SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

How to use Mr. Surfacer 500, 1000 and 1200 - a tutorial.

26930 views
19 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    February, 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
How to use Mr. Surfacer 500, 1000 and 1200 - a tutorial.
Posted by Swanny on Saturday, April 09, 2005 9:24 AM
Have you heard of this wonder filler yet? Here is a link to a feature on the uses of Mr. Surfacer from Gunze-Sangyo, hope you find it useful.
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Surfacer.html

Feel free to forward comments to me at webmaster@SwannysModels.com

  • Member since
    November, 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, April 09, 2005 10:06 AM
Thanks for the link most useful
  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
Posted by maddafinga on Saturday, April 09, 2005 3:03 PM
They carry the spray bottle of the 1200 at my lhs, but I haven't picked it up as I'm not too big on spraycans. I might have to look again to see if they also carry the 500 and the 1k in a different area. Looks like this stuff might be pretty useful. I'm especially glad to see that you can airbrush the 1200. Thanks for the work there Swanny!
Madda Trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Tact is for those who lack the wit for sarcasm.--maddafinga
  • Member since
    November, 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, April 09, 2005 3:11 PM
Another great article Swanny. Thumbs Up [tup] Actually though it turns out that all of us are not using Mr. Surfacer the way it is intended. It's actually meant as a sunblock. Yes you know when you see people with that white sfuff on thier nose and thier sunglasses. Just kidding LOL!!! Please don't anyone go out now and do that!!!! Clown [:o)]Sad [:(]Big Smile [:D]

The reason is the 2nd most elusive mystery: Nobody seems to know what the bottles actually say

I've had good luck with 1000 and Laq thinner as a primer. It sure does soak up the paint though.
  • Member since
    February, 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Saturday, April 09, 2005 5:04 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by I-beam

Another great article Swanny. Thumbs Up [tup] Actually though it turns out that all of us are not using Mr. Surfacer the way it is intended. It's actually meant as a sunblock. Yes you know when you see people with that white sfuff on thier nose and thier sunglasses. Just kidding LOL!!! Please don't anyone go out now and do that!!!! Clown [:o)]Sad [:(]Big Smile [:D]


1001 uses
ROFLBCUTS
  • Member since
    November, 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 14, 2005 8:00 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by I-beam

The reason is the 2nd most elusive mystery: Nobody seems to know what the bottles actually say

I've had good luck with 1000 and Laq thinner as a primer. It sure does soak up the paint though.

On the bottle of Mr Surfacer 500, it actually saids liquid putty
and for 1000 and 1200 it said primer for paint.

All 3 actually also come in spray can form. Finding them in the US is a little more difficault and very expensive but this is a VERY commonly use in Asia as primer.
  • Member since
    August, 2003
  • From: Alice Springs Australia
Posted by tweety1 on Saturday, June 11, 2005 7:25 AM
I've had the 1000 on my bench for a year now, and it really is fantastic stuffBig Smile [:D]

The 500 is on it's way from the lhs.

The best part is the rapid drying time, none of this wait for an hour or two, just wack it on and get on with it.

To be honest, I'm a large fan of all of Gunzes gear, and use almost exclusively their acrylics.
Great product IMHO
--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???
  • Member since
    December, 2002
Posted by SNOOPY on Friday, July 22, 2005 11:41 AM
How hot is this stuff? Is it like the floquil paint where you have to or should use a barrier because of the hot solvent base? I just curious on if it is a hot solvent then when you use it as a filler, how does the plastic hold up if you brush on to much or spray for to long. I have used only enamel and acrylic but have heard that when using the laqcuer based paints you need to spray at a distance so that when it hits the plastic it is almost dry when it hits so that there is no attacking the plastic. Forgive my cluelessness about this. I thought Mr. Surfacer was a primer for their acrylic paints.
  • Member since
    February, 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Friday, July 22, 2005 2:39 PM
It is relatively hot but I have not had a single issue with plastic melting when spraying or brushing the stuff. I have gone through a couple bottles now with 100% perfect results. Air pressure at about 18psi, range at 4 to 6 inches.
  • Member since
    June, 2004
  • From: Malaysia
Posted by abuyia on Saturday, October 08, 2005 2:34 AM
hi,
can i use nitrocellulose thinner or acetone to thin Mr surfacer to be airbrushed? another question... is lacquer thiner similar to nitrocellulose thinner? i seem to be able to thin Mr Surfacer with first aid alcohol. anybody out there airbrushed thinned with alcohol ? my airbrush seems to be always clogged after 10 min of use with mr surfacer cut with alcohol (1:1)...
  • Member since
    February, 2006
Posted by Neptune48 on Saturday, February 25, 2006 12:59 AM

