Cleaning out old bottles.

Greasy wrote:

or the undisbuted champ "Easy Off oven Cleaner"  I have never seen any paint that can stand up to easy off.

Super Clean is even better and it contains the same active ingredient as Easy-Off...Sodium Hydroxide (aka Lye)

Hans von Hammer wrote:

smeagol the vile wrote: you know what, I asked a simple question, I just need the ****ing bottles cleaned, not a lecture on how im doing things wrong because it isnt' your way You pull this crap all the time, Smeaglet..  If you don't want to do it someone else's "way", then why the hell do you even ask for help?  Think anyone's going answer you with a different "way" than their own?  That's what happens here... People tell you how THEY do it, then the freakin' ball's in YOUR court as to use it or not...   Try the techniques given, or don't, nobody gives a sh*t either way.. It's your freakin' problem anyway, Scooter...

Greasy wrote:

I agree with the orginal poster, every one is telling him to do something else than what he asked.

Not true! He received several answers on what to do and then people started giving him alternative ideas which would actually work better but he just wants to hear himself talk I think.  

I agree with the orginal poster, every one is telling him to do something else than what he asked.  I use MM acrylic not sure if it was you are useing but I just soak in water and scrub with a tooth brush.  If it is oil base MEK will work.  Other house hold things include soak in Gasoline, or the undisbuted champ "Easy Off oven Cleaner"  I have never seen any paint that can stand up to easy off.  Were gloves as it will also eat skin and plastic.

 I use my empts for custom paint mixes.  Cracker barrel surpy bottles are also handy to store mixes in.

smeagol the vile wrote:

you know what, I asked a simple question, I just need the ****ing bottles cleaned, not a lecture on how im doing things wrong because it isnt' your way

You pull this crap all the time, Smeaglet..  If you don't want to do it someone else's "way", then why the hell do you even ask for help?  Think anyone's going answer you with a different "way" than their own?  That's what happens here... People tell you how THEY do it, then the freakin' ball's in YOUR court as to use it or not...  

Try the techniques given, or don't, nobody gives a sh*t either way.. It's your freakin' problem anyway, Scooter...

smeagol the vile wrote:

you know what, I asked a simple question, I just need the ****ing bottles cleaned, not a lecture on how im doing things wrong because it isnt' your way

Nobody was lecturing you, we were giving constructive ways to eliminate your problem but you obviously don't really want our help.

Go ask Google for your answers then as I will no longer expend the calories involved to type an answer to your immature ramblings! 

smeagol the vile wrote:

Ok, Ill repeat it again.  My airbrush is the type that needs the bottle attached.

Yes we knew that, that is a siphon-feed airbrush which I own 7 of and am very familiar with from my T-shirt airbrushing days. 

There are 2 adapters for it, the bottles that came with it and Model masters bottles.

OK, why do you need to use the Model Master adaptors? The bottles that came with the airbrush are all you need. Mix your paint in another container, pour it into the jars that came with the airbrush, paint your model, clean the airbrush and jar. That's it. 

The ones from Paasche and Badger both fit either airbrush.

This is what I am talking about. Also, the metal cups like Hans mentioned are the best way to go and are easy to clean. 

What airbrush do you have? 

Get some freakin' Methyl-Ethyl Ketone (Before you ask, hardware store-paint and thinner aisle) and soak the bottles in it... If that don't take it off, you'll need a hammer...  Testor's Liquid Cement is mostly MEK and will work in a pinch, but it's way more expensive per ounce than a pint of MEK..

Then get a couple metal paint cups... Unless you got some 15.00 El-Cheapo, Suzy Homemaker, POS Testor's or Badger brush, it'll take a cup...  Then you mix in the bottle and pour off into the cup to paint...

Then enroll in a Vo-Tech school and take an autobody repair course... Pay special attention during the blocks of instruction on painting... 

Or- and this is what I think you'll do anyway- continue to do things the hard way and complain that "no one gets you", and make another smart-azzed post...

This airbrush maintenence stuff ain't hard, man...

smeagol the vile wrote:

again... AAAAIIIRRR BBBRRRUUUSSSHHH

OK, translation please? Posting childish remarks is not going to earn you much respect from those here who have been airbrushing as long as you have been on planet Earth! We know it's an AIR BRUSH so what's your point? 

So......tell me, are you mixing thinner into these paints and storing them for future use which is why you need the bottles cleaned? 

smeagol the vile wrote:

it came with 2, and there in use already.

Don't you mix some paint, spray it and then clean the siphon-feed bottle when you are finished?

smeagol the vile wrote:

I getcha gerald, I have alot of stuff I could use, thing is, these model master's bottles and 10ml tamiya bottles fit the adapter I ahve for my airbrush, makeup and such dont, saddly.   That paperclip idea is good, its always the stuff in the corners I cant get with my pinkey! thanks!

Why not use the glass jar that came with the airbrush instead?

I don't see any advantage in connecting the paint bottle directly to the airbrush personally.

I getcha gerald, I have alot of stuff I could use, thing is, these model master's bottles and 10ml tamiya bottles fit the adapter I ahve for my airbrush, makeup and such dont, saddly.

That paperclip idea is good, its always the stuff in the corners I cant get with my pinkey! thanks!

After soaking, bend a paper clip, wad up a piece of paper towel and dig away.

Try soaking in full strength Simple Green.

E