Seams with liquid cement?

Yap, gotta agree with Bgrigg, obviously my method isn't correct, "This eliminates the need to fiil seams" will haunt me for years". I am like TOTALLY new to building airplanes much less model building in itself. I got the Tamiya 1/48 Me262 A-2a, All reviews say it is just 'bout perfect, but I haven't had anything but trouble with the fit, maybe they inteneded for the gun bays to be open, I want them closed, the fit is horrible, huge gaps. Also the wing to fuselage ain't too hot either. Actually, maybe I just didn't think my explaination bout the putty through, the fuselage itself went together with little or no putty 'cept right in front of the windscreen, so yes, the "weld" is the thing. And the wing halves are good to go also. If Tenax and Ambroid Proweld are hobby glues, My LHS does not carry them, So, I never got to see or use or hear of them. I have spent way too long puttying this d plane! Using Swanny's method to a T, just using Tamiya putty instead, did learn that I need to wait a little longer to start to use the nail polish & Q-tip method as opposed to Squadron White. But... it's getting there, the whole reason to do this build is so I can see if I can put a very complicated looking cammo pattern on the jet. I have really gotten into this ABing big time, can't wait to get done building so I can squeeze that trigger!! Anyway, thx for the "better Advice" Scott. I repainted this last night during the hurricane just for practice, it is like the first model I ever did, was in a very easy plain ol' desert yellow, just couldn't resist trying something new with the AB. It isn't finished, need to dull coat it, and add the reels on the fenders, the build itself it horrible, some seams showing, bad sanding, but... this was before I knew anything, I mean I knew NOTHING!. Course don't know much now either, LOL, but a little more than then. Thx to Scott and MikeV for the advice in a earlier thread I practice alot, it ain't great but compared to what I used to know, it is a quantum leap, just need good people like Scott and the other pros to help you out.

Bill

Dreams can come true, Scott!

The care and attention you put into your answers places you near the top of the expert list.

If if wasn't for you and your website (and Swanny's, too!) I would still be wandering around my house with bits of plastic stuck to my fingers, wondering why Matte base looks so darn chalky right out of the bottle!

QUOTE: [red]Yeah, what he said, now you have the advice of a real pro

Only in my dreams

Yeah, what he said, now you have the advice of a real pro, just do what he suggests, you need to see his builds and you will understand! Just click on his site there.

Liquid glues, such as Tenax, Ambroid ProWeld, or Tamiya Extra-Thin, are "Plastic Welders". They dissolve the plastic where they touch and effectively "Weld" the parts together with melted plastic. The advantage for areas such as fuselage halves is that when the glue melts it effectively fills the seam (or most of it) where the parts are joined. This lessens or eliminates the need to fill the seam. You can also squeeze the parts once the glue is applied and many times this will force a bead of melted glue out of the joint. This is handy for joints that are somewhat recessed because once everything has dried the bead can be sanded down and there will be no seam at all to deal with.

Liquid glues do not replace all other glues. The parts to be joined must already be together before gluing. You can't put the glue on the parts and then put the parts together, they must already be together. For many gluing jobs it is, in my opinion, the best but it won't do everything.

Bgrigg is right, I found out the hard way also. Be sure and sand the CA ASAP, use "accelerator" if you can or want to. Also, It is EXTREMELY difficult to scribe panel lines in CA. Everybody has their own methods of doing things. I kinda use the CA as an extra hand, put some on one end of fuselage or wing and then work my way down with liquid cement, I prefer putty for filling almost all gaps just in case I have to scribe a line or circle or whatever there, one other thing, over time CA gets brittle, pieces can "pop" off cuz it gets so dried out. Well, anyway, do what suits you best. Oh, another good reference is:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/
This man knows sooo much!!
LMAO, in answer to your original question, NO, tube glue is NOT liquid cement, liquid cement usually comes in a bottle with a tiny brush and it is usually as thin as water.

Be good & have FUN,

Bill

P.S. Cryptic Modeler: the use of putty comes in AFTER you have got the pieces glued together, and, usually after you have sanded down the glue that has squeezed out of the seam, I say usually cuz sometimes in some pieces it goes so well there is no glue outside of the seam. Then, If the piece has a gap or "step" (like wing to fuselage sometimes has a step there) u need to follow Swanny's method of filling gaps, The only difference for ME is that I don't like Squadron White, too gritty and shrinks,THAT's just ME. I use Tamiya putty but... am going to try Mr. Surfacer very soon, as soon as this hurricane is over and I can get to the LHS.

Have FUN

QUOTE: And there's nothing wrong with tube glue!!!!!

You're right. It's just that liquid cement works much better.

And there's nothing wrong with tube glue!!!!!

I recommend using liquid cement for nearly everything and tube cement only sparingly. I use Testors Liquid Cement. It works great and it is cheap. I don't use CA because I am allergic to it. I never did like filling gaps with CA anyways. I prefer to use Model Master Red putty. It gives you plenty of working time, dries within half an hour, can be thinned with liquid cement for small gaps, sands smooth easily, and it is red so you can see where you apply it and you won't have to worry about forgeting to fill gaps. The only disadvantage is that it is a lacquer based putty and is volatile and dangerous to your health if you inhale the fumes and don't use proper ventalation. Volatile doesn't mean explosive or combustible(which lacquer putty is near flames). It just means that the fumes will be given off rapidly.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Bgrigg CAUTION! when using it, as you want to sand before 10 minutes are up. After that it cures harder than the plastic is.

Thank you sir! So that's why I was having so much trouble! He he, learn something every time I come here.

Rich

Putty is used to correct defects in the mold or assembly. Large gaps between wing and fuselage, for instance. CA can also be used (ZapAGap is one brand name) but CAUTION! when using it, as you want to sand before 10 minutes are up. After that it cures harder than the plastic is.

where would the use of putty come into play

Testor's is pretty good too! I use Tamiya Super Thin, Tamiya Regular and Testor's. Tamiya Regular "feels" thicker (more viscous?) than the other two.

CA glue is very good, as well. Keep it away from your fingers as it cures instantly on skin. If you do use CA, be sure to have some Cutex acetone nail polish remover handy!

Gregory is quite right about the tube glue, though I find it handy for gluing in small pieces that the glue line won't be seen. Though the argument would be CA with accelerator would work better.

Sean:

How do I put this mildly DROP THE TUBE AND BACK AWAY SLOWLY!

Liquid glue - Tamiya - I use on a regular basis and it works well for me.

Another is Tenax-7 it really bonds well and quick under 10 seconds

For CA glues take your pick from the advertisers in FSM and you can't go wrong. Just stay away from the tube glue.

Cheers;

Gregory