble.  I use a Nr 11 X-Acto, a straight pin or sewing needle, to remove paint as necessary.  As Don noted, CA glue is plenty strong.  After either method, I touch up as necessary.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, December 22, 2013 12:41 PM

For small parts with paint on a gluing area, I either scrape the gluing surface with a #11 Xacto blade, or use a small drill and pinvise to drill a couple of holes through the paint.  For small parts CA is  strong enough that even the dimples from a couple of small drill holes will hold well enough.

I find it a lot harder to mask and paint areas after the parts are glued together, so I am with the OP in painting cockpit areas and then gluing assembly together, but you do need to remove glue.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Saturday, December 21, 2013 11:21 PM

The only thing I glue on a cockpit after painting is color PE seat belts if I'm using them. Just have to be real careful not to leave a super glue smudge mark. Some parts such as gear doors and actuators need to be attached after painting. Again, just be careful. As Bronto said, glue all that you can together fist, then paint.

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2004
  • From: Cat Central, NC
Posted by Bronto on Saturday, December 21, 2013 11:13 PM

It's simple.  Glue the parts together BEFORE they are painted.  No touch up needed.

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Mobile, AL
Proper glue technique
Posted by RotorHead10 on Saturday, December 21, 2013 7:43 PM
I see all these great cockpits and flight decks on this site. However with all the intricacies that I see, I see no glue residue. Obviously you clean the paint feom the surface to be glued, however, your touch up is pheonominal. So...whats your technique? I recently started taking a blunt or sharp toothpick dipped in thinner and scrub/scrape the paint off of the surface area. Glue my parts, touch up as required. Anyone have better suggestions?

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