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Painting aircraft bombs and missiles

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  • Member since
    December, 2016
Painting aircraft bombs and missiles
Posted by JohnMatt on Sunday, December 04, 2016 12:10 PM

There's got to be an easier way, yes? Please just tell me I made a mistake and never have to do this much masking again. That's about 2.5 hours right there and I'm not done with the AMRAAMs.

And what about JDAMS, where the guidance kit has holes where the bomb color peaks through? Has anyone done this before?

 

masked bombs

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, December 05, 2016 2:35 PM

There are narrow masking tapes, in the range of around 1/16 inch or 1/8 inch. 

Also, for small dots of color, I use a toothpick- the round type with the sharp tips.  I shake a bottle of paint, take the lid off and turn it upside down on my benchtop.  I dip the end of the tip into the paint that sticks to the top, and touch it to the surface I am painting.  Touching it to a piece of cardboard before touching it to the model surface results in even a smaller dot.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, December 05, 2016 3:05 PM

For the JDAMs in the holes try silly putty as a masking agent.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December, 2016
Posted by JohnMatt on Monday, December 05, 2016 10:07 PM

Hmm, silly putty.  Will blue tack work?  I don't have any silly putty.  I also have Bob Dively's masking fluid but my experience with it has been less than satisfying.

Don, thanks for the tip.  These holes are a few mm wide so a toothpick probably won't cut it.

Moderator
  • Member since
    April, 2006
  • From: my keyboard dreaming of being at the workbench
Posted by Aaron Skinner on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 8:58 AM

JohnMatt

Hmm, silly putty.  Will blue tack work?  I don't have any silly putty.  I also have Bob Dively's masking fluid but my experience with it has been less than satisfying.

Don, thanks for the tip.  These holes are a few mm wide so a toothpick probably won't cut it.

 

Blu-Tack works well, but it can sometimes leave a residue on the paint if left on too long. It's great for keeping joining points free of paint; I use it a lot of road-wheel axles and the like.

Cheers, Aaron

Aaron Skinner

Senior Editor

FineScale Modeler

  • Member since
    April, 2016
  • From: Parsons Kansas
Posted by Hodakamax on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 10:34 AM

All I can say or advise is that I paint with a brush much better than I mask at least on ordnance. A good selection of small brushes with different tips works for me. I do spray the base color and do tips and fins with brushes. Stripes can be done with stripeing tape cut to width and pre-painted if necessary. Enamel gives a better flow time with brushes. Whatever works I say, but hours of masking can also go astray when removing the masks. Give it a try, you get better with each hour of practice, lol, and that's kinda what modeling is all about.  Smile

Max 

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 1:14 PM

When it comes to sidewinders and other missiles and rockets, I never mask off the tips. They're gonna be white overall regardless. Paint the tips by hand. Not worth spending hours masking the tips or fins. Same thing for bombs and other ordinances. Keep it simple without making hard work for yourself.

  • Member since
    December, 2016
Posted by JohnMatt on Tuesday, December 06, 2016 10:00 PM

Thanks, fellas.  Maybe I'll skip the masking next time around.  Here are the bombs so far, haven't sprayed the missiles yet.

 

bombs

  • Member since
    December, 2016
Posted by JohnMatt on Saturday, December 10, 2016 9:32 PM

Still moving forward.  A little more painting and basic decals for the ordnance to be done.  Then attach landing gear and engines; weather and dull cote.

 

 

  • Member since
    December, 2016
Posted by JohnMatt on Monday, January 09, 2017 11:02 PM

Painted, panel washed and decaled!  Woot!  Maybe 15 more hours since my last post. 

 

The bolt on sections (the strakes on the nose and main body) of the JDAMs are kinda sloppy for me.  I was very frustrated that night and just rushed through them.  They look fine at arm's length and will mostly be hidden on display anyway.

 

Up close, you can actually read some of the warnings on the AIM-9L Sidewinders.

I kid you not, one actually says: "Do Not Roll, Tumble or Drop"   facepalm  :lol: 

 

The color coded stripes on the air-to-air weapons indicate status.  Blue (not seen here) indicate an inert weapon for training exercises.  Yellow means "active sensors", brown means "combustible".  So two brown means "live engine" and "live payload".  In training exercises where weapons are fired, you might see yellow for a "live seeker", brown for "live engine" and blue for "won't actually blow anything up".

 

For bombs with no engine, it's just yellow or blue for will or won't detonate.

 

Rail launchers and drop tanks.  The lines on the tanks aren't me being lazy (God forbid), those are weld lines or assembly joints.  This is actually my second set of drop tanks.  I didn't like my first attempt so I contacted Revell, had them send me a replacement pair and redid them.

 

  • Member since
    January, 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Monday, January 09, 2017 11:34 PM

No matter how ya slice it...painting and decaling ordnance SUCKS.

I'm working on the same kit right now...customer wants it loaded up with JDAMs and CBU's...really looking forward to that!Confused

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 1:37 AM

Actually brown stripes mean a live rocket motor, or "low explosive" and yellow means live HE warhead. Yellow stripes on bombs are the same as on missiles or rockets (or grenades or srtllery shells)- a live high explosive charge within. Blue means a training/inert section, be it a rocket motor or a warhead section. A training warhead with an active seeker can be mated to an inert warhead and/or flight motor. 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 10:10 AM

You did a fine job painting those. Well done!

  • Member since
    December, 2016
Posted by JohnMatt on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 8:01 PM

How do you plan on doing the openings on the jdam kits, where the bomb shows through?

 

Someone suggested masking them with silly putty which sound like a good idea.  I have to admit, that's the sloppiest thing I've ever done on a model.

  • Member since
    December, 2016
Posted by JohnMatt on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 8:04 PM

stikpusher

Actually brown stripes mean a live rocket motor, or "low explosive" and yellow means live HE warhead. Yellow stripes on bombs are the same as on missiles or rockets (or grenades or srtllery shells)- a live high explosive charge within. Blue means a training/inert section, be it a rocket motor or a warhead section. A training warhead with an active seeker can be mated to an inert warhead and/or flight motor. 

 

I thought so too, until I read otherwise... it seemed like everywhere I looked there was a different interpretation.  Can I assume by your avatar thast you have first hand experience?

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, January 10, 2017 9:37 PM

Yes I have first hand experience with ordnance of various sorts, live and inert. The US military has a color coding system to denote various types of ordnance. I don't know how old it is exactly, but an educated guess says that it goes back to the late 50's/early 60's. 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December, 2016
Posted by JohnMatt on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 9:41 PM

Hey stikpusher, I did a search about weathering and you posted a bit about it.  Could you chime in on my other thread in the Techniques section if you get a chance?

Btw, I'm also a huge Plankton fan.  Wink

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 10:28 PM

Sure, I'll take a look and see if I can help out...

and yea, ya gotta love Plankton. He is just my speed...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

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