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HELP ME!!! Newbie needs tank painting advice!

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  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Rugby, England
HELP ME!!! Newbie needs tank painting advice!
Posted by Hinksy on Wednesday, September 9, 2009 6:26 AM

Hi guys,

I'm very new to to the forum & to modelling. I have just about finished construction of my first model-a 1/48 Tamiya Tiger I, it went very well for a first attempt!

I've painted it all the recommended hull colour (Tiger Grey/Humbrol 67) and the tracks a slightly different shade, all as recommended for the version I want. I'm not ready for cammo yet!

It looks nice BUT it also looks like it's just rolled off the production line! I'm planning on building a very small & basic diorama. I've got the Tiger crew ready for painting and assembly along with fuel drums etc. I have all the basic modelling kit, access to the full range of Humbrol paints, a very good hobby shop nearby, internet access and a limited budget!

I have looked into ading mud 'splatter' to the wheels by flicking a stiff bristle brush dipped in a muddy colour paint mixture of the tip of my finger and also dry-brushing.

What I want to do next is add a dusty, weathered look to my tank after adding the decals and prior to painting my tank crew.

I'd appreciate any help-please keep it basic and to the point though. I have no experience and limited resources.

Final question-should I really be building my kits in 1/35 scale? It seems to be far more popular and the larger size appeals to me.

I've just joined MAFVA by the way.

Kindest regards,

Ben Smile [:)]

On the Bench - Dragon Pz. IV Ausf. G (L.A.H.) Yes

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  • Member since
    March 2006
Posted by TD4438 on Wednesday, September 9, 2009 8:55 AM
Check out Tamiya weathering powders.You can apply them dry or wet.If ya don't like the results,just wipe the stuff off and start over.

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wherever the hunt takes me
Posted by Boba Fett on Wednesday, September 9, 2009 9:49 AM

My mud mix is an earth-colored acrylic paint, the cheap testors putty (yaknow the stuff that's almost useless for filling seams), and nail polish remover. Put a big blob of putty on a sheet of tin foil. Then dribble a bunch of paint on top. If you want grass clods, throw in some static grass too. Then pour the nail polish remover on. Not too much. You can always add more. Stir with a toothpick. This will form little clods of putty that looks exactly like mud. Take an old brush (not the expensive one you have because this is a brush-killer technique) and slop it on in the running gear, fenders, wheels, tracks, and the bottom of the hull. Look at some reference photos to find where the mud would be built up. If you want a more subtle approach, add more nail polish remover so it will be thinner and less clumpy. If you have an airbrush, do a gentle mist of the earth color on the lower hull to simulate road dust. It all depends on where the tank is being potrayed. A dirt road? A little overspray. Slogging through mud in France? Slop it on. And it all depends what you like.

 

Size to build. It's up to you! I prefer 1/72 and 1/35. I've never caught the 1/48th bug because personally, it's too small to weather effectively and too dimunitive for my display. 1/72 is very small, but the detail lends itself to all sorts of washes and drybrushing. 1/35th  lets you tin the paint, and make all those little details, and is really satisfying to look at. But if you're happy a 1/48th, continue! It's all how YOU feel. If you just hate 1/35th armor, stay small. But if you like the big stuff, move to that! There's no right and wrong in modeling when choosing your scale. Some just like different things. Hope this helps!

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Norwich, UK
Posted by Tom Jolly on Thursday, September 10, 2009 7:45 AM

Hi Ben,

There is a great article over on Armorama.com (http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=1221) that you might be interested in reading.

Probably the most common method modellers use to create a dust effect is with an airbrush (as aready alluded to). The other method is to use specialist pigments (or if you are cash-strapped a ground up artists pastel crayon). See here http://www.themodelcatalogue.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=62&cat=Weathering for a selection of weathering products available on the market.

For adding mud etc, it invariably involves using putty or filler of some sort and there are a variety of techniques including that already provided and other such as in the Armorama article.

I would agree with the comments on scale. It is totally your preference, however the one element that does tend to be a differentiating factor between the scales is price. 1:35 scale kits tend to be more expensive than 1.48 and 1:72, although they can of course take longer to build so there is an element of value for money there.

Good luck!

Tom Jolly

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wherever the hunt takes me
Posted by Boba Fett on Thursday, September 10, 2009 8:26 AM

Also, MIG productions make some GREAT mud. I've seen it, and I SO wanna buy some!

 

Also, scales, best bang for the buck, buy some of Dragon's 1/72 Armor Pro series. It does have a lot of parts, and can be fidddely, but the fit is almost perfect, and I WAY ahead of the Hasagawa kits, which cost MORE! Good luck!

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Rugby, England
Posted by Hinksy on Thursday, September 10, 2009 5:09 PM

Cheers fellas,

Great stuff-keep it coming!

 

Ben Smile [:)]

On the Bench - Dragon Pz. IV Ausf. G (L.A.H.) Yes

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  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Friday, September 11, 2009 2:28 PM
I use sheetrock mud for mud in most cases... In others, I use the real thing.. It's already the right color.. Just get some good ol' dirt and sift it to get the junk and pebbles out, add water & white glue..

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Friday, September 11, 2009 2:53 PM
 Boba Fett wrote:

the cheap testors putty (yaknow the stuff that's almost useless for filling seams)

 I actually find the Testor's Contour Putty perfect for filling in seams and ejector pin marks. It may be cheap, but it's good. Yeah it does take some time getting used to, but the end results pay off.

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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