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CA as a seam filler - preferred applicators

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  • Member since
    February 2013
CA as a seam filler - preferred applicators
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Monday, January 27, 2014 10:04 AM

I'm fixing to try this method again. My first attempt was years ago, with not good results. I waited too long to sand and used too much with predicable results. This time I'm going to use accelerator and start sanding quickly. I'm curious about the best or preferred applicator for the CA itself. What works well for you? Toothpick, superfine micro-brush, or something else entirely?

Thanks

  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by JimNTENN on Monday, January 27, 2014 10:13 AM

Tom, I've been using a toothpick here lately to put just a small amount where I need it. Of course the areas I've been applying it to have been pretty small as well. I have actually applied it straight from the nozzle on the bottle in some cases but that is usually when I'm trying to fill a long seam.

Using CA as a gap filler takes some practice. It's the only thing I use now for filling seams and gaps...I haven't used putty in years...and I wouldn't say I've mastered it yet. Hopefully you'll begin to see satisfactory results.

Current project(s): Hobby Boss: 1/72 F9F-2 Panther

                                  Midwest Products: Skiff(wood model)

                                  

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Monday, January 27, 2014 10:35 AM

Something else to consider is Wite-Out and Mr. Surfacer 500. If you are really feeling different, there is a hot wax device available. I can hook you up to the info and one who has used that!

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Monday, January 27, 2014 10:59 AM

Thanks, I'd planned on staring out with a toothpick, and on the underside (Hobby Boss A-6A), and going slow. Should be interesting.

Thanks again,

Tom

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Monday, January 27, 2014 11:01 AM

The Wite Out sounds interesting. Do you apply it and then wipe it down with alcohol like with Mr. Surfacer?

Thanks,

Tom

  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by JimNTENN on Monday, January 27, 2014 11:08 AM

That's funny. I'm working on a Hobby Boss F9F-2 Panther and I was in the process of applying some CA to some seams when this thread popped up. How's that for coincidence.

Tom, going slow is the key. I've even found that when filling a long seam I prefer to go in baby steps and  fill a small section and sand or file it down before proceeding on to the rest of the seam. I just feel like I have more control over it and I'm less likely to be overwhelmed. It's really more of a comfort issue for me.

Current project(s): Hobby Boss: 1/72 F9F-2 Panther

                                  Midwest Products: Skiff(wood model)

                                  

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Monday, January 27, 2014 11:11 AM
Duh....I hadn't thought of that. I've usually let it dry and then sanded. It can take a while, though.

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Cameron, Texas
Posted by Texgunner on Monday, January 27, 2014 11:30 AM

tomwatkins45

The Wite Out sounds interesting. Do you apply it and then wipe it down with alcohol like with Mr. Surfacer?

Thanks,

Tom

Tom, let it dry and then sand it.  It usually sands really well, feathering just fine.   Good luck with it!

Gary


"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Rockford, IL
Posted by AlanF on Monday, January 27, 2014 11:53 AM

Mix it with talc powder. It makes it much easier to sand and see where the glue is going.

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Monday, January 27, 2014 11:58 AM

Cool! Thanks everybody for the info. I'd planned on going slow and doing a little at a time ( I'm definitely into being comfortable) and learning as I go. I will give the Wite-Out a try also. Sounds very useful.

Thanks again,

Tom

  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by JimNTENN on Monday, January 27, 2014 12:01 PM

I think I'll try the Wite-Out as well. That's a new one for me.

Current project(s): Hobby Boss: 1/72 F9F-2 Panther

                                  Midwest Products: Skiff(wood model)

                                  

  • Member since
    November 2006
Posted by Bearcat57 on Monday, January 27, 2014 4:08 PM
I've read that only the old formula White-Out works (as in the black and white bottle), and if you don't have any of that still lying around then you're pretty much SOL as far as using White-Out as a filler. Can anyone confirm or debunk?
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Cameron, Texas
Posted by Texgunner on Monday, January 27, 2014 4:18 PM

Bearcat57
I've read that only the old formula White-Out works (as in the black and white bottle), and if you don't have any of that still lying around then you're pretty much SOL as far as using White-Out as a filler. Can anyone confirm or debunk?

I haven't seen any difference.  It still works the same for me.  ymmv...Smile

Gary


"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by hypertex on Tuesday, January 28, 2014 7:28 AM

My preferred CA applicator is a modified sewing needle. I cut off part of the eye of the needle leaving two small prongs in a 'Y' shape. The capillary action will hold a small amount of glue; the smaller the "Y" the smaller the amount of glue it will hold. Also works for applying small amounts of Future or accelerator (or decal solvent, etc).

By the way, I use thin CA glue, even to fill gaps. I fill most of the gap with putty or styrene, then top it off with the thin CA. The thin stuff flows into small gaps and levels itself better than thicker glues. Medium, thick, and gap-filling CA glues contain fillers,  such as PMMA (the same polymer that makes plexiglass). I often wonder if these fillers account for CA's tendency to become harder than plastic. I don't experience that with the thin CA glue.

Chris

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Tuesday, January 28, 2014 7:32 AM

Bearcat,

The Wite-Out brand of product seems to be okay, as Gary has said.

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Tuesday, January 28, 2014 11:06 AM

I've heard of the modified sewing needle before, but haven't tried it. I'll have to give it a whirl. Thanks to everyone for the good ideas.

Tom

  • Member since
    November 2006
Posted by Bearcat57 on Tuesday, January 28, 2014 11:33 AM
Thanks for the replies concerning the Wite-Out, Gary and Geezer....I shall give the stuff a try!
  • Member since
    February 2013
Posted by tomwatkins45 on Wednesday, February 26, 2014 12:56 PM

I thought I would provide a progress update. I'm very pleased with how well the CA works as a seam filler when used properly. I'm using small runs, applied with a toothpick. I hit it with liquid accelerator and sand immediately. It really works great! The thing that truly amazes me though is Wite Out. I had no idea it could be used to fill seams, or anything besides correcting typing errors! I'm applying it with a micro-brush, letting it dry and sanding it down. It really works well! Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

Tom

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