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Suggested colors for dot filter with oils?

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  • Member since
    September 2015
  • From: The Redwood Empire
Suggested colors for dot filter with oils?
Posted by Aaronw on Sunday, April 5, 2009 2:56 PM

I've seen enough with the dot filter stuff to want to give it a try. Oil paints are not cheap and I live in the boonies where its not easy to just run to the store and get another color.

I'll be spending a few days in a city so plan on hitting Michaels while I'm there. 

I'm looking for some suggestions for a base 2-4 colors to get. I'm primarily looking at working with greens, browns / tans and greys (military helicopters). 

As far as thinner any suggestions? I mostly use acrylics and Future.

Also should I get a brush or two to keep seperate from my usual brushes?

Thanks

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wherever the hunt takes me
Posted by Boba Fett on Sunday, April 5, 2009 9:23 PM
I've only used the technique twice, but I would use red, yellow, blue, and a white. Thinner, I just use oderless mineral spirits. Brushes, I would keep 'em seperate. Hope it helps, and good luck!

  • Member since
    September 2015
  • From: The Redwood Empire
Posted by Aaronw on Monday, April 6, 2009 10:21 AM

Really I was expecting more black and browns, not primary colors.

Do you mix yours to make a specific color first or just dab on a little of each and let them mix on the model? 

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Hubert, NC
Posted by Gamewarden5 on Monday, April 6, 2009 5:44 PM

AAron,

Windsor and Newton make a fine set of water mixable oils. I would suggest the following: Burnt Umber (Dark Brown), Raw Umber, Burnt Sienna (Reddish Brown), Yellow Ochre, Van *** Brown, Lamp Black. These colors are great for doing dot filters.

The awesome thing about the water mixable oils is that they behave just like acrylics. They are mixable with water, (I use windex) they cure quickly (compared to oils) they are easy to use and they clean up with water. 

They are somewhat pricey, around 5.50 a tube but a tube will last you until your children are grown, gone to college, married, have children and their children have children.

I use these paints pretty much exclusively. I cannot give a better endorsement and I don't work for the company either.

Member: IPMS region 12 Eastern Carolina Plastic Modelers On the Bench: 1/72 Revell of Germany ATF Dingo 1/87th Lindbergh Tug Boat Life is full of choices, make one. Train easy, fight hard and die or Train hard, fight easy and live. Heroes stand on the shoulders of men greater than themselves.
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Monday, April 6, 2009 7:16 PM

Try here...

http://www.dickblick.com/items/00430-1009/

I started with the Winton starter set of 12 ML tubes and still have gobs of the paint left.. Oils go a LONG way...

  • Member since
    September 2015
  • From: The Redwood Empire
Posted by Aaronw on Wednesday, April 8, 2009 10:32 PM

The colors Gamewarden mentioned were more along those in the demonstration I saw done at a model show a couple years ago.

I went with Lamp black, Raw Umber, Burnt Sienna, Yellow Ochre, if I decide I like the technique I can always add more colors.

I did go with the regular oils and odorless thinner though. My understanding is that oil filters over acrylics or acrylic filters over enamels have a benefit of not disturbing the underlying paint. I use acrylics and Future extensively so was worried about the Windex (Future and Windex don't get along).

 

I am curious how you guys use the yellow, red, blue and green? I haven't seen that done. 

 

 

Thanks

  • Member since
    January 2012
Posted by I make stuff on Friday, April 10, 2009 12:24 PM

I've only done this ONE time, on my E100 documented in a WIP, including a misstep with trying to use water soluble oils and spirits, but I used red, blue, yellow, white, anything BUT earth tones.

As I understand it, you are removing so much of the paint, that its not designed to look like a "red" or other colored blob, it just looks like the paint in the undercoat varies in tone just a bit.

HTH

 

 

Bill  

  

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Friday, April 10, 2009 10:44 PM

I am curious how you guys use the yellow, red, blue and green? I haven't seen that done. 

Check Doog's posts on dot-filtering.. That's about the the only colors he DOES use, lol... 

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Steilacoom, Washington
Posted by Killjoy on Saturday, April 11, 2009 12:50 AM

Don't try dot filtering with black, it stays on too much, and changes the whole paint job!  Ditto what HvH said, Doog's tutorial is spot on!  Remember, it may look odd in the beginning, but the end result is awesome!

Good luck!

Chris

A veteran is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."

  • Member since
    September 2015
  • From: The Redwood Empire
Posted by Aaronw on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 2:24 PM

I guess it makes sense that the actual colors may not matter so much if the point is just to vary the colors a bit. What I've seen done is more of a weathering technique for staining areas. I may be using the wrong term for a similar technique (wash vs filter, I know there is a difference but couldn't really tell you what, its all a wash to me). 

Anyway, thanks and now that I have something to play with I'll start searching the forums again for examples. 

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 5:27 PM

A wash is completely different than a filter... The main purpose of the wash is to put heavily-thinned paint (or more accurately, heavily-tinted thinner) into all the recesses, nooks, & crannies of the model to add depth and to pop out panel lines and such without changing the base color.. Dot-filtering is for changing the overall base color in various places...

Personally, I don't care for it... I tried it on a Sherman and was quite disappointed with the look, so I'll stick to washes followed by drybrushing, airbrush fading, and pastels...

  • Member since
    September 2015
  • From: The Redwood Empire
Posted by Aaronw on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 6:42 PM

Sounds like I may have used the wrong term then. The demo I saw done was to give a dirty or greasy streaked look using oil paints, mostly browns and some black. The technique was what I've seen done with the dot filter, speckle the model with dots of oil paint then using thinner spread it out in a downward motion giving the impression water caused streaks in the dirt and grime.

 

I'm really just looking for something to spice up green helicopters, my standby washes and dry brushing I've used on armor just diesn't seem to work the same on helicopters. This seemed like a good technique when I saw it so I want to give it a try.

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