How to drop flaps and move rudder?

wing_nut

Member since
April 2005
From: Piscataway, NJ!

Posted by wing_nut on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 11:29 PM

Drawing the back of the point of a sharp #10 or #11 blade works very well. An Xacto razor saw leaves a pretty thin kerf. If the space left by the saw is too wide a small shim of Evergreen sheet styrene can be glued to the end of the control surface and shaped

Marc

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uilleann

Member since
March 2004
From: Salt Lake City, Utah

Posted by uilleann on Wednesday, October 5, 2005 7:11 AM

You can also either use a large xacto blade, or a smaller size jeweler's saw or dovetailing saw. Most hobby shops have some variant of one or more of those methods.

"I may not fly with the eagles.....but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines!"

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qtaylor

Member since
March 2005
From: Nova Scotia, Canada

Posted by qtaylor on Friday, September 30, 2005 8:28 PM

I used a cut-off wheel on a Dremel-type motor tool. I wasn't extremely happy with it because the cut-off tool is too thick. I've found that I'm putting plastic back on the peices to make it all fit.

Next will be trying to figure out how to make the hinges, etc.

Thanks again, Berny.

QT

"Neither a purist nor a perfectionist be."

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jinithith2

Member since
January 2005
From: returning to the FSM forum after a hiatus

Posted by jinithith2 on Friday, September 30, 2005 7:23 PM

does it take a long time to cut the control surfaces off?
I've attempted it once but gave up cos it was taking too long
what is a good technique for it?

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berny13

Member since
February 2003
From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley

Posted by berny13 on Friday, September 30, 2005 7:00 PM

Yes, the wire acts as a pin or brace to help hold the control surface in position. It also helps with the allignment to make sure it fits correctly.

Berny

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qtaylor

Member since
March 2005
From: Nova Scotia, Canada

Posted by qtaylor on Friday, September 30, 2005 3:10 PM

Thanks Berny,

Do you mean to use the wire similar to how others would call 'pinning'; like with a pin? Also, I don't quite understand what you mean by a brace.

QT

"Neither a purist nor a perfectionist be."

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berny13

Member since
February 2003
From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley

Posted by berny13 on Friday, September 30, 2005 2:49 PM

To start with, use some fine wire to act as a brace. Drill holes into both surfaces and use the wire as an attachment point. This will give it some strength. Then simply glue the rudder and elevators in the desired position. If you also cut the ailerons, remember one will be up and one will be down. I have done this many times and it has always worked for me.

Berny

Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale.

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale. F-4 Phantom Group Build.

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qtaylor

Member since
March 2005
From: Nova Scotia, Canada

How to drop flaps and move rudder?

Posted by qtaylor on Friday, September 30, 2005 2:43 PM

I did a few searches on the forum and didn't find anything. Please forgive me if this is posted somewhere I missed.

I cut my model. This is only airplane #8 for me, and I cut it! This is rather stressfull :) Now...to get it back together with the elevators down, and the rudder to the side....

I built up an imperfect round edge on the rudder and elevators with milliput, and rifled out a smooth indent on the static parts of the plane, and they fit together reasonably, but I'm quite hoping that some of you may be able to suggest some fine-tuning hints before I try to slap it back together.

Kit is a Hasegawa Hurri II in 1/48.

Thanks in advance for any help.

QT

"Neither a purist nor a perfectionist be."

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