Can SnJ metal powder be stripped?

A little diluted Windex will wipe it all away. In a pinch so will dish soap and water. The adhesion of the polishing powder to the plastic is minimal at best...very fragile. It prefers something to bond onto such as paint.

You know you can always email me with these questions.

Thanks Aaron and Hawkeye!

I suppose I should have mentioned that I was going to apply the powder to a base of gloss white paint.

Hawk, I figured you'd be the leading expert in this field.  I've used the SnJ product a few years ago and had very good luck with it. But a couple of years ago I tried using the product on a huge B-36 and it just didn't turn out that great at all.  I wore doctor gloves and handled it with cloth towels to avoid getting finger oils on it but it still seemed to end up with finger smudges and it seemed like, in places, the powder just didn't want to stick.  So this will be my first attempt in a while at using it on a big model.

Right now I've got a base coat of Testor's Grey Primer which covered nicely.  Next I'm going to apply a coat of gloss white and then I'll buff the powder into that.

I'll be sure to post pics when it's all done!

Eric

Eric,

Why not give Alclad II a try? Many swear by it.

A reminder...Our club meets tomorrow (Tuesday) evening at 7PM at the HobbyTown in Oshkosh...you should come on down if you can make it. Next month it will be at the Hawk's nest for a cookout.

We're on Facebook too!

MikeV wrote:

Eric, Why not give Alclad II a try? Many swear by it.

Mike,

I've used Alclad with good success in the past as well.  For me, the metal powder and the Alclad have been used with equal success as well as equal gaffs.  I haven't used the metal powder in a little while so I thought I'd just give that another shot.

For me it's kind of a horse a piece.  Alclad = great care must be taken since it's a lacquer.  Cures as hard as a rock.

Metal powder = a little messier to work with, looks great, also a finish that's as tough as nails.

So it's six of one, half dozen of the other.  I just figured it was time to use the metal powder once again.

Eric

Gerald,

How often do you guys meet and it is always at the Hobbytown there in Oshkosh?

Eric

echolmberg wrote:

Alclad = great care must be taken since it's a lacquer.

True but that powder is bad too so I am sure you wear a respirator when handling it correct?

Oh you bet I do, Mike!  The very first time I used it, I didn't.  But then hours later I sneezed and blew my nose and turned the Kleenex silver!  In fact, that's the reason why I went out and bought a good quality respirator.  Then I had to run out and get contacts because the respirator and my glasses just didn't work out all that great. 

Eric 

echolmberg wrote:

Oh you bet I do, Mike!  The very first time I used it, I didn't.  But then hours later I sneezed and blew my nose and turned the Kleenex silver!  In fact, that's the reason why I went out and bought a good quality respirator.  Then I had to run out and get contacts because the respirator and my glasses just didn't work out all that great.  Eric

Ouch! If you sneezed on a flame it would have looked like a blow torch with all that aluminum in your nose.

You've got to remember a little of the powder goes a long ways. Use a foam makeup applicator to keep the powder under control and confined to the work surface.

I had a customer who kept using a whole bottle of powder per model.....great for my bottom line but he was surprised he actually got better results when he started using less with a better application technique. Not to mention no more cloud of powder surrounding ones head. There are some who think you need a lot or it ain't working...if the engine isn't screaming it ain't cranking out torque and horsepower...something we showed newbie fourwheelers that their rigs could and would climb steep hills running in low gear with the engine nearly at idle.

HawkeyeHobbies wrote:

You've got to remember a little of the powder goes a long ways. Use a foam makeup applicator to keep the powder under control and confined to the work surface.

I tried using the foam makeup applicator but it just wasn't addressing the oily issues of my T-zone.  (Just kidding)  I found out from my very first use that a little definitely goes a long way.  I actually use either cotton balls or I'll cut up an old T-shirt to buff the powder in.  I like the cotton balls the best but I feel bad every time I raid my wife's supply.  I really need to get my own bag of those things.

Gerald, if I decide to show up to a meeting one day, do I need to bring anything along?  A model I'd like to show?  A casserole?  A small gift?

Eric

echolmberg wrote:

HawkeyeHobbies wrote: You've got to remember a little of the powder goes a long ways. Use a foam makeup applicator to keep the powder under control and confined to the work surface.   Gerald, if I decide to show up to a meeting one day, do I need to bring anything along?  A model I'd like to show?  A casserole?  A small gift? Eric

Typically everyone brings a model for show n tell to all of our meetings. Many of us, not all meet before the meeting for dinner at Friar Tuck's which is just off they highway near the airport and just a quick 5 min drive to HobbyTown. It's a good time and makes the time together a bit longer since we only meet once a month and most drive a considerable distance to attend.

As far as if you were to show up for the July cookout, no there is always plenty to eat. After you've "joined" if you come to one of the special events, then yes a dish is a nice contribution.