Paint confusion... enamel help

There's really no recommended paints per say since there are quite alot of brands out there. Some use enamels, some use enamels AND acrylics. It's just a matter of preference.

If you live in the US, for enamels there are really only two choices left nowadays- Testors/Model Master, and Humbrol. Just about every other brand of enamel paints here has gone the way of the Dodo. I much prefer Hunbrol for the quality if I have a choice between the two brands for whatever color. Once you master the peculiarities associated with stirring and their tins, you will find they have superior quality control. And will give your the deadest flat finish of any hand brush painted paints (stirred, not shaken Mr Bond), as well as better one coat coverage.

If you are in Europe, you also have Revell and Xtracolor. Revell is good, on par with Humbrol in my experience, but I would not recomment Xtracolor unless you plan on airbrushing. They are great paints, but almost all of the line is gloss to bypass the gloss coat step for decaling in the finishing process. And being gloss they have a longer drying time.

I started with Testors (even a few Pactra), still use em. Not a lot of variety in the square bottles, but the Model Master line pretty much covers just about anything you'll need.

HOORAY for enamels!!!

I also use the Testors line of enamels, almost exclusively.  I use both the Model Masters and the little square bottles.  I use the Model Master stuff for exact colors without a lot of mixing, and the square bottles for primary colors, as I can find it at craft stores, which are closer than hobby shops in my area.

The only drawback I find with enamels is that the glossy enamels take a long time to dry.  I built a homemade drying box that greatly speeds up the drying time.  I find flats dry fast enough I do not need the drying box for them.

There is also colourcoats which is now under new managment and is being sold in the US. I have used them a few times and i do like them.

I mainly use Xtracolor and i disagree on the long drying times. I find they are usually touch dry within 12 hours and if not masking i can easily complete a 3 colour camo scheme in a day.

Bish

There is also colourcoats which is now under new managment and is being sold in the US. I have used them a few times and i do like them.

I mainly use Xtracolor and i disagree on the long drying times. I find they are usually touch dry within 12 hours and if not masking i can easily complete a 3 colour camo scheme in a day.

 

12hours???

Using MM enamels...I can and have painted belly and three color camo top in a matter of 2-3 hours...that includes masking (tape and/or poster-tac). I wouldn't call the paint cured, by any means, but certainly dry enough to mask and peel away masking. Typically, wherever I start painting on the model, is dry enough to hold the model by the time I'm to the end. I usually hold a wing...spray the other wing first, then work the fuselage and tail...by the time that's done, I hold it by the wing I painted first, to spray the other. Give it 5-10 minutes...mask...repeat.

I know, gloss is a horse of a different color...I don't use it at all.

Just for contrast, I'll post up because I'm primarily an acrylics man, myself. I use the Model Master Acryl ones. I love the ease of cleanup (water or windex) and they are less toxic around my kids. They are fragile, finicky paints that do not stick nearly as well as enamels, and brushing acrylics is pretty tricky as well. I rely on a lacquer clearcoat (spray can) or a coat of Future (brushed on) to get more durability out of them. I spray 95% of my model parts with an airbrush--as much as I can get away with. But a coat is usually dry inside of 10 minutes, which is the other huge bonus. The non-toxic nature and quick dry time make the acrylics very appealing to me.

Occasionally I will spray an enamel, usually thinned with a little lacquer thinner. I do a test shot usually to make sure this will work, and also it's almost always because I can't find a certain color in the enamels.

Don--do you have a thread or pictures somewhere of your drying booth? I'd love to see that. I'm sure you've probably posted it somewhere before and I've just missed it.

--Chris

fermis

 

 

Bish

There is also colourcoats which is now under new managment and is being sold in the US. I have used them a few times and i do like them.

I mainly use Xtracolor and i disagree on the long drying times. I find they are usually touch dry within 12 hours and if not masking i can easily complete a 3 colour camo scheme in a day.

 

 

 

 

12hours???

Using MM enamels...I can and have painted belly and three color camo top in a matter of 2-3 hours...that includes masking (tape and/or poster-tac). I wouldn't call the paint cured, by any means, but certainly dry enough to mask and peel away masking. Typically, wherever I start painting on the model, is dry enough to hold the model by the time I'm to the end. I usually hold a wing...spray the other wing first, then work the fuselage and tail...by the time that's done, I hold it by the wing I painted first, to spray the other. Give it 5-10 minutes...mask...repeat.

