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Please help with photo etch!

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  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: West Virginia, USA
Posted by mfsob on Sunday, September 25, 2005 8:58 PM
I second using a piece of wire to apply CA, as I am into 1/700 ships also. I stumbled on that after trying some of those fancy "precision" gluing tips from the hobby shop, that were good for maybe two drops of glue before clogging up. I can't afford that, for one thing!

I just use a cheap roll of 32-gauge wire that I think I bought eons ago to hang pictures, and as the tip gets blobby with dried super glue, I just snip it off to get a clean end.

The down side to using wire is, the cut end is SHARP ... as in, will easily poke into your fingertip sharp. When said wire is coated with super glue, some interesting things result. Yuck [yuck]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 22, 2005 7:52 PM
This can be a patience tester! But, you really have to work slowly until you get a better feel for it. Do some parts folding at one sitting and think about walking away. Once that's done, you finished something successfully. Take the next step the next day.
This IS NOT the same territory as when you were a kid and could do no wrong in any given sitting wtih plastic parts, glue and paint. This stuff can still test you after years of using it. Seriously!
I do 1:700 ships, primarily. SK-2 radars that have 8 parts for assembly when the finished item measures no more than a 1/4 of an inch square is a good indication of what photo etch nighmares can be like. IMO, they should never be attempted in one sitting. No matter what your experience level.
Sometimes you can limit yourself by not having the right tools for the job.
Do you have.....
1. a ceramic tile or piece of glass for cutting/shaping the PE parts on?
A hard, steady surface is a must. Use this to cut parts off of their tree by pressing down and cutting with a SHARP fresh razor blade. Some like a PE cutting tool..... I like this way better. And watch your part when you cut. Don't let 'er shoot off your work area!

2. Good pair of small, flat ended needle nose? (not seraded either, smooth)
A quality pair that will handle the small parts. Consider high end stuff, i.e.~ German made.... You mentioned that parts were stuck to your fingers. IMO, fingers should stay off of photo etch parts. Too many variables with the fingers. Let that quality pair of needle nose or high-end tweezers grab at and handle these delicate parts. You won't fumble around as much this way.

3. Proper lighting. Don't under estimate the value. I own the Ott Lite. Don't know how I ever did without it.

4. Use a thin super glue like Zap A Gap. Put the super glue on a pallet that will keep several drops of it in a puddle form for a while. Yeah, it can be done without drying!
Use plastic lids to do so. Like the ones off of coffee cans? Or Chinese take-out soup lids?..... This particular kind of plastic has a recycle code on it. A triangle with a numer 4 or 2 in the center of it. Drop small super glue puddles on it. And leave it there until you're ready for it. Yes, eventully it will get thick. You'll know when it's too thick. Make another puddle.

5. A wire applicator. Copper, stainless, tungsten steel.....whatever. Use your wire to apply in PRECISION. To my mind, these PE parts need precise applications of CA glue. (super glue) The wire technique allows for this. Simply dip the wire into the puddle of glue, and with a steady hand.........

6. Photo etch bending tool. Good to have, but not completely neccesary. You can work with flat edge razor blades to bend PE. I did it for years. The tool is nice, though.

7. Safety glasses. Don't laugh. You don't want a small piece of brass shooting into your eye.

8. Mike Ashey did a great job in his book," The Basics of Ship Modeling"
His chapter on photo etch made me learn how to tackle this stuff.

Don't let photo etch beat ya! You CAN do it. You will need to have patience, and realise small victories when you work with it. Walk away from it BEFORE you NEED TO WALK AWAY FROM IT. This succession of baby steps will do your heart good, at least until you get more experience under you belt !!

And the end result will be that you'll be proud of your work, and all your friends and family will swear you're friggin' nuts to work with stuff that small !! LOL!! Regards~ Craig
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 22, 2005 1:53 PM
Testors Cement for Wood and Metal models works great for gluing PE parts. It is more viscous than CA and is slower drying than CA giving you working time. It dries harder than CA in my opinion. The only downsides are the fumes and that it can get stringy, but not like Testors Tube Cement.
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Utereg
Posted by Borg R3-MC0 on Thursday, September 22, 2005 10:23 AM
How about starting with simple pe sets before tackeling difficult things like bending and glueing a whole bomb-bay!

Just start with some seatbelts and cockpitsets before you move on to the difficult stuff. Respect your own learning curve.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 22, 2005 7:03 AM
As a fellow PE newcomer, I can offer a few bits of advice regarding what worked for me. First of all, proper tools are a must. I have done my work so far with a pair of razor blades but have recently ordered an Etch Mate since it seems like a clearly superior solution.

I also use a 3x magnifying glass and a light to make sure that I can actually see what I'm working on. Some self-locking tweezers are invaluable for holding the parts, especially during gluing. Generally speaking you need very little glue if you can file the mating edges flat, but even if it's not perfect a small drop or 2 of thick CA should hold just about anything as long as it's close to fitting.

Finally, work slowly. My first project was an interior for some aircraft, and I eventually just gave up on it after botching the project. Rather than trying to do a solid hour (or more) of detail work, do 10-15 minutes a night so that you can really concentrate on the couple of pieces you do each time. Good luck with it.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 22, 2005 2:05 AM
Same thing happened to me, Jeff hearne was nice enuff to take time out and give a suggestion, it will cost me 60 bucks but I figure it is worht it cuz I ain't quitting and I will use PE, "sooner or later". Pieces are just too small for me.
http://perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/misc/missionmodels/etchmate.htm

Good luck & have fun,

Bill
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 25, 2005 9:52 PM
Thanks!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 25, 2005 9:38 PM
jdlafrance54,

Photoetch can be a pain in the butt. Here are some suggestions:

1. Get debonder. If you mess up connecting two parts (or your fingers) just put some debonder on it and they will come apart.

2. Try taping parts together and then add the superglue. Use just enough tape to hold the parts and just a little bit of superglue. Once the glue dries, remove the tape and finish gluing the seam.

3. Try using both thin and thick superglues.

4. Be sure to wait about 5 -10 minutes for the glue to dry before moving the parts. You can also use an accelorater.

5. If you are folding PE, use two razor blades or invest in a PE bender.

6. Check out this website: http://www.ipmsgreatplains.com/Articles/PE-ScottConner.htm

7. And this one: http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/TnT_Archives/Photo_Etch.htm

Any other quetions, just let me know,
Jesse
  • Member since
    November 2005
Please help with photo etch!
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 25, 2005 8:52 PM
Hello all. I am new to modelling (my work from 20 yrs ago when I was a kid doesnt count!). My first "big" project I plan to under take once I do a couple of "scrap" kits to get used to airbrushing and stuff is a Monogram HE-111. I have bought the kit already and I stupidly spent the $20 to get the Eduard PE Bomb Bay. I tried putting it together and it looked TERRIBLE. I used super glue. I couldnt keep the parts together without seams and gaps. Parts stuck to my fingers. Parts broke. Parts wouldnt stay glued. All in all, it was a train wreck and a waste of $$. I cant even get the stupid pre-painted seatbelts to stay! Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance!
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