Masking woes;

Try covering the entire surface with masking tape. Tamiya do a wide 30mm reel which is ideal for this.

Then draw the camo scheme onto the tape on the model, noting key reference points, and which colour is which.

Here's the wing completely covered with the pattern drawn out.

Now having removed the tape and cut out the templates, and re-applied to the model.

I've used this technique on a number of builds as it gives a far more accurate hard edged camo pattern.

Karl

Thanks again guys. I dont have any sort of masking film or enough decent tap, so I have tired correcting some soft lines on the underside of the A/C with Maskol, & it seems to be working OK.

Online to purcahse some masking film me thinks.

I usually only use liquid mask for small things (not even canopies). It can get rather messy otherwise. A note of caution, Maskol is ammonia based (can you tell by the smell?) and will happily eat acrylic paints if applied heavily (the way it works best).A similar masking agent, Gunze's Mr Masking Sol Neo, doesn't have the offensive odour, but also eats acrylic paint if applied too heavily.

I usually use a toothpick or similar pointed implement to apply and prefer not to try brushing it on. Usually you will only get one shot at applying Maskol, as it starts to "skin" almost instantly and often lifts the edge if you attempt to overcoat it. You can't trim the edges with a blade without pulling it off the surface either.

I've tried a couple of liquid masking agents but was not really satisfied:  Hard to get a consistent edge in my opinion, plus you need to make sure its thick enough to really serve as a mask, etc etc.  Good for sharp angles (for example, wing roots) to bridge between tape masks, but not ideal for overall work.  Now canopies is another matter.  Love it for canopies as I push it right up to the frame with a brush.

Good luck!

Thanks gents, I get the impression that cut tape or paper is the way to go.

Has anyone had any sucsess with Maskol / liqiud masks, or am I barking up the wrong tree with it?

My recommendation would be Tamiya Yellow tape.  Among other things, I've done a 1/72 Spitfire and got the proper sharp demarcations.  What makes Tamiya Yellow tape superior to other tapes I've used is that it is much thinner, so that you don't get a thick edge build-up when spraying into a tape edge or any real fuzziness if spraying over a tape edge.  It is fairly flexible, so it conforms well to compound curves.  It seals well but still has low enough tack as to not lift the the underlying paint, nor does it leave adhesive residue, even if you leave something masked for a while.  For camo with all the curved edges, it cuts really cleanly.

Andy

The two most successful methods I have used are Tamiya masking tape, and Parafilm M masking film. For either one put it in place after painting your lighter color (and giving it time to dry and cure), then cut your masks to pattern shape with a new xacto blade. The parafilm M actully works better over compound curves but is a bit more challenging to use. Both remove easily.

When I've needed to do sharp edged camoflage, I just used low tac masking tape and paper masks.  For flat areas, just use paper.  You can stick it down by cutting holes as needed and applying tape over the holes.  Sorry, I don't have a picture, but I hope you get the idea.  On curved surfaces, apply tape to model, draw pattern on tape, remove tape and lay on a piece of glass, cut along pattern lines, re-apply tape to model.  You can see a model that was done this way here.  You can make the transition softer by raising the edge of the tape or paper slightly, or by running a thin roll of blue tac along the edges.

Don 

You can also try the blue low-tac masking paper if frisket doesn't work very well.  I've also found that if its too sticky wipe your hand across your forehead, rub your hands together and then onto the sticky side of the tape.  A very sharp #11 blade cuts very clean lines.

Good luck.

Chris

The demarcations on the Vulcan are razor sharp - no soft-edge transitions at all.

http://data3.primeportal.net/hangar/mark_hayward/vulcan_b.2/images/vulcan_b.2_23_of_33.jpg

what about frisket paper that should work try that

I have tried freehand (0.14mm needle/nozzle), but the demarcation is not sharp enough - even if my airbrush skills were up to it.

I cant find any close ups, but this will give you the idea;