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Techniques FAQ: Check here before asking

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 19, 2003 8:02 PM
FOR mrozik::: try an auto paint supplier like NAPA or AUTOZONE. any place that supplies automotive finishes will carry sanding grits up to 2500 . Acouple of sheets will last quite awhile.hope this helps
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 19, 2003 6:37 PM
I have been looking all over the place for sand paper of high grit. Does anybody know where I can get this online. My local hobby shops that are open don't have it the rest are never open.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 19, 2003 11:04 AM
Yikes!Big Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Upstate NY
Posted by Build22 on Thursday, June 19, 2003 8:24 AM
You guys are right. I've haven't been around this forum too long but I have allready noticed a repeat of alot of questions. Not only that, there is a resource of magzine articles right next to this column!
Jim [IMG]
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by RonUSMC on Tuesday, June 17, 2003 4:03 AM
You should edit the subject of your post if you want it to be a sticky. To something descriptive for searching and a better chance of being clicked on.

As an example... your subject is "once and for all"... which means nothing and no one will click it, when it should be..

"Techniques FAQ: Check here before asking"

I have been a moderator of some sort on and off for ten years, so that is where my silly ideas come from, ;)

[EDIT]
In fact, instead of asking you to do it... I just did it instead.
http://finescalegallery.com Active Kits: 1/48 AM Avenger 1/35 Sd.Kfz 251 Ausf C
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 16, 2003 5:10 PM
to get scratches out of clear plastic: you use finer and finer grits of sandpaper till about 2000 or more, then you use either tamiya compound, plastic polish, or car wax/polish. then future.

seatbelts: you use masking tape to make the fabric stuff, then you use aluminum foil for the buckles. or you can use resin ones

streching spruce: you light a candle or zippo, then hold a piece of spruce over. when it starts to pull apart, you lift it from the flame and pull. slow pull= 1/16 rod. quick pull = almost hair width.

washes: you thin paint in water and use a small brush to get it into the lines.

future floor wax: see the faq above

tamiya clear flat: you mix it with gloss paints to make them flat. do not use like a clearcoat.

bare metal finish: you sand the model untill about 2000 grit. then you apply alclad/snj /metalizer to the model. use gloss primer or future floor wax

masking canopies: use parafilm and cut it to shape or use x-press masks from eduard or similar

tinting canopies: mix clear gloss/future with a little bit of paint. apply a THIN coat then apply another THIN coat.

photoetch is for extra details, stuff that isn't included in the model, and stuff that is a poor representation. think about them like detail-up

to cut circles in plastic, use a cutting cumpas

to correct warps, soak the piece in almost hot water, water that is warm enough to stick your hand in. after soaking, bend.

to fill gaps, glue the part together WELL then aply putty/gap filling superglue. sand putty after it is dry, and sand gap filling superglue after about 5 minutes. after that it will be too hard.

to fix sjkuff marks, use an eraser then sand and repiant

feel free to post any here
  • Member since
    November 2005
Techniques FAQ: Check here before asking
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 16, 2003 4:58 PM
once and for all:
instead of posting a new topic everytime you want to learn something, i will post it here instead. moderater( s ), please make this topic "sticky"

scribing panel lines: you use a squadron or bmf or other brand scriber and use a steel rular and scribe.

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