Another Question for you guys on washes

I'm guessing it was your use of the thinner that stripped the paint. I would recommend either using an oil wash, with high quality artist's oils and either Turpenoid or Mineral Spirits; or Swanny's acrylic sludge wash, which basically involves water, acrylic paint, and detergent.

I personally prefer oil washes using Mineral Spirits, but to each his/her own.

Mark

I spray my model with Model Master Acryl Gloss Clear. I then allow it to dry for 24 hours. I make the wash with Model Master Acryl paints and use Model Master Acryl thinner to thin out the mix.

Here's a decent link: http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/TnT_Archives/Washes-weathering.htm

Jesse

Thanks

Hey guys.
Surfing around, found this topic and decided to have a look, as i also could use some info about weathering and washes and it was definetly a great desition.
Jesse, that link is not just decent, but great though. Found very good helpfull info there. Thanks for sharing it with us.
jlafrance54, hope you can achive some nice results that pleases you.

Best Regards and Happy Modelling

Raudel.

Hi,
I don't want to start another topic, so I ask it here: I tried sludge washes, but my problem is that 1. no matter how tight I roll the paper, it takes everything out. 2. If I wait for the stuff to dry, it dries. It stays on the surface, and I have to rub real hard, and even after this you can't get it off completely... 3. the pigments run on the edge of the wash (read: outside on the surface instead of inside the panel lines). What do I screw up? (Just to mention: I do use the protocol for sludge washes.)

Did you use a dish liquid? It sounds like you aren't and the water has too much surface tension and badly wants to cohere.

Thats why I prefer oil washes.

Yes, I used detergent... (Hence the disclamer. ;) ) I'm not saying the mothod does not work - it's me who can't make it work... I tried olils, but the odorless thiner dissolved Future, acryl coat, everything. I'll try with Turpenol.

I usually don't sludge on the wash (I use a oil wash over future), use a small brush and try to let the wash go into the lines as you touch the brush onto the panel lines.

QUOTE: 1. no matter how tight I roll the paper, it takes everything out. 2. If I wait for the stuff to dry, it dries. It stays on the surface, and I have to rub real hard, and even after this you can't get it off completely... 3. the pigments run on the edge of the wash (read: outside on the surface instead of inside the panel lines). What do I screw up? (Just to mention: I do use the protocol for sludge washes.)

You HAVE to let the wash dry or all of it will be removed when you try to remove the excess. You also have to pick the appropriate thinner to remove the wash. I use artist's acrylics over Future exclusively and to remove the excess I use a Q-Tip barely moistened with Windex. DO NOT rub hard or long or the underlying Future will be harmed. Typically one pass is enough to get the wash off.

Here's how I do it:
http://www.craigcentral.com/models/wash.asp

Also being a new builder, this is by far the most frustating part of building for me. I know, I could just not do it, but I really like the look of a dirty bird.

I was working on the 1/48 Hase F-4G, I was really happy with my freehand camo (simple scheme, I know, but for my first try with my airbrush, I was extremely proud). Anyway, I used MM enamels, and let them cure for well over a week. I applied a gloss coat using MM Acryl and let that dry for well over 24 hours. I applied my wash with Windsor Newton oils thinned with mineral spirits (bought from Lowes, it's in a blue can). Let it sit for 20-25 minutes, then uing mineral spirits again, I started to remove it. Ate right through the gloss coat, ate through the paint, down to the bare plastic. Almost threw the plane against the wall. needless to say, oil washes scare me to death. I am working on the big 1/32 Flanker, and i am dreading the wash. I have been looking at sludge washes, controlled washes, but just not sure where to go.

So, after that rambling story, when y'all apply your gloss coat, do you apply a wet coat, or several light coats?

I've seen several references to Turpinoid, is this stuff not as "hot" as mineral spirits? I can steal some from my wife, she uses it for her oil paintings.

I just worried about ruining all the work i have put in on my current build.

Thank you!

Brian

HI, I use Turpenoid with great results, over acrylics with W&N oils, only difference is; I don't let it sit there for very long. I would follow MusicCity's advice.
Oh, Works great over enamels also. With Future. I don't recommend spraying anything with a "wet" coat, take your time and give it nice built up coats, but, that's just me. Agggg, just do as MusicCity says!

I agree with Bill here guys ...

a "wet coat" of anything probably ain't the best idea ... better off building up the layers gradually. Can you imagine a great bit of dust or some other imperfection lodged into that thick, wet layer ?? If it dries, that is a lot of sanding to remove the particle later ...

just a though ...
Vasso

You might read the article in FSM on the use of tempur paints. I have used this method with a combination of dry pastels with great effect, unfortunatly I can't remember the issue off the top of my head... Sorry.