 abuyia wrote:
hi,
can i use nitrocellulose thinner or acetone to thin Mr surfacer to be airbrushed? another question... is lacquer thiner similar to nitrocellulose thinner? i seem to be able to thin Mr Surfacer with first aid alcohol. anybody out there airbrushed thinned with alcohol ? my airbrush seems to be always clogged after 10 min of use with mr surfacer cut with alcohol (1:1)...

I can't answer about nitrocellulose thinner, but I can report that the recommended thinner is Gunze's Mr. Color Thinner.  It's readily available online if not at your local hobby shop, though Mr. Color paints probably are not.  I have never had a problem in three years' usage with both  500 and 1000.

The paint is a little hot, but I've brushed 500 and sanded to a smooth finish.  Airbrushing has never caused problems.  Once cured, neither lacquers, enamels or acrylics have reacted with the primer.

"You can't have everything--where would you put it?"
  • Member since
    December, 2004
  • From: Staten Island, New York
Posted by Vartan041 on Monday, March 20, 2006 10:29 AM
Great "how to" article Señor Swanny, but I've got a question for you. Does Mr. Surfacer have to be sanded within a certain amount of time like gap filling glues that can dry harder than the plastic?
I don't suffer from insanity...I enjoy every minute of it!
  • Member since
    June, 2005
  • From: NJ 07073
Posted by archangel571 on Monday, March 27, 2006 8:49 PM
hey swanny, I recently got myself a bottle of gunze liquid (it says "dissolved") putty along with some re-supplies for base white 1000 (mr surfacer in white =P) have you ever tried those or know any comparison between that and the mr surfacer 500?  having not used 500 yet i can only assume the surfacer 500 is probably finer or thinner.
-=Ryan=- Too many kits... so little free time. MadDocWorks
  • Member since
    August, 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Tuesday, March 28, 2006 12:05 AM

 archangel571 wrote:
hey swanny, I recently got myself a bottle of gunze liquid (it says "dissolved") putty along with some re-supplies for base white 1000 (mr surfacer in white =P) have you ever tried those or know any comparison between that and the mr surfacer 500?  having not used 500 yet i can only assume the surfacer 500 is probably finer or thinner.

It's the other way around actually. I haven't used 500 either, but I believe it goes, in order of coarsest to finest, 500 - 1000 - 1200.  Can't help with the Mr "dissolved" putty I'm afraid.

  • Member since
    June, 2005
  • From: NJ 07073
Posted by archangel571 on Wednesday, April 05, 2006 8:51 PM

Oh no, I was saying that I assumed 500 is finer than the dissolved putty.

Well, the dissolved putty is pretty much really putty with liquid cement like how people usually do it home-made (that's how it smelled like).  It dries pretty fast but requires a really good shaking then stiring prior to use to get it mixed up evenly, otherwise it'd look just fine like white glue when I apply it but will dry to look like a clear thick layer of cement with little minute chunks of broken down white putty in there.  I think my regular squadron white putty was doing a better job filling up the seams.  Worked out pretty well for some 1/35 figures though.

