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Question About Paasche Spray Booth Venting

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  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Maryland
Posted by usmc1371 on Sunday, July 12, 2009 3:30 PM

 Summit wrote:
Kizzy -  If you do not have the means to cut a board as Jesse  suggested a piece of Blue or Pink Styrofoam Insulation board will also work and it can be cut with a knife or hacksaw blade.

Ha, cool idea.  I guess my carpentry background over-complicated the matter.  Cool idea...

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Inland Northwest
Posted by Summit on Sunday, July 12, 2009 12:17 PM
Kizzy -  If you do not have the means to cut a board as Jesse  suggested a piece of Blue or Pink Styrofoam Insulation board will also work and it can be cut with a knife or hacksaw blade.
Sean "I've reached nearly fifty years of age with my system." Weekend GB 2008
  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by Kizzy on Saturday, July 11, 2009 11:48 AM
Thanks Jesse! I understand. Might be overkill for my situation, but I'll give it some thought. If you happen to have a photo, that would be great.

Cheers,
Kizzy

EDIT: I've improved the situation somewhat. First, I attached the vent dryer tube as Jesse suggested, then I went to the hardware store and bought an aluminum vent dryer adjustable elbow for $4. Attached it to the end of the tube and adjusted it so that the air flow output is flat and level (unlike before, when it was angled maybe 40 degrees upward). Now when I want to paint I'll just situate the booth so it is just about flush with the window screen and the fumes will vent straight out. Nice!
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Maryland
Posted by usmc1371 on Saturday, July 11, 2009 11:40 AM

Here's how I did my setup:

  1. Get a pine board 1" x 8" x the width of your window
  2. Get a dryer exhaust vent: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=89145-835-140147079045&lpage=none
  3. Get flexible dryer exhaust tubing: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=121560-59558-MFX48D2DZW&lpage=none
  4. Cut a hole in the pine board to fit the exhaust tubing.
  5. Atttach the exhaust vent to the outside of the pine board.
  6. Attach the dryer exhaust tube to the spray booth and the exhaust vent
  7. Open you window, put the board in the opening, close the window on top of the board.
  8. You might want to cut the length of the exhaust tube to make it shorter.
  9. You might also want to wrap the edges of the board with some foam.  The foam will seal out bad weather when airbrushing.
  10. I also put handles on the face of the inside of the board to help in removing the board from the window.

Let me know if this seems confusing.  I can take pictures of my setup if that will help.

-Jesse

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by Kizzy on Saturday, July 11, 2009 10:45 AM
Hi Jesse,

Thanks for replying. I did think about that actually, regarding possible discoloration of the screen. Wiping it down with some Windex (yes, I'm using Tamiya acrylics) is a good idea. I'll do that!

As for the vent tube, I do not presently have it attached. I can see how it might help focus the air flow more directly out the window though. Is that your method as well?

The only other thing I'm questioning is the angle of the flow. The rear of the HSSB is slanted at approx. 45 degrees. I wonder if with the dryer vent tube attached, an additional attachment could be added at the other end of the tube to level out the air for a more direct flow to the outside (instead of kind of up and out the way it is now). That way it could be pressed perfectly flat up against the screen and would have no where to go but out.

-Kizzy
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Maryland
Posted by usmc1371 on Saturday, July 11, 2009 8:05 AM

Hi Kizzy,

I got the HSSB also.  I don't think the screen will effect the force of the fan.  Over time, you might notice discoloration on the screen from paint particles hitting it.  It happened to my screen.  If you're using acrylics, you might want to wipe down the screen with an appropiate solvent after painting.  For example, if you're using Tamiya acrylics, wipe the screen down with some windex on a paper towel.  You don't building management getting on your case.

Are you using a dryer vent tube and a board with your setup?  It would help keep any fumes being blown back in.

-Jesse

  • Member since
    April 2008
Question About Paasche Spray Booth Venting
Posted by Kizzy on Saturday, July 11, 2009 7:43 AM
Hello all,

I have recently purchased a Paasche HSSB-22-16 Spray Booth. I have it situated on top of a work bench directly in front of an open window, so that the rear of the booth is pointed directly out the window to vent the fumes. The only drawback is that all of the windows in my apartment have screens on them (with a mesh very similar to the kind you'd have on your front door to keep bugs out), and they cannot be removed from the inside. Since I'm on the second floor, it's not possible to take them off. So, technically the rear of the spray booth's fan is sitting right up against the mesh of a window screen.

Does this sound like I have adequate ventilation for my spray booth? Or would the presence of a window screen too greatly inhibit the flow of air out of my apartment? Judging by the power of the fan and the size of the holes in the screen, I would think it would be fine, but I was just curious to see if anyone had an opinion about this. Note: I am spraying only acrylics.

Thanks for your advice!

-Kizzy

P.S. Cutting an opening in the screen is unfortunately not an option. :)
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