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Weird lines in my wash

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  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: San Diego
Weird lines in my wash
Posted by Centurion on Sunday, February 1, 2009 10:06 PM

I've been getting weird lines in my washes when I don't lay down the paint just right. Or if the wash doesn't cover the entire area on the first shot, you'll end up seeing wash lines the second time around. Does this make sense?  I mixing Tamiya Acrylic paints with water and a dash of soap really thin. It makes a good wash, but maybe it's in my technique. Any advise to get a smooth wash without lines?

Thanks,
Burt

Master of my own miniature worlds.

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Southeast Louisiana
Posted by Wulf on Tuesday, February 3, 2009 7:26 AM

Might have to post a pic of the problem...not following you.

Andy

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: San Diego
Posted by Centurion on Tuesday, February 3, 2009 3:01 PM

Hey Andy,

I'll try and post a photo when I get home. In the meantime I'll try and explain a little more. You know when you lay down your wash, let it dry, and then afterwards you can see how it creates a line between the dark wash and your underlying paint job? For the most part it should blend in smoothly like a gradient effect. Then, in my case, if it doesn't blend well and then you start to put more paint on, you start to see lines of wash that are created from drying unevenly. Does that help or make sense? I guess I'm trying to figure out a good method for blending the wash. Could it be my choice of using Acrylic paint instead of an oil based paint or ink to do the wash?

Thanks

Master of my own miniature worlds.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Tuesday, February 3, 2009 6:09 PM

What you're describing are almost certainly what's known as "tide marks".

These occur when the surface tension in the water ""pulls" pigments in your wash to the edges of the area covered by your wash. When it dries, this presents as a ring or a series of concentric rings resembling a topographic map if it dries unevenly through temperature variations etc.

This can often be exacerbated by the water containing dissolved minerals, (eg. tap water in "hard water" areas) or other impurities which can accumulate around the edges in the same way as the water evaporates. It's also more prominent on flat surfaces, as opposed to gloss.

You can try adding a little more dish soap (enough so that the wash mix "spreads flat" and doesn't bead up), and using distilled/demineralised water to thin your wash.

This problem can also occur when using oil washes. However, in this case one can minimise the effect by brushing clean thinner over the entire area to "pre-wet" the surface before beginning to apply the wash. This helps the edges blend.

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: San Diego
Posted by Centurion on Tuesday, February 3, 2009 6:26 PM
 Phil_H wrote:

What you're describing are almost certainly what's known as "tide marks".

These occur when the surface tension in the water ""pulls" pigments in your wash to the edges of the area covered by your wash. When it dries, this presents as a ring or a series of concentric rings resembling a topographic map if it dries unevenly through temperature variations etc.

This can often be exacerbated by the water containing dissolved minerals, (eg. tap water in "hard water" areas) or other impurities which can accumulate around the edges in the same way as the water evaporates. It's also more prominent on flat surfaces, as opposed to gloss.

You can try adding a little more dish soap (enough so that the wash mix "spreads flat" and doesn't bead up), and using distilled/demineralised water to thin your wash.

This problem can also occur when using oil washes. However, in this case one can minimise the effect by brushing clean thinner over the entire area to "pre-wet" the surface before beginning to apply the wash. This helps the edges blend.

Hey Phil,

You're describing my problem exactly. Thanks for correct wording. I'll try and add a little more dish soap and use distilled water. Hopefully that will do the trick.

Thanks

Master of my own miniature worlds.

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Southeast Louisiana
Posted by Wulf on Wednesday, February 4, 2009 8:39 AM

I got ya now...

I agree with Phil and will add this as well. Add a little white vinegar to the wash. For some reason, the vinegar causes the pigments to pool in the corners and recessed areas with a smoother transition to the base color. Just add a few drops to your mix.

ANdy

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: San Diego
Posted by Centurion on Wednesday, February 4, 2009 2:42 PM
 Wulf wrote:

I got ya now...

I agree with Phil and will add this as well. Add a little white vinegar to the wash. For some reason, the vinegar causes the pigments to pool in the corners and recessed areas with a smoother transition to the base color. Just add a few drops to your mix.

ANdy

Thanks Andy, I will try that as well. By the way, I saw the gallery on your site. Great stuff man!

Master of my own miniature worlds.

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Southeast Louisiana
Posted by Wulf on Wednesday, February 4, 2009 5:39 PM
 Centurion wrote:
 Wulf wrote:

I got ya now...

I agree with Phil and will add this as well. Add a little white vinegar to the wash. For some reason, the vinegar causes the pigments to pool in the corners and recessed areas with a smoother transition to the base color. Just add a few drops to your mix.

