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Stripping paint

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  • Member since
    October 2020
  • From: Detroit, Michigan
Stripping paint
Posted by Bronco Billy on Wednesday, December 30, 2020 10:13 AM

I have a car body with extensive customizing that I got with a box of parts. I would like to use the body with the modifications,but I don't know what the body filler is. Does anyone know of a way to strip the paint and not destroy all the custom body work?

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Wednesday, December 30, 2020 10:32 AM

Isopropyl alcohol at 91% or better is what I use for stripping paint.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Wednesday, December 30, 2020 10:44 AM

Eaglecash867

Isopropyl alcohol at 91% or better is what I use for stripping paint.

 

Will that strip enamel or Lacquer also

  • Member since
    October 2020
  • From: Detroit, Michigan
Posted by Bronco Billy on Wednesday, December 30, 2020 10:47 AM

[quote user="Tojo72

Eaglecash867

Isopropyl alcohol at 91% or better is what I use for stripping paint.

 

 

 

Will that strip enamel or Lacquer also

 

[/quote]Will that not loosen or destroy the unknown body filler material under the paint?

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, December 30, 2020 10:55 AM

I use a product called "Chameleon" that I bought from Squadron back in the ice ages. For some reason it just keeps on working.

Bill

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Wednesday, December 30, 2020 1:19 PM

Tojo72

 

Will that strip enamel or Lacquer also

 

It will completely remove enamels.  It also removes lacquers, but some of the darker lacquers will leave a stain on the plastic...that's easily covered up by a new coat of primer and paint though.  Model Master flat black lacquer left a stain on the light grey plastic of my F-16CJ engine interior, but that's the only lacquer I've tried that wasn't completely removed.  Everything else has come off completely with soaking and a little scrubbing help from a cheap electric toothbrush.  Even removes my favorite primer, the Tamiya grey primer.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Wednesday, December 30, 2020 1:23 PM

Bronco Billy

Will that not loosen or destroy the unknown body filler material under the paint?

 

Can't really predict if it will or not.  It depends on how well the filler is bonded with the plastic.  If its a polyester resin type of filler like Bondo, I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be able to hurt it.  Epoxy fillers like Milliput should also be OK.  But, no guarantees since the material is unknown.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Wednesday, December 30, 2020 2:19 PM

Bronco Billy

I have a car body with extensive customizing that I got with a box of parts. I would like to use the body with the modifications,but I don't know what the body filler is. Does anyone know of a way to strip the paint and not destroy all the custom body work? 

I use the automotive de-greaser SuperClean (formerly a Castrol product, now its own brand).  I get a gallon jug at Walmart for eight bucks and change.

It strips paint and doesn't harm styrene, resin (that I've seen so far), nor metal.  It will soften adhesives like 2-part epoxies, so that a piece can be pulled apart.

Without knowing the material the bodywork is made of, I can't say whether SuperClean will attack it.  But you can always use it in stages and see.

I use glass jars of various sizes to soak pieces I want to strip.  The paint softens and starts to dissolve into solution in about 2 minutes.  The longer you let the piece soak, the more paint comes off.

I also use it to spot-strip areas on a model when I can't or don't want to soak the piece.  I use an old paintbrush to apply SuperClean to the area to be cleaned.

What's great about SuperClean is that you can use a batch over and over, so it goes a long way.

Hope that helps!

Best regards,

Brad

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Wednesday, December 30, 2020 6:50 PM

Bronco Billy: 

 You've gotten some good advice. If it was done with the old formula Testors Body putty it may hold.I f you can test a non critical area and see. If the filler gets sticky STOP!

  • Member since
    December 2020
Posted by TheDemiGod on Thursday, December 31, 2020 12:15 AM

Easy Off Oven cleaner in yellow can

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, December 31, 2020 9:03 AM

I use Purple Power cleanser in spray bottle.  Takes off both acrylic and enamel.  Never tried it on lacquer.  I also use it for cleaning my AB jars.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Thursday, December 31, 2020 11:45 AM

TheDemiGod

Easy Off Oven cleaner in yellow can 

I used to use oven cleaner, before I heard of SuperClean.  The biggest drawback to oven cleaner is that it is a once-and-done product, you really can't use a batch of it more than once, once you've sprayed it.  That, and it's a lot more caustic than SuperClean; you really need to use it in a well-ventilated space and wear gloves (though many probably do not).  It's odd, because an active ingredient in both products is lye.  But SC isn't nearly as caustic as oven cleaners.

It's still a good idea to have ventilation when using it, too, though I don't always do that.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Thursday, December 31, 2020 12:34 PM

the Baron

 I used to use oven cleaner, before I heard of SuperClean.  The biggest drawback to oven cleaner is that it is a once-and-done product, you really can't use a batch of it more than once, once you've sprayed it.  That, and it's a lot more caustic than SuperClean; you really need to use it in a well-ventilated space and wear gloves (though many probably do not).  It's odd, because an active ingredient in both products is lye.  But SC isn't nearly as caustic as oven cleaners.

It's still a good idea to have ventilation when using it, too, though I don't always do that.

 

 
Oven cleaner also chemically modifies the plastic and makes it brittle.  Its the ammonia in it that has that effect.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    December 2020
Posted by TheDemiGod on Thursday, December 31, 2020 1:38 PM

True on the smell. That's why I let it sit in a covered container overnight to do its work. Then I rinse and rinse again. Let dry and clean again with alcohol.

  • Member since
    October 2020
  • From: Detroit, Michigan
Posted by Bronco Billy on Friday, January 8, 2021 7:49 PM

Thank you for all the suggestions. I have used all of them,brake fluid and pine-sol included to strip paint. I'm going to try super clean first in a clear container so I can watch it. Again thank you all for your suggestions.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, January 14, 2021 6:10 AM

I forgot where I read about the use of Simple Green  for this very same application. As I recall the model was soaked overnight and safely stripped the paint.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

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