-=Ryan=- Too many kits... so little free time. MadDocWorks
  • Member since
    February, 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Monday, April 17, 2006 6:54 PM
Sorry that I have not been keeping up with this post recently. I have not played with the dissolved putty yet. There is no time limit that you have to observe when sanding Mr. Surfacer other than to let it dry first.
  • Member since
    November, 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 14, 2006 8:22 PM

I recommend  to dissolve :

 

 Putty tamiya + banana Oil = Ok

used oil of banana to remove enamel of nails

 

http://www.modelsforsale.com/listphotos/TM87053.jpg

http://www.alergoshop.com.br/img/pro/130/óleo%20de%20banana.jpg

  • Member since
    April, 2004
  • From: The cornfields of Ohio
Posted by crockett on Monday, August 14, 2006 11:07 PM
 bernardes wrote:

I recommend  to dissolve :

 

 Putty tamiya + banana Oil = Ok

used oil of banana to remove enamel of nails

 

http://www.modelsforsale.com/listphotos/TM87053.jpg

http://www.alergoshop.com.br/img/pro/130/óleo%20de%20banana.jpg

 

 

i think we're a little short on the bananna oil here in the states......

"In the end, it all goes to the landfill".......
  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: A secret workshop somewhere in England
Posted by TANGO 1 on Wednesday, August 16, 2006 5:26 AM
A very useful article, many thanks.

Darren.
Regards, Darren. C.A.G. FAA/USNFAW GB
  • Member since
    March, 2008
  • From: Germantown, TN & San Peire, FR
Posted by Nacht on Saturday, September 27, 2008 11:02 AM

500 coarser in grit than is 1000 or than is 1200... smaller the number the coarser the finish as in sandpaper nomenclature.

Mr. Surfacer can be thinned with Floquil Diosol also or Liquid cement but why?

 Overall these three products are more for final finish paint surface preparation, small surface mars or minor seam filling.

The best thing for filling seams or flaws can be accomplished by me possibly sharing an article and discussion that I gave at an IPMS Convention in Atlanta some twenty five years ago now...

The answer is simply Testors Liquid Cement mixed with Squadron Green Putty in a mix of some one part liquid cement to five parts Green Stuff... this is a thick coarse mixture that can be applied and then pulled, scratched, stamped or tacked to give various looks or cast surface features and thess varied mixtures readily adhere or bind to the plastic's surface. It also lasts for months or years in the bottle without going bad or hardening up... simply shake and use. Simply put a couple of BB's if you wish into the jar and shake... I have some different consistancy mixtures laying on the workbench that have been used and added to or remixed for years now. I really prefer the old Testors low form square liquid cement bottles (that have the brush in the jar as they do not tip over like the new tall cylindrical ones now do) and I have saved my old jars for just this purpose built mixture.

 The 'Green stuff' mixture can be made more thin with the addition of more liquid cement. The mix can also be made with Squadron White Putty (which is finer in texture) but the consistancy is a bit different and gives a less coarse texture finish than does the green putty version. You can color it with paint as well to derive different undercoat or primer colors to chip through the overlying paint to achieve great weathering looks for your paint.

Here is what can be achieved with this mixture for surface texture... and is simple to use and inexpensive...

Here are three forms (colors) of this mixture used in white, red and green to fix a flaw in the conversion and addition of a three piece transmission cover to backdate an Italeri 1/35 Priest... I actually primed nearly the entire surface of the rolled armor segments to add texture and pitting and then went back and fixed the minor flaws or problems found after 'priming'...

If you look closely you will see that I have an extra-fine version in pale blue and used it to correct a problem on the PE siren... using it just like Mr. Surfacer 1200 to fill minor imperfections.

The surface now has great 'bite' for paint application and shows any errors that can be addressed before final paint application layers...

Look to the surface texture that is also applied to the "Priest's front face" near the lights... as an example of what can be achieved...

 

Mr. Surfacer 500 is much thinner than this mixture I am proposing for readers to try but can be used directly on top of this ad hoc "green stuff" slurry.

Need more help contact me through... http://www.afrikakorps.org/ and then click link to Nacht... hope this adds to readers work benches for another method or tool to use when needed...

http://www.AFRIKAKORPS.Org ALWAYS...Working on website!!!

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SUBSCRIBER-ONLY CONTENT
FREE NEWSLETTER

Loading...