ANdy

Thanks Andy, I will try that as well. By the way, I saw the gallery on your site. Great stuff man!

Thanks!

Andy

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: San Diego
Posted by Centurion on Thursday, February 5, 2009 12:33 AM

Hey All,

I was finally able to take some photos of what I was talking about. Check out the links.

Image 01

Image 02

Master of my own miniature worlds.

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: San Diego
Posted by Centurion on Saturday, June 6, 2009 12:41 AM

Hey Guys,

It's been a while since I last posted to this thread, but I thought I would ask a question in line with washes. While I haven't had the issue with the lines in my wash, I am having some issues with the soap I add to my wash. I noticed the other day while I was wiping away some excess paint that the surface started to foam up. I then realized I must have agitated the soap to cause some very light bubbles. How do I stop this from happening? Should I use a different kind of soap, less soap or what? I was using just your regualr dish soap. Any advise?

Thanks

Master of my own miniature worlds.

  • Member since
    July 2008
Posted by Greasy on Tuesday, June 9, 2009 9:40 AM

Sounds like you are using to much soap.  Just touch the tip of the brush in the soap and mix that in with the wash.  I have also used the granual soap that goes in a dish washer.  I take 1 tsp of water (medince cup like with cough syurp) and about 4-5 grains mix it up and use a drop or to of that.  It is made not to foam up as much.

 Now I just use flow aid from liqutex, takes just a drop or two.  A bootle is about 5 bucks but I  have been useing the same bottle of almost 10 years now.  I don't think it has a shelf life.  I get it at hobby lobby.

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Tuesday, June 9, 2009 11:59 AM
Try using rubbing alcohol instead of water... You won't need soap at all and it evaporates faster than water.

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: San Diego
Posted by Centurion on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 1:16 AM
 Greasy wrote:

Sounds like you are using to much soap.  Just touch the tip of the brush in the soap and mix that in with the wash.  I have also used the granual soap that goes in a dish washer.  I take 1 tsp of water (medince cup like with cough syurp) and about 4-5 grains mix it up and use a drop or to of that.  It is made not to foam up as much.

 Now I just use flow aid from liqutex, takes just a drop or two.  A bootle is about 5 bucks but I  have been useing the same bottle of almost 10 years now.  I don't think it has a shelf life.  I get it at hobby lobby.

Thanks Greasy, I'll try less soap next time. And I do have some of the liqutex too, so I'll give that a go next time.

Master of my own miniature worlds.

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: San Diego
Posted by Centurion on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 1:19 AM

 Hans von Hammer wrote:
Try using rubbing alcohol instead of water... You won't need soap at all and it evaporates faster than water.

Hey Hans, thanks for the reply. I use all acrylic based paint and coat with Future, so I'm a little scared to use my 91% rubbing alcohol as a wash. While I'm aware of the method, I've also read that it doesn't do well with acrylics. What is your opinion on the matter?

Thanks

Master of my own miniature worlds.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 1:25 AM

Yep, over an acrylic base, it will strip the underlying paint, Future and all.

It may be worth considering switching to oil based washes over acrylics.

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 12:10 PM
 Centurion wrote:

 Hans von Hammer wrote:
Try using rubbing alcohol instead of water... You won't need soap at all and it evaporates faster than water.

Hey Hans, thanks for the reply. I use all acrylic based paint and coat with Future, so I'm a little scared to use my 91% rubbing alcohol as a wash. While I'm aware of the method, I've also read that it doesn't do well with acrylics. What is your opinion on the matter?

Thanks

I don't use Future, 'cept on floors.. But over acrylics, it's (alcohol) not a good idea... So I don't.  If I've used acrylics for a color coat, I overcoat with clear laquer or enamel, then apply the alcohol wash. If I used enamels for color, I overcoat with a rattle-can acrylic varnish (Brand name is "Tree House") and wash with enamels or oils...  

  

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Friday, June 12, 2009 10:43 AM
 Centurion wrote:

I mixing Tamiya Acrylic paints with water and a dash of soap really thin.

Doesn't the Tamiya acrylics bond too much to the parts so that you can't wipe the excess off as well?

I don't use Tamiya or MM acrylics for washes for that reason.

What I do is use Createx paints made for T-shirt airbrushing as they don't adhere well to non-porous materials. I put a few drops of the color I want in a mixing pallette, add some filtered water and a drop or two of Dawn dishwashing soap and mix it well. I paint it onto the model, such as onto panel lines, let it dry and wipe off the excess with a damp, flat, folded paper towel or a Q-tip.

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
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