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Do Not USE or Re-Use Clear parts from your models.

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  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Do Not USE or Re-Use Clear parts from your models.
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Tuesday, May 25, 2021 1:49 PM

 Okay; 

       This applies to Glue Bombs, Maybe as well as New, Pristine models. Why? Well in cars and planes the thickness are your enemy. Many of you have printed remarks here in the forums concerning that very thing. Now, on Armor this may be harder, but if you can don't use the clear parts in the kit. Except the glass units in the Turret Cupolas and Periscope fittings . Those are to hard. I know it can be done. But I recommend against this step. Unless you are super good handling thicker that normal pieces of clear!  

      Now here's the reason for the post. How many times, Those of you who have tried it can attest to. You Freeze your model( Much against the Wifey's wishes) and then when you go to see if it will do it, Your B-26 canopy  snaps apart at a diagonal and the pieces go flying. Okay, you find them. Now what? Well here's what I do. On a new model I use my trusty Mattel Vac-U-Form and using the NEW part as a master, I mold a nice thin new one.

    You maybe don't have access to that. So here's what you do. Take the Canopy parts and glue them together and then Make sure the bottom and back edges, are just a little undersize. Now, make sure the crack cannot be felt. Install a plate at the back and on the bottom, Sealing the clear part. Take Model RailRoad scenery Plaster and a small bit of " T " shirt. Blend it thick and shred the "T" shirt parts very small in the plaster. You'll see why in a minute.

     Take W.D. 40 and rub it gently in a extremely fine film on the canopy and dip it in the thick Plaster"T" shirt mix. Let it start to set up. Remove from the  mixing container soft and work it thin, but not to thin, around the facing of the canopy. Set aside and let dry.

 A day later sit down and pick up that piece. Now, carefully spread the mold and the canopy will fall out! OR SHOULD ! DO NOT USE Regular Mold making material! Now, Mix up a proper amount say, a Testors small bottle cap, full of clear resin and hardener.

    Gently let it seep from the Cap into the mold rotating the mold to get full coverage and NO Bubbles. Set aside upside down, and let the resin set up, Turning the mold every so often so it doesn't all settle in the bottom of the mold. Wait till the next day! You now flex that mold and pop out the part. Oh, mold release? Nah, The mold has a coating of W.D.40 remember! This has always worked for me. 

    Windshields and back windows for Cars and trucks .010 sheet.What's so hard about that?

 

   

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, May 27, 2021 12:53 PM

Usually I keep the clear and replace all the crappy opaque stuff.

But I'm not sure why one is better than the other?

See my point?

 

Bill

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Friday, May 28, 2021 8:12 AM

Yeah, Bill;

 I learned this early on with Airliners with impossibly cruddy windows in the passenger areas. Many Bombers suffer from the same malady. And, Don't get me started on waterborne craft in large enough scale to even worry about it.

 The REVELL Tug Boat Long Beach is a great little boat.The windows look like they started to melt when they were installed. Ad Infinitum. Model On!

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, May 28, 2021 8:58 AM

I have that Hasegawa Japanese ice breaker kit in my stash.

 

The entire front of the deck house is a clear piece, has a lot of little windows to mask off. 

Kind of clever.

 

Bill

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

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