Safe wash over FUTURE

If your Future is well cured (48 hours minimum), an oil wash thinned with turpentine will not eat through it. Turpenoid is just turpentine minus the odor.

Mike

thanks mike.. one more question.. after applying the oil wash on future.. how long till i clean it up with a damp cotton bud with turpentine?

Luis: No specific time but in 30 minutes the wash should be dry enough to wipe over. Instead of using a damp cloth, I will use a piece of dry cloth as this will remove most of the wash where you don't want it. It is very seldom that I have to use a dampened swab to remove wash. The key is to keep the wash thin. If you wipe it out of the panel lines you can always go back and reapply. Might have to do this more than once if the panel lines are shallow.

Mike

thanks i'll keep that in mind. btw i still consider myself a newbie on "liquid" washes.. would it be advisable for me to start with acrylic or watercolor washes first before i jump to oil? i know both have almost the same results but which is better and idiot free of the 3?

Might try a chalk wash or one made with tempera paints. Both are very forgiving as you can rmove them fairly easily if you don't like the results.

Mike

Hi Luis,
Yep, let the Future cure a coupla days at least like Golden says, Just a coupla weeks ago I used oils 4 the 1st time and had no problems at all, it was alot of fun actually. One thing to remember is: when and if you need to remove the oil wash, don't go "scrubbing" the surface!!! Use your own method, I am just telling you what I personally did with great results (IMO), I thinned it like almost every1 suggests, kinda like dirty water, I use a pointy paint brush, I dab it in the wash and then just touch it to an old towel, the towel wicks out excess wash, I don't let it wick out ALL the wash, just a touch is enough! Then I touch the tip to a panel line, edge of hatch, bolt, etc., etc. Ok, now here is the thing for me, after I have done this, I look at it and see if I put it where I wanted and see if there is overflow to where I don't want it, if there is I then take a Q-tip and soak up the wash where I don't want it, IF it remains dirty, I gently wipe it clean with clean Q-tips right then, it just makes it easier than waiting till it's all dry then Come back with more mineral spirits, or tupentine, later. To me, it usually happens that I am going to need more wash in the same place to achieve the desired effect. Better too little than too much, to me! Some people like to make their model as dirty as possible, they will get a big brush and just coat the whole model, if that is what u like then go right ahead, just wick the excess buildup, like in corners with a tissue or Q-tips. Watercolors and pastels are great also, I am just telling you what I know of my experience with oils, It ain't near as scarey as it sounds, it was very easy 2 me. It always ended up that I had to keep adding more to build up the desired effect, because I thinned it alot. I am in no big hurry, I enjoy the building/painting process, I hate it when the model is complete.
Here is a good site to learn from:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Weathering.html
Now, understand, my washes went on armor!

These road wheels were just plain ol' dark yellow b4 the oil wash.



I really shouldn't have put these pix up, u can see more in my album, but they are quick reference I guess.

Be good & have fun,
Bill

i think i'll try both acrylic and oil washes first! your model looks great though! i don't mind you doin the wash on armor because i make SW models thanks for the reference pics and all your help!