I know, gloss is a horse of a different color...I don't use it at all.

 

I don't really consider 12 hours to be a long time, after all, its not a race and i only do one build at a time rather than a production line, but as i do dio's there is always things to be doing on the build. I will usually spray in the early evening and then i can be doing other things and will do the next coat the next night if not masking.

I much prefer the gloss colours as it saves that extra step of a gloss coat and the little extra time it takes to dry makes upfor waiting forna gloss coat to dry.

dirkpitt77

 

Don--do you have a thread or pictures somewhere of your drying booth? I'd love to see that. I'm sure you've probably posted it somewhere before and I've just missed it.

 

--Chris

 

I did post about the drying box, but it has been awhile, so here is the picture again.

The unit has two chambers.  The bottom box is made from particle board, and has a 60 watt incandescent bulb in it.  The top has holes in it so heat can flow up into the top chamber.  One end has a big slot covered with a cloth filter so filtered air can flow into the chamber to allow the heated air to rise into the upper chamber.

The top chamber is one of those plastic carrying cases we transport our models in.  It is mounted upside down- the top is affixed to the lower compartment and what is the main part of the case nestles in the top.  All of the top except the outer portion is cut away to allow heated air to rise into the upper chamber.  There is a hole in what is now the top surface (previously the bottom) to allow air to flow out and maintain circulation.  That hole is covered by another cloth filter.  These cloth filters are ones from the hardware store intended to filter air from floor mounted heating ducts.

I originally mounted a dimmer unit in the line to the bulb but run it wide open- the full 60 watts is just right- drys enamel in about three hours dry to touch or for recoat.  I leave it for about eight before masking.

The junk in the left background is my homemade spray booth, not part of the drying box.

Put me in the all-enamel camp.  As Stik said, ModelMaster and Humbrol for me as well!  I believe I've used acrylic paint on two models in the last 30 years.  Solvent-based enamels just work really well for me.  In a former career, I was a professional painter, commercial and residential.  And in that endeavor, I preferred working with oil-based enamel.

I still take on a few paint jobs; just this week I've been painting for my son and his family.  Man, painting the trim work with Sherwin-Williams Pro-Classic Alkyd enamel is just dream work.  It looks so damned good, almost like the wood was dipped in paint.  But here, as in so many other areas, success depends on the Indian, rather than the arrow.  That said, working with great paint makes it easier for the "Indian".  Thus spake the "Old Enamelator". 

Gary

I like that drying box, Don. I recently moved to the Pacific Northwest, where the air is quite a bit more humid than my old home in Colorado. I haven't quite gotten my new modeling bench set up yet, but I'll be interested to see how paint behaves out in these parts.

Thanks for posting that up!

--Chris

I have been using enamel paints for 45 years now (yes, I'm REALLY that old!) and, in my opinion, nothing beats enamels for compatibility with plastics, or the durability; a good coat of enamel paint will definitely last longer than the model it's on. I will continue to use enamels for as long as possible (even though my wife constantly complains that "they really smell"!). And, just like Don, I use primarily Testors MM enamels (or acryls when I can't find the right color in enamel).

However, all that being said, a word of advice: It has come to my attention over the last few years that, for whatever reason, Testors has been slowly phasing out their MM line of enamels; I know of at least 10 colors (primarily in their American FS line) that have been "dropped" in the last couple of years, including one of my favorite "go-to" colors, Armor Sand (FS 30277). The good news is that all of those colors, and more, are still available as MM acrylics. I would strongly suggest, especially since you're just getting started in the hobby, that you at least attempt to use acrylics, otherwise your color options will be limited, especially in the future.

I am also of the opinion that the paint industry is somehow being pressured to get rid of enamels, since they are "environmentally hazardous", and acrylics are much more "environmentally friendly" in that respect. I can see a day in the not too distant future when I will be forced to switch to acrylics, just because of the dearth of colors available in enamels. I am slowly but surely trying to get used to the notion that I will be using only acrylics eventually. Plus, I won't have to listen to my wife tell me that my paint smells anymore! Also, clean-up is a lot easier, since you can use water, instead of petroleum-based solvents.

All in all, I would recommend you at least give acrylics a shot, since it would appear that that is where the industry is headed.