This is just my opinion, so please take it with a grain of salt.
The Peacemaker falls into the typical box-type booth design more commonly seen in industry. Of all the booths Pace makes I like the design of this one. The problem with the booth, however, is the fan. It is rated at 265 cfm, which calculates out to about 80 or so feet per minute (fpm) given the provided face dimensions. This isn't necessarily a bad thing since recommended face velocities fall within a range of 80-100 fpm. But it's not a good thing, either. Once you install filters to the intake side, and duct work to the exhaust side, you add resistance to the airflow being moved by the fan. You not only have to pull contaminated air from the booth, you also have to push that air out the other end. The result is diminished airflow below the minimum recommendation of 80 fpm. If I'm not mistaken, fans are typically rated without the addition of filters or exhaust ducting.
So what can you do?
1. Continue to shop around for a booth of similar dimension with a higher-rated fan--or build your own. I recalculated for the Peacemaker using the provided face dimensions, and a more satisfactory fan would be rated at about 385 cfm (This is based on a 100 fpm face velocity with a "bump" of 25% to help with expected resistance.)
2. Buy the booth and try to follow a couple suggestions:
--When spraying, move your model inward at least 6" from the face edge. Do not spray from the extra "shelf" provided in front of the face. (I'm not really sure why that shelf was included as part of the overall design.)
--Obtain as "open" a filter as you can get that will still capture particulates and allow maximum airflow. Remember that a paint filter is not put in place to protect your lungs, but to protect the fan and its components from damage over time.
--Keep ductwork runs as short as possible. The longer the run, the more resistance generated. The same goes for bends. 30-degree bends aren't too bad; 90-degree bends are killers for airflow.
--Avoid corrugated ducting (like dryer hose). Each hump in that ducting creates air vortexes and induces higher rates of friction. Smooth-walled ducting is always more efficient and highly recommended.
--Give consideration to adding a plexiglas-type "sash" to your booth. Slide it upwards and insert your model, then lower it to a point where you can still insert your hands/forearms adequately to perform spraying operations. Decreasing the face area while maintaining the same fan speed increases airflow velocity and makes the booth more efficient. A sash is one of the primary features found in the use of laboratory hoods. In addition, looking through a clear sash affords some measure of eye protection.
Good luck in your booth quest. If you get the Peacemaker, I hope you find it satisfactory. Please post here with your opinions of whatever booth you purchase.